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In making up, a lining is cut out exactly the size of the outside, run the two together on the wrong side, at the edge of the brim, and turn them; then run cotton cords between the lining and the outside, as in the Plate, and two or three are put round the edge to give it firmness: runners are also made in the crown and the patch, the latter having a cord all round it, and they are then sewed strongly together, the part, HM, fitting into BGC, and the patch into IK. A curtain, one nail and a half in depth, is put on rather full behind, and strings of the chintz, or calico neatly hemmed, or of ribbon will complete it. The size here given is for a child five years old, but it is a useful kind of bonnet for those much



PLATE 19. FIG. 4, 5, 6.

This is usually made of silk, satin, or glazed calico.

The poke or front (Fig. 5), is an oblong, which is cut two or more nails down the selvage, according to the depth desired, and of such a length (cut width-way of the material), as will be two and a half times the length from ear to ear. This oblong is hemmed at each side, and bobbins put in to draw it up: two runners are made at equal distances between to draw up. The crown or head-piece, Fig. 6, is in one piece, and is also an oblong, about one mail deeper than the poke, and a fourth longer. Make runners down each side, and three or four equal distances between.

In making up the bonnet, the poke is drawn up to the proper size, and a double piping laid round it. The crown is then formed by drawing up the first runner as close as possible, and the second sufficiently so to make it flat and circular. The remainder is drawn to the proper shape to form the head-piece, being less drawn at each succeeding runner to make it wider at the bottom. Lay on a band of silk piped at each end, and sew it firmly round, and then attach the poke to it. Next make a soft lining to the head-piece, and a circular piece of wool in muslin may be attached to the crown, to keep it in shape. A curtain and strings complete the bonnet. A quilling of ribbon round the edge, and a rosette at the side, give a greater finish.


PLATE 19. FIG. 7, 8, 9, 10.

This is a remarkably neat little bonnet; it is in four parts. The poke is a plain piece two nails and a half deep, by ten nails and a half long, sloped off at the outer edge one nail and a half at each end, it is ornamented with cotton runners, quilted or braided; cut a strip, Fig. 8, nine nails long by one mail and a half wide, which must have a runner at each edge, and the same in rows across, to give it firmness, if it is not quilted or braided; the third part is another strip sixteen nails long, and three nails and a quarter wide at the widest part, sloped off nearly to a point at each end, Fig. 10; the horse-shoe, two nails and a quarter long, and one nail and three quarters broad at the top, is lined and has a cord run all round the edge. The curtain is one nail and a half deep, put on rather full.

In making up, sew the quilted poke or front strongly to the straight strip, Fig. 8; gather the sloped strip, Fig. 10, at each edge, set it on one side into the straight piece, and on the other into the horseshoe, fulling it more in front than at the sides. Put on the curtain, and the bonnet is finished. It draws up behind to the side of the head; here it is represented as undrawn.


PLATE. 19. FIG. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is well adapted for a child's first or second bonnet, and looks well, made of coloured kerseymere or Indiana braided or worked in chain-stitch.

To cut out the poke, take a piece of paper, which when doubled is four nails long by two and a half nails wide (see Fig. 12), the doubled part from D to B, is two nails long; slope off gradually from A to E, beginning the greatest sloping at F, which is about half way down the side; the point E is one nail and a half from the corner, continue sloping to C, which is about one nail above the bottom of your paper; the curve, B C, is parallel to, or even with the curve, AFE. The head-piece, Fig. 13, is cut from a paper, which when folded is three nails long and two broad; from G to H, the doubled part, is one nail, from G to L, two nails and a quarter; cut a slightly curved line from L to K, the point K, being half a nail from the corner, next cut quite straight to J, being three quarters of a nail above the angle or corner, sweep gradually from J to H. Fig. 14 represents half the crown; D is the doubled part, and is four nails long from M to N; the part from N to O is four and a half nails, the rest from O to M, is cut like a quarter of a circle. Fig. 15 is the part that supports or holds up the crown behind, the doubled part, UP, is two nails and a half long, from U to T is two nails and a quarter, curve it gently about half a nail; from the corner to T is half a nail; from T to S is one nail and a half, S being half a nail from the side of the square; the top of R, the next vandyke is two nails in a straight line from the bottom. These vandykes are about one nail deep.

The Plate shows sufficiently clearly how this bonnet is made up, to dispense with any further description, except to say that the crown, Fig. 14, is evenly gathered into the head-piece, Fig. 13, and the back-piece, Fig. 15. The curtain is put on, strings and a small bow may be added behind.


PLATE 10. FIG. 16. 17, 18, 19.

This bonnet is very generally worn; the one represented in the Plate is for a little girl about three years old, though older and younger children would find it both suitable and comfortable; it is made of cloth, print, or nankeen, lined, and with runners in every part. It is in three pieces; to cut out the poke, Fig. 19, take a piece of paper, which, when folded in two, is four nails long and two nails and a quarter broad. D is the doubled part; from A to B is three nails, it is slightly curved; A being about one quarter of a nail from the top and half a nail from the side, next cut in nearly a straight line to C, and continue the curving to E, which is half a nail from the corner; from B to E, in a straight line, is two nails and a quarter; cut in a straight direction from E to F, the latter being one quarte of a nail above the corner; from A to F is one nail and three quarters.

The head-piece, Fig. 17, when doubled (D being the folded part), is two nails and a half long, and two nails at the deepest part, which is to go in the front, sloped off to one nail and a half for the back. The crown is merely a horse-shoe; Fig. 18 is two nails and a half long, one nail and three quarters at the top, and sloped off one quarter of a nail on each side, so as to make it only one nail and a quarter atthe bottom.

In making up, the runners may be put in simply as in the Plate, or arranged in a pattern, or the bonnet may be quilted, but there must be two or three runners round the edge, and inner part of the poke, at the top and bottom of the head-piece, and all round the horse-shoe.

Put on a full curtain of one nail and a half deep.

PLATE 19. FIG. 20, 21, 22.

This is a neat little bonnet with a stiff front, and is cut out as follows:–
For the pattern of the front, Fig. 20, let your paper, when folded in two, be three nails and a half

long, by three nails broad, it may be rounded or left square at the ends, according to fancy, D being the doubled part; this front or poke is made of stiff pasteboard.

The crown, Fig. 22, is seven nails long at the doubled part, D, and six nails long at the bottom, A B, cut in a straight line, A F, for two nails, and again straight, FE, for three nails, then round it gradually up to C.

Before making up, cut out two pieces of calico, print, silk, or other material, the size of the poke, Fig. 21, then run them neatly together at the edge, and up the ends, and slip the pasteboard in; hem the bottom of the crown, Fig. 22, A B, and up the ends, A F, for the curtain. Hem from F to E, and make a runner about half a mail within the edge up to C, through which a bobbin must be passed, and drawn up to the width of the poke; it must be sewed strongly to the outside of the front, letting the little frill lie over it, as in the Plate, forming a sort of trimming; the lining of the poke must be only turned in, and slightly tacked down, so that the pasteboard may be easily taken out when the bonnet is washed. A runner is made across the back of the crown, about two nails above FEG, through which tapes are passed: the ends of the lower ones are sewed a little way along the poke, and when the bonnet is fitted to the head, these runners are drawn to the proper size. Put on hemmed strings of the same material.

PLATE 19. FIG. 23, 24, 25, 26.

This is a school child's common bonnet, it may be made of print, gingham, or nankeen, and is in three parts. The head-piece, Fig. 24, when folded in two, is seven nails long, and three nails wide at the doubled and widest part, D, sloped off to one nail and a half at the bottom. The poke, Fig. 26, when doubled, is two nails and a half broad, by three nails and a half long, and a little rounded from A to B. Fig. 25 is the horse-shoe, two nails long, and two nails broad at the top, sloped off to one mail and three quarters at the bottom.

In making up, the front is wadded or quilted, with a cotton runner at the outer edge, and two or three at the inner edge, to give it firmness; a runner is also put in round the horse-shoe. The front of the crown is gathered evenly to the poke, the horse-shoe set in, and a curtain set on behind.

When worn, the front of the bonnet is turned up, as in the Plate.

PLATE 19. FIG. 27, 28, 29.

This is also a school child's bonnet, and may be made of any soft or washing material.

Fig. 29 represents the poke, which, when doubled at D, is three nails and a half long, by three nails wide. The crown, Fig. 28, is six nails wide at the bottom, and seven nails at its longest part, rounded off on each side; three runners are made at the bottom of it, about a nail apart.

The poke is quilted, wadded, or run with cotton, and the crown sewed to it, rather fuller in the centre in front, than at the sides; the runners are drawn up, and tied at the proper size, and upon the lower one a curtain, one mail and a half or two nails deep, is set, and extends a little on each side upon

the ends of the front or brim.


Hats and caps for young boys should be made of soft materials, similar to bonnets for little girls; as they become older, their hats must of course be stronger and stiffer; some of both sorts will here be described, as well as travelling and other caps for grown up persons. W


PLATE. 19. FIG. 30.

This is an extremely simple cap for young boys; it is made of cloth or merino, and consists of three pieces. The band, which is merely a piece of cloth half a nail deep, and sufficiently long to go round the child's head, say, eight nails and a half, or nine nails long; the head-piece, which is also about nine nails long, before being joined up, and one nail and a half deep, is made with runners in an upright direction or across the cloth at regular distances, which give a degree of firmness to the cap; the round patch or crown is about one nail and a half across, with a runner made round the edge of it. When made up, it should be lined with demet or flannel and soft calico.


PLATE 19. FIG. 31, 32.

This little hat looks very pretty made of glazed cambric muslin or of calico, either white or coloured; if wanted for winter wear, it may be made of merino, cloth, or kerseymere, plain or braided.

For the brim, Fig. 32, cut a circle five nails across, with a hole in the centre of it two nails across, for the head, a little may be sloped off from the back, or not, according to pleasure; the crown is one nail and a quarter deep, and nine nails long before it is joined up, and the circle or patch is made to fit exactly. When the hat is made of glazed calico, it is lined with the same, and runners of cotton put in, either simply or in a pattern. A strap or ribbon is attached on each side, from about halfway up the crown to about half the breadth of the brim, to keep it up and in its place. Strings are sewed at the inside.

PLATE 19. FIG. 33.

This cap is made of glazed calico, white or coloured, or of any other soft light material, with runners in it; the brim is cut in the shape of Fig. 39, it is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a halfbroad at the deepest part, sloped off as in the Plate; the crown is one nail and a quarter deep, and from eight to nine nails long before being sewed up; the circle of course is made to fit it.

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This is only a variety of the preceding cap; the brim is cut like Fig. 85, and is four nails long, and one nail deep, at the broadest part in front, sloped off at the ends; the Plate shews the way in which the runners are put in.

PLATE 19. FIG. 36, 37, 38, 39.

This is a remarkably pretty cap for an infant, after he has left off his hood; it is made of white or coloured satin, kerseymere, or merino.

The brim, Fig. 89, is four nails and a quarter long, one nail and a half deep, and sloped as in the Plate, the head-piece is a full nail deep when folded in small plaits, and eight nails and three quarters long before it is sewed up; the little flap or piece behind, Fig. 38, is about one nail deep; the longest part of it, or that to be turned up, is two nails and three quarters long; that fastened to the hat is one mail and three quarters; it is sloped at each end. The square or top of the hat, is two nails and a half every way; four other pieces must be cut one nail deep, and two nails and three quarters wide at the top, sloped at each side down to two nails at the bottom.

In making up, take a piece of buckram of the size of the head-piece, lay it upon a demet or thin wadding, and flute the kerseymere upon it, putting a fine silk cord, or a piece of coarse stay or netting silk between the flutes.

The crown must next be prepared; ornament the square according to fancy, working the pattern in spots, either in braid, or in stay or netting silk; line this also with buckram, demet, and silk, to each side of the square, sew the widest side of each of the four pieces above described, these pieces having previously been lined, as before mentioned, sew the corners of the four firmly together, inlaying a piping; the head-piece is then put on, next set on the back-piece, Fig. 38, this is lined with silk or satin, in the following manner:—After the buckram is put in, the lining is sewed to it, and not being sloped at the narrow end of the kerseymere, it allows of being fulled or plaited at the part nearest the hat. The brim is finished in the same manner, the satin lining being plain at the edge, and gathered to the head-piece; it has also demet and buckram within the lining, and is worked in a similar manner to the square, upon the front or turned up part, which is of kerseymere. Put a silk, calico, or muslin lining into the head, and a silk tassel at the left corner of the square; a satin rosette in front, and strings complete the cap.

PLATE 19. FIG. 40, 41, 42, 43.

This cap is made of cloth or Holland; the crown, Fig. 41, is fourteen nails long, and three nails deep; the band, Fig. 42, is eight nails long, and half a nail broad; the brim or edge, Fig. 43, is eleven nails long, and one nail deep.

In making up, the crown, Fig. 41, is wadded and lined, it is then gathered evenly into the band on one side, and into the small circular patch or button on the other; the band, Fig. 42, is lined with flannel as well as calico; the brim, which is wadded and lined, has a piece of buckram put within the lining, it is sewed on so as to turn up and set rather round. A tassel or bow of ribbon may or may not be added at the top, according to pleasure.

PLATE 19. FIG. 44, 45, 46, 47.

This looks neat made of Holland, with a piping of dark blue, green, or the same colour.

The top of the crown is in eight pieces, cut out of a circle, five nails across; this will make each division two nails and a half long, and two nails at the broadest part, sloped to a point, and the shape of Fig. 46. The side of the crown is in four pieces, Fig. 47; to cut these, make another circle the same size as the top, and in the centre of it cut a smaller one, two nails across, then divide the circle into four parts. The band is about one nail broad, when made up, and nine nails long, before it is joined at the ends.

In making up, sew the eight pieces together, laying a coloured piping between them, and putting a button at the top; the four sides, Fig. 47, being previously lined with buckram, demet, and glazed calico, are then each sewed to the circle thus formed, one of the sides fitting to two of the smaller pieces at the top; they must be sewed on the wrong side very firmly, and turned down, so that the stitches are not seen on the outside, the ends of these four pieces being piped, are then sewed together. The cap is now ready for the band, which, after being wadded, is stitched on, and the whole is finished.

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