is then set on, and small pieces, three nails and a quarter long and half a nail broad, are lined, piped all round, and sewed on one side of each arm-hole, so as to lay over and cover it when the arms are not in. The cloak is fastened at the throat either by long silk cords the same colour, with tassels at the ends, or by a gilt or bronze chain.

The capes of these cloaks are frequently made loose from them, in which case they may be worn separately as mantles or short cloaks; when they are fastened on, they are sewed to the shoulder-piece.

LADY'S MANTELET OR SHORT CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 22.

These are made of velvet, satin, silk, cloth, merino or shawling; they are lined with silk, muslin, or glazed calico, and trimmed with lace, fringe, velvet, satin or fur; they are very convenient and light for walking, or going out in an evening. A mantelet reaches to a little above the knee, and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes; it is made exactly like the cape of a large cloak, with five breadths in it, a little hollowed round the neck, and set into a band, or a collar turned over.

LARGE CARRIAGE CLOAK OR ROQUELAURE.

PLATE 20. FIG. 23.

Used by ladies in an open carriage, to put on in case of rain. It is made of plaid or some woollen material, and consists of five breadths of eleven nails wide, and one yard and a half long; two arm-holes are made five nails from the top of the cloak, and five nails long, to these arm-holes are sewed loose sleeves, eight nails long, and four nails wide, when sewed up; they are merely attached to the cloak by being sewed to the top of the arm-hole, so that they may be put on, or left to hang down at pleasure. The cloak is lined with flannel and glazed calico, or calimanco, it is set into a band at the neck, of about ten nails long, and a collar and one or more deep capes put on. It fastens at the throat with a gilt or bronze chain.

LADY'S NEAT GARDEN OR SERVANT'S CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 24.

This may be made either of merino or Scotch plaid; if the former, it has three breadths in it, of seventeen nails wide; if the latter, it requires five breadths, eleven nails wide.

The shoulder-piece is like Fig. 3 or 4, Plate 13; it is lined and wadded, as are also two capes the same shape as the shoulder-piece cut larger; the collar is like Fig. 7, Plate 13. The whole cloak is lined with black or coloured glazed calico; arm-holes are left between the first and second breadths; they are four nails long, and three nails and a half from the bottom of the shoulder-piece; a small piece of the material, four nails long and three quarters of a nail wide, lined and piped all round, is set on along each slit or arm-hole.

These cloaks can be purchased ready made at the mercer's shop, and are from 98. to 18s. each.

OLD WOMAN'S CLOAK AND HOOD.

PLATE 20. FIG. 25, 27.

These are generally made of scarlet cloth, or grey duffel, and have only one breadth in them. The cloth is about three yards wide, and it is cut as follows:

The width of the cloak is made in that of the material, therefore, when the proper length for the cloak is cut off the piece (say one yard and eight nails), it is doubled exactly in half the width, and then the selvages being laid together, they are sloped off at the top, perhaps from four to five nails

gradually to about four nails above the bottom; the two corners in front are also rounded off at the bottom, so that a great part of it, as well as the two fronts are slightly on the cross, which renders binding or hemming not absolutely necessary, though the cloak looks much better when finished with a neat binding of scarlet or black ribbon; the top is set into a band the proper length to go round the neck, and a few plaits are made.

When two cloaks are cut out together, which is the most economical plan, the hoods will come out of the sloping at the neck, but this cannot be, if there is only one.

The hood is very simple, and is thus formed. Cut a paper pattern of half the hood, exactly like Fig. 27, and lay it on the cloth, taking care that D is upon the doubled part of it. In making it up, it is gathered or plaited from the top, or doubled part to A; the rest to B, is simply sewed up; B to C, is the part attached to the cloak, and the front, or what goes round the face, is neatly bound with ribbon. These hoods may be lined or not, at pleasure.

SCHOOL GIRL'S CAPE OR CLOAK.

PLATE 20. FIG. 26.

These are made of plaid or other stuff, lined with flannel and calico, and are good things for school girls to wear at church and elsewhere.

The skirt of the cloak having been lined with coarse flannel and glazed calico, and the shoulderpiece being piped all round with a pretty thick piping, the skirt is plaited evenly to the shoulder-piece in handsome plaits, and the flannel being laid against it, the calico linings are neatly felled down over the plaits, so as to hide the rough edges; the collar, lined also with flannel and calico, is sewed on, and a piece of tape or strong calico laid upon the part where it joins the shoulder-piece at the top. A button is put on at the throat, on the right hand side, and another, four nails below, and small squares of plaid doubled, with each a button-hole made in them, put to correspond on the other side. By lengthening the skirt, this would make a very suitable cloak for a woman.

A more economical cloak, of this pattern, may be made of green baize; without a collar, it costs very little, but of course it does not wear nearly so well as the plaid ones.

BOY'S CLOAK.

A cloak or deep cape for a boy, may be made very simply as follows:

Cut a large circle of cloth or plaid, the size you wish the cloak to be, and in the centre of it, make a smaller circle for the neck; cut from this small circle to the edge in a straight line, which will form the opening in front. Gather or plait the neck into a broad band, and it is completed. A cloak thus made will hang in full handsome folds, and be very warm.

SHAWLS.

Shawls may be made of various materials, velvet, plush, silk, cloth, duffel, plaid, or printed flannel, and they may either be square or in the form of a half-handkerchief; they are variously lined and trimmed, according to taste and circumstances.

CARRIAGE OR DRESS SHAWL.

This is either velvet, plush, or satin, and is half a square of one yard, twelve nails, or less, to suit the figure of the person, and the width of the material. It is lined with white or coloured sarsenet, and trimmed at the edge of the two straight sides, with a satin or silk hem, from one to one nail and a half deep, cut crosswise, lace, fringe, or fur.

LADY'S WALKING SHAWL.

Silk, cloth, or merino, are equally appropriate for this purpose. It may either be a square of one yard, twelve nails, or half of it, and is lined with silk. When the whole square is preferred, and when a hem of velvet, satin, or silk is laid on, care must be taken to arrange it so that when the shawl is doubled handkerchief-wise, the hems of both folds shall be seen at the same time, one lying nearly over the other, for which purpose, after laying the border on two successive sides of the square, turn your shawl over before sewing the border of the remaining two sides on. Thus half the trimming is on one,

and half on the other side of the shawl.

These shawls, like the one mentioned above, may be trimmed in various ways.

SHAWL FOR A MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.

This is a square of about one yard, twelve nails, and is made either of fine white, or very pale drab, grey, or other quiet coloured cloth, with a satin ribbon, the same shade and one nail broad, laid on all round it. It may be lined or not, according to pleasure.

QUILTED SHAWL.

This is half a square of silk of about one yard, twelve nails, and has a very neat appearance, besides being both light and warm. It is thus made:

Lay wadding, demet, or flannel between the outside silk and the lining, which should be either white or some pretty suitable colour: it must then be run in three or four rows round the edge, and the middle quilted in diamonds, or any other pattern, according to taste.

CASHMERE SHAWL.

Purchase a piece of coloured Cashmere or Indiana, one yard, six nails square, to form the centre of the shawl, and make a very narrow hem all round it; then take shawl bordering, or four strips of Cashmere of some other colour, which will harmonize, or contrast well with the centre; these should be from two to three nails broad, and one yard, twelve nails long; they are likewise hemmed on both sides, and then sewed to the square; the corners are joined obliquely, or from point to point. A fringe should be set on all round. This coloured border must be put on, so that when the shawl is worn, the two corners shall fall properly over each other, as described in the "Lady's Walking Shawl." Coloured gimp is sometimes laid on over the joinings.

MOURNING SHAWLS.

These may be made in two ways, according to the depth of the mourning. The first and deepest kind is half a square of black silk, entirely covered with black crape, and lined with black sarsenet. The other is also a half square of rich, but not very bright black silk, with a hem of crape from one to two nails deep, laid on the two straight sides.

PLAIN WALKING SHAWL.

This may be made of plaid, printed flannel, or duffel, and is suitable for ladies, children, and

servants.

Cut half a square of the proper size, line it with silk, or calico, and run it at about one nail from the edge, on the two straight sides, so as to keep it flat, and make a sort of hem: this shawl is made to fit the neck, for this end, instead of hollowing it out, run on the cross-way part in the centre, a little string-case, in a semi-circular form, and by 'passing a ribbon through, it is drawn up to fit the neck, making a sort of frill or standing up collar. This shawl is plaited in at the bottom of the waist, and strings, or a band sewed on at the inside.

Arm-holes may also be made in it at pleasure.

TRAVELLING SHAWL.

A warm shawl or handkerchief for travelling, may be made of a square of wadding doubled in half, and covered with silk or muslin.

SPENCERS.

PLATE 20.

Spencers are made of silk, cloth, muslin, and print, and are worn with low frocks, by children, to walk out in.

PLAIN SPENCER.
PLATE 20. FIG. 28, 29.

From its simplicity, this is suited to very young children, as well as to school girls, or young servants.

In making, sew up the shoulders, make up the sleeves, and set them in, a little fulled at the top. Make a string-case at the wrist at about half or three quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve, which, when drawn, forms a frill. Gather it equally into the band or collar; for stout children, small gussets may be put in the neck. It is either hemmed or set into a band at the bottom; sometimes a frill is sewed on round the waist, sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit of a runner being put one nail above the bottom, so as to form a frill.

DRESS SPENCER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 30, 31.

This is a very pretty shape for ladies' children, but as it must be cut out to fit the figure, only one size, for a child from two to four years old, will be given. It may be made of kerseymere, cloth, cambric, or jaconet muslin.

In making up, supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin, sew a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the shoulder-piece, simply hemming that part of it which goes over the shoulder; full the body evenly into the insertion-work, both before and behind, leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes; the sleeve is next gathered into the shoulder-piece, and sewed plainly into the arm-hole; the body is next fulled into the band. In the band, on each side behind, is a little runner of about two nails from the ends, through which a bobbin is run, which comes out through an oylet-hole, at about a quarter of a nail from the end; it fastens also with a button or with hooks and eyes: up the backs of both shoulder-pieces and body a broad hem is made, in which are buttons and button-holes to correspond. The robings are next put on, a little fulled at the back and front, and a good deal over the shoulders: the robing at the back is sewed immediately below the insertion-work; it is one nail and a half deep, which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders, and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front. The collar, which is trimmed with neat work or a frill, is then set on. The sleeves are made and put in.

TIPPET AND SLEEVES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 32, 33, 34, 35.

These are very convenient for children to wear in the summer, as they are easily put off and on. They are made of jaconet or cambric muslin, gingham, or print, to suit the frock.

To cut the front, Fig. 33, let your paper be five nails and three-quarters long, and three nails and three-quarters wide, when folded in two. D is the doubled part.