them, and leaving them to dry in the sun; on washing the places with water, and very often, with brushing alone, the spots will disappear.

No. 22.

TO TAKE OUT MILDEW.

Mix soft soap with powdered starch, half as much salt, and the juice of a lemon. Lay it on the mildewed part, on both sides, with a brush. Let it lie on the grass day and night till the stain

comes out.

No. 23.

TO TAKE OUT IRON MOULDS.

Rub them with sulphuret of potash; then bathe them well with citric acid (lemon acid), afterwards wash the places well in water, and the linens will be completely restored.

No. 24.

TO REMOVE PAINT SPOTS FROM SILK, &c.

Apply spirits of turpentine repeatedly, when the article is silk.

If it is muslin or linen, cover it with butter, and then wash it.

No. 25.

TO CLEAN SILKS AND COTTONS WITHOUT INJURY TO THEIR COLOUR OR TEXTURE.

Grate two or three raw potatoes into a pint of clean water, and pass the liquid through a sieve, when it has stood to settle, pour off the clear part, and it will be fit for use.

in

Dip a clean sponge in the liquid, and apply it to the silk till the dirt is well separated, then wash it pure water.

The coarse pulp of the potatoes which does not pass the sieve, is of great use in cleaning worsted curtains, carpets, and other coarse goods.

No. 26.

TO WASH BLACK SILK AND CRAPE.

Warm some small beer, and mix some milk with it, then sponge the silk with this liquid, and it will freshen the colour very much.

A strong decoction of fig-leaves, a little gin, or spirits of wine, will have an equally good effect.

No 27.

TO RESTORE RUSTY SILK.

Boil some green tea in an iron pot, nearly a cup full of tea to three quarts of water. Sponge the silk with it, and iron it while damp.

No. 28.

TO CLEAN BOMBAZINE.

Use the liquid mentioned, No. 25, and sponge the bombazine with it, and then with water, remembering to rub width-wise, not selvage-wise, or the bombazine will be frayed.

メ

No. 29.

COMPOSITION FOR RESTORING SCORCHED LINEN.

Boil to a consistency two ounces of fuller's earth, half an ounce of cake soap, and the juice of two onions, in half a pint of vinegar. Spread it over the damaged part, and suffer it to dry on, then give it one or two washings, and if the scorching is not so great as to injure the threads, the part will appear white and perfect.

No. 30.

TO CLEAN CALICO FURNITURE.

Shake off the loose dust, and slightly brush it with a small long haired brush; after which, wipe it with clean flannels, and rub it with dry old bread. If well done, the furniture will look nearly as well as at first.

Bran is also an excellent cleanser.

While furniture remains up, it should be preserved as much as possible from sun and air, which injure delicate colours; the dust may be blown off with bellows.

Boil two pounds of rice in two gallons of water till it is soft, when the whole is poured into a tub fit for use.

Wash the chintz till it is quite clean in soap and water, and then rinse it in the rice water, which will act like starch. In drying, it must be hung very smoothly, and rubbed with a glazed stone, but not ironed.

An upper crust of bread or bran, are very good for cleaning also.

No. 32.

TO SCOUR CARPETS.

Shake the carpet well.

Dissolve one ounce and a half of alum in a quart of warm water, also one ounce and a half of fuller's earth in another quart of warm water, put a little of each into a bucket full of soft water, adding a very little gall, and rubbing in some common brown soap. Then wash a small piece of the carpet with a flannel dipped in this mixture, so as to make it rather wet, and to shew the colour, brush it over with soap, which must be well washed off, and the carpet rubbed over with a coarse cloth. Then wash it over without soap, and with water in which alum, gall, and fuller's earth are mixed, and rub it as dry as possible with a cloth. When the whole carpet is washed over in this manner, piece by piece, it will appear as fresh and bright as a new one. The quantities here given are sufficient for a large sized carpet.

If a carpet is not very much soiled, it may be cleaned by being first well shook and beaten, and then scoured with gall, and soap and water, after which, it must be laid on the grass, or hung up to dry.

No. 33.

TO WASH SILK HANDKERCHIEFS.

These must be first washed in cold water, and the second lather must be only lukewarm, then rinse them in cold water, dry them gradually, and send them to the mangle.

No. 34.

TO WASH COLOURED MUSLINS, PRINTS, &c.

Coloured muslin, washing silk handkerchiefs and aprons, should have a little spirits of wine in the water, about a dessert spoonful to a gallon.

For prints, a little gall will fix the colours; if the principal colour is lilac, pearl ash put in the water will refresh it. If green prevails, put in a few half pence.

No. 35.

TO MAKE LINEN WHITE THAT HAS TURNED YELLOW.

Heat a gallon of milk over the fire, and scrape into it one pound of cake soap, when it is quite dissolved, put the linen in, and let it boil some time, then take it out, put it into a lather of hot water, and wash it properly out.

No. 36.

TO MAKE LINEN WASHED IN THE TOWN AS PURE AND WHITE AS THAT WASHED IN THE COUNTRY.

In great towns where linen cannot be exposed to the air and sun upon the grass, let it be steeped for some time before it is washed, in a solution of oxmuriate of lime; let it then be boiled in an alkaline lye. Linen or cotton thus treated, will not become yellow from age, as is too often the case with town washed linen.

No. 37.

TO WASH CHINA-CRAPE SCARFS, &c.

Make a strong lather of soap and boiling water, suffer it to cool, and when nearly cold, wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly; dip it immediately afterwards into cold hard water, in which a little common salt has been thrown, to preserve the colours; rince, wring and hang it out to dry in the open air; pin it at the extreme ends to the line, so that it may not be folded together in any part. The more rapidly it dries the clearer the colour will be.

No. 38.

TO WASH BLONDE.

If the blonde be very narrow, it should be slightly run to the edge of either net, or old tulle, in order to make it easier to iron, tack it together in the same way that lace is done, in a length of three or four nails, and wash it clean, in a light lather of white soap and water; then put it into a bason in which there is powder blue mixed with cold water, of a sufficiently deep colour to remove the yellow tinge of the soiled blonde.

The iron should be getting ready whilst the blonde lies in the blue water, which must be a few minutes, and it must only be taken out piece by piece, to be pulled out and ironed whilst it is still damp. The iron must be moderately warm.

The tulle, which is spoiled by the washing, is then taken off, and the blonde will be found to have a brightness similar to new.

The following is another method, which has been found to answer equally well:

Tack the blonde together as before; prepare a lather of fine white soap and hot soft water, in which a little powder blue is mixed. Dip the blonde into this hot water, and squeeze it in the hand, so that

it shall be wetted through and through, it should not be allowed to remain in the water, lest the blue should settle upon it unequally. When the colour is restored, take it out, and clap it between the hands, while still folded, until it is nearly dry, when it must be opened out, and ironed with a moderately hot iron.

No. 39.

TO WASH LACE.

The best methods of washing fine, and valuable lace, are as follows:

Take a pint bottle (which is better than a larger one, being more easily held), wrap a piece of clean muslin or linen round it, and fasten it with a few stitches, then wind the lace round the bottle, avoiding the neck, and wash it in a light lather of white soap and water.

When it appears clean, rinse it in fresh water, and put the bottle in the sun, or in a warm room, to dry the lace.

On taking it off, pull it out with the first and second finger and thumb, taking care not to tear it, at the same time to pull it open to its full width; then lay it between the leaves of a blank book, or pieces of thin card board, not allowing one piece to fold over another, and put it under a weight, till it is properly pressed.

The soap should be cut in thin slices, and boiled in the water, to make the lather; this is particularly adapted to Mechlin lace.

The following plan is chiefly useful for Valenciennes or Lisle lace, or for the borders of infants' caps. Fold the piece of lace evenly backwards and forwards (not round and round), the length of about three or four nails, and when done, tack it together down the middle with long loose stitches; then wash it thoroughly in a lather of white soap and water, rinsing it repeatedly, and squeezing it in clear water, then, while still wet, dip it in a mixture ready prepared of beer and water in equal quantities, let it remain about a minute, and then wring it out.

It must now be unstitched, and pulled out two or three times, until nearly dry, this must be done width-wise of the lace, and very thoroughly. Lay it on a table covered with a linen cloth, and glaze it with a glass calender, or, if one is not at hand, with a glass phial bottle.

The beer gives the creamy colour of new lace, and a little stiffness besides; some persons dip it in water, in which they put a little snuff tied up in a muslin bag, to colour it, instead of the beer. Starch should never be put into lace, as it tears and spoils it.

No. 40.

TO WASH KID GLOVES.

Kid gloves, if they are good ones, and have never been touched by Indian rubber, may be washed so as to look like new, in the following manner; and some will bear the operation more than once; it answers equally well both for white and coloured gloves.

Lay the gloves on a clean towel, and with a piece of flannel dipped in warm water with a good deal of white soap, rub them thoroughly till all the dirt is removed; take care to use as little water as possible. Hang them up to dry gradually, at a distance from the fire, and the next morning, they will appear shrivelled and yellow, pull them out the cross way of the leather, and they will soon resume their colour and shape.

No. 41.

TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN SHOES.

Rub them with stale bread. Or rub them with a piece of new flannel dipped in spirts of wine.

No. 42.

TO KEEP BLONDE, WHITE SATIN, SILK, &c.

The above, and all articles which are apt to be discoloured by lying by, should be wrapped up and covered with the coarsest brown paper, as the turpentine contained in it, is an effectual preservation.

No. 43.

TO DYE GLOVES LIKE YORK-TAN OR LIMERICK.

Put some saffron into a pint of soft water boiling hot, and let it infuse all night; next morning, wet the leather all over with a brush.

The tops should be previously sewed up, to prevent the colour getting in.

No. 44.

TO DYE WHITE GLOVES TO PURPLE.

Boil four ounces of logwood, and two ounces of rock alum, in three pints of soft water, till it is half wasted; strain, and let it stand till cold. Then wet the gloves all over with a brush dipped in this mixture, and repeat it when dry.

Twice is sufficient, unless the colour is to be very dark. When dry, rub off the loose dye with a coarse cloth, beat up the white of an egg, and rub it over the gloves with a sponge. The hands will be stained in the process of dyeing, but wetting them with vinegar before they are washed, will take it off.

No. 45.

WASH FOR LEATHER GLOVES.

If you wish to have your gloves quite yellow, take yellow ochre; if quite white, pipe-clay; if between the two, mix a little of each; if dark, take rotten stone and fuller's earth.

By a proper mixture of these, you may produce any shade you desire; mix the colour you fix on with beer or vinegar, not water, and apply it to the gloves, having previously washed them, let them dry gradually, rub and pull them out cross-wise.

After applying the mixture equally all over, let them dry very gradually, not in the sun or near a fire, lest they should shrink. Rub and pull them out before they are quite dry.

No. 46.

TO DYE COTTON A NANKEEN COLOUR.

Keep old nails and rusty iron for fifteen days in good vinegar; apply this dye to the cotton with a brush, it will give an excellent colour, which improves by washing.

No. 47.

TO DYE THE LININGS OF FURNITURE BUFF OR SALMON COLOUR, ACCORDING TO THE DEPTH
OF THE HUE.

Rub down on a pewter plate two pennyworth of Spanish annatto, and then boil it in a pail of water a quarter of an hour. Put into it two ounces of pot-ash, stir it round, and instantly put in the lining; stir it about all the while it is boiling, which must be five or six minutes; then put it into cold pump water, and hang the articles up singly without wringing; when almost dry, fold and mangle it.