Curve from L to T, again from T to V; cut from V to S; slope from S to N. The part marked N, is for the neck; S V, for the shoulder; V T, the flap or shoulder-piece.

For the back, Fig. 35, let your paper be three nails wide and four nails long.

Cut from H to A; slope from A to B; cut from B to F; curve from F to half a nail below G; N is the neck; S the shoulder.

For the little flap or shoulder-piece, Fig. 32, take a piece of paper, letting it be one nail and three quarters long, when doubled, and one nail and a half deep; at the opposite side to the doubled part, mark the point A one quarter of a nail from the side, and one third of a nail from the bottom; cut in a straight line from the top to A, and slope gradually from A to the bottom.

In making up, sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front, set in the two shoulder-flaps, fulling them in the middle, gather the front into the space of one nail, setting it into a band, which is about one-third of a nail, when doubled, and nine nails long, made to button behind; the backs are also gathered, and sewed to the band at each end, at a proper distance, say about three nails from the middle. The Plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to the band, observe, however, that the bottom, A, is to be sewed to the part marked B, of the band. On the top of the tippet is set a collar, according to fancy; Fig. 19, Plate 13, is that generally preferred. Sleeves cut according to Fig. 1, Plate 12, are then made; they are set into a band at the top, and then sewed on to the fullest part or middle, under the flap, for the space of half a nail.

These tippets may be trimmed with braid, if made of cloth or kerseymere; when they are of muslin, with narrow work or edging.

NECK HANDKERCHIEFS.

Many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress, and under the collar or habitshirt, and for those liable to be soon heated, or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments, it is a particularly good plan to do so, especially if the dress is not of a washing material, as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer than it otherwise could be. Elderly persons should always wear

Y

these handkerchiefs, as there is something delicate and cleanly in their having what will wash next the skin.

Muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased, woven for the purpose, with borders, at from about 6d. to 28., but the cheap ones are not worth buying, they soon tear in the washing, and look thick and cottony; the fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of muslin cut from the piece; these, like the bordered ones, may either be worn double, or the square may be cut in two, which most people prefer. The muslin should be yard wide, not very coarse, nor yet extremely fine, if wanted for common wear, but a thin transparent muslin should be selected; that which is called India book, having a yellowish white cast, is preferable to the blue muslins, which are apt to look heavy and clothy when washed. Real India muslin is the best, but it is too costly for general wear.

The extreme points of the half square should be cut off, or turned up, which is a good plan for the back, as it makes it stronger; and after hemming the handkerchief all round, a tape is set on behind, to go round the waist and tie in front.

For net handkerchiefs, the best width of the net is from one yard and two nails to one yard and four nails; it should be of a medium fineness, not too close, or it will lose its clearness after washing. In making net handkerchiefs, it is a good plan to run a hem of book muslin, of about half or a quarter of a nail broad, on the two straight sides, which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing; on the cross side, of course, a narrow hem is made, as the muslin would shew in the wearing, and would look untidy. The points should be cut off, and a tape sewed on behind.

Net handkerchiefs are, on the whole, more economical than muslin, as they wear longer.

POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.

These are made of French cambric, fine lawn, Scotch cambric, cotton, or silk; the former are chiefly worn by ladies, and the latter by gentlemen; lawn and Scotch cambric are used by young persons and children; cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes.

Ladies' pocket handkerchiefs are usually eleven or twelve nails square; they are purchased woven on purpose with borders. Sometimes very fine cambric may be procured eleven nails wide, which many persons prefer to the bordered handkerchiefs; these are often made with broad hems, half or three quarters of a nail deep, and a row of open veining worked at the bottom of the hem, or a narrow edging of lace is sewed all round.

Cambric handkerchiefs for gentlemen are larger than those for ladies, say fourteen or fifteen nails. Gentlemen's silk handkerchiefs should be of India silk, and are about 5s. 6d. each; they are far preferable to British silk, as they are much softer, and keep the dye to the very last. British silk handkerchiefs should be dipped in gall the first time they are washed. Printed cotton handkerchiefs, for poor children, may be bought at a penny and even a halfpenny each.

BRIDAL FAVOURS.

The customs respecting favours and bridal paraphernalia differ so much in different places, that no general rules can be given respecting them.

Sometimes white ribbons, gloves, and handkerchiefs are given, and sometimes only the former. Favours for the higher orders are usually of lace, flowers, silver ribbon, or cord, and those for the middling classes, of satin ribbon; they are worn on the left side. The usual quantity given to servants, both men and women, coachmen, &c. is three yards, which is worn as a trimming for either the cap or bonnet by the women, and made up into very large bows for the men, to pin on their coats.

SHOES AND SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20.

No shoes will be here described but such as are soft, and therefore easily made at home, or those worn by children.

Slippers may be made of velvet, silk, cloth, kerseymere, carpet, wrap-rascal, or frieze, and worked canvass, any of these materials, together with ticking, having a pattern worked on it, may be used for children's shoes.

Cut a paper pattern of half the shoe, as follows, according to the size required. Fig. 42.

Cut from I to A, and again from A to B; curve from B to C, cut from F to H; H to G being only a slit; cut off from G to I; from I to A is the doubled part.

MEN'S SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 42.

These may be made of carpet, cloth and frieze, or wrap-rascal.

In cutting them out, the material should be doubled at D; these slippers should be lined with flannel, and either silk or cloth; the linings are tacked to the outside, and the three bound together all round with silk ferreting or binding; the sole is of strong leather or pasteboard, if the latter, it is put between two pieces of carpeting or cloth, as no needle is strong enough to go through it, and the edges of these pieces being bound round, the sole thus formed is attached to the slipper.

It is, however, better in general that men's slippers should be made by a shoe-maker, as it is hard work for women.

LADIES' SLIPPERS.

There are many neat and ornamental ways of making ladies' slippers, or toilette shoes; the following are the most generally approved :

Canvass, worked in tent or cross-stitch, silk, jean, or print quilted, cloth, or soft leather, braided or embroidered.

Care should be taken that the braid is very fine and flat; gold or silver twist may be sewed at the edge of it, which improves the effect very much.

When made up, these slippers should be lined with flannel, or wadding, and silk, and bound round with silk binding or galloon. A pasteboard sole, put between two pieces of thick cloth, or carpet, is bound round, and sewed to the upper part of the shoe, and a warm lining of flannel, or fleecy hosiery, put upon it, on the inside. A trimming of fur is sewed round the edge.

QUILTED SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 43.

Some of these are made of strong silk, with a silk lining and soft flannel between; they are quilted all over in vandykes, octagons, or diamonds.

Some are made so as to wash, and look very well, if the material is of blue, or any lively coloured print or jean. They should be lined with flannel and good strong calico; the whole is then quilted together, with thread or coloured silk. The initials of the owner may be worked in button-hole or chainstitch, on the top or side of the slipper; it is slit down in the front, for about three-quarters of a nail, and the two sides of the slit, as well as the whole shoe, bound with ribbon; purple galloon is the best, if it suits the prints, as it washes well.

A string is made to draw from about the middle of each side, which ties in the front.

LADIES' SLIPPERS.
PLATE 20. FIG. 44, 46, 50.

This slipper is in two parts, the back and the front, which is by some persons considered an advantage, and it certainly enables it to be cut out with more economy. Fig. 44 represents the back-piece when doubled.

Cut from B to C, from C to E, from E to F, and from G to H.

This shoe is made like those described before, excepting that, being in two pieces, the ends of the back-piece, SS, Fig. 44, are bound as well as the top and bottom of it, and the corresponding parts, EF, of Fig. 46, being bound also, they are sewed together very securely with strong silk.

TRAVELLING OR OVER SHOES.

These are useful to wear on a journey, or to put over dress shoes, to keep the feet warm in going out to dinner, &c. They are very easily made.

Cut out the shape of the slipper (see Fig. 42), in frieze or wrap-rascal, and also a lining of soft flannel, and of silk; tack the linings to the outside, and then bind them round with silk-ferretting the colour of the wrap-rascal; make a sole of the material, bind it also round, and sew them altogether; then cut out a sole of strong millboard,which must be covered with thick flannel, and as this is too hard for the needle to pass through, it must be tied down within the sole of the slipper, by means of a halfpenny ribbon passed through holes made at the toe and heel, which must be so contrived as to secure it effectually.

LADY OR GENTLEMAN'S HALF SLIPPER.

PLATE 20. FIG. 45.

There is also a manner of making a slipper by merely sewing on a front to a sole, and leaving it without any back-piece at all, as shewn in the Plate.

CARRIAGE SLIPPERS.

PLATE 20. FIG. 49.

These are particularly desirable for invalids, especially on long journies. They consist of a mat, or small rug, either of sheep-skin, or worked in rug-stitch; upon this are sewed two large morocco shoes, without soles, which are lined with soft flannel, or fleecy hosiery, and trimmed round the top with fur, the rug itself acting as soles to the slippers, which should be large enough to admit of any person's foot.

BABY'S FIRST SHOES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 51, 52, 53, 54.

These look very well made of crimson cloth, with soles of black cloth, or they may be of silk or satin, quilted. The shoe is in two parts, each of which is lined with flannel, and bound with crimson ribbon, which is stitched on very neatly; between the cloth and the flannel of the sole, is laid one of pliable leather, to give it a little firmness. The front part, Fig. 51, is first sewed on to the sole (see Fig. 54), after which, the back, Fig. 52, is put on, and being so cut as to overlap the front, oylet-holes are made at A, Fig. 54, and at E, Fig. 52, through which a ribbon is passed, which serves at once to tie the shoe, and to keep the front and back of it together; the sides not being sewed up at all.

BABY'S SECOND SHOES.

PLATE 20. FIG. 47.

This is made of soft velveteen, strong jean, or thick cloth, lined with fine calico. It is cut all in one piece, as follows:-let your paper for the pattern be two nails and a half long, and one deep.