Fold the body in two, and, after measuring 1 nail from the edge, cut out the arm-holes, which are 1 nail across, and nail deep. Slope off, both at the top of the back and at the bosom, about a of an inch, to make it set better. The lining is next cut out, and both are run neatly together, the wrong side outwards, near the edges, along the sides and top, and round the arm-holes: when done, turn the body inside outwards, and flatten it between your finger and thumb, so as to make it lie flat. Afterwards back-stitch it, in beautifully even stitches, all round the top and sides, at a little distance from the edge. Sew on the shoulder-straps and tapes, putting three on each side; those on one side to be set close to the edge, and the other three at about half a nail's distance from it. The skirt is about 14 nails or a yard long: the two breadths are sewn together, and the pocket-hole torn in the middle of the back breadth about 2 nails. The bottom is bound, as also the pocket-hole, and the skirt set in the body in regular small plaits at the sides, leaving it plain in the middle for about 2 nails.

ANOTHER CHILD'S DAY FLANNEL.

PLATE 3. FIG. 13.

This pattern is intended for children of six to ten years, previous to their wearing stays. The body is made of fine jean, and lined with calico; pieces of cord or bobbin are placed between the two in rows, and fastened in by the needle, running the body and lining together between each two rows. Rows of cord may be thus run in various patterns, and, if neatly done, look very pretty.

The Plate is a sufficient guide for cutting out the body, without further description. The skirt should be set in plaits in the middle, and towards the ends. The shoulder-straps should also be of jean.

INFANT'S FLANNEL BAND.

PLATE 3. FIG. 12.

Infants require great warmth and support round the stomach and hips, and for that purpose, wear flannel bands for the first ten or twelve months.

Cut the flannel down the selvage 14 nails long, and 2 nails wide. It should be exactly 15 nails in width, to enable you to cut out six without waste.

Herring-bone very neatly the top and bottom, and herring-bone a deep hem of a nail (see A) at one end, and a narrow one (see D) at the other; then make two large plaits in the middle, to reduce the length to 11 nails (see B C). These plaits will be about half a nail deep, and should fall one on each side of the middle, and be herring-boned down. The three strings on each side to be sewn as seen in the Plate; those of the one side to be put at 3 nails from the end.

INFANTS' FLANNEL PILCHERS OR SAVERS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 9, 10.

Infants often wear pilchers or savers, put over their napkins, to prevent their clothes from being wetted. They are made as follows:

Cut a piece of flannel 11 nails square, fold it in half, and cut it crosswise, A B: it will make two pilchers. It must next be rounded off a little at the two corners, A B, and at the third corner, E, (which, observe, is opposite the cross-way of the flannel,) sew on a piece of calico, in which cut a button-hole. The crossed part, A B, is then neatly plaited into a calico band, 1 nail deep, when doubled, and 8 nails long, and a button and button-hole sewn on at the ends. In putting it on, first button the band round the waist in front, bring the corner between the legs, and button it to the same button.

INFANTS' NAPKINS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 11.

Babies napkins should be made of soft diaper, or, if for the poor, old sheeting, table-linen, or strong fine linen answers well. Choose your material exactly 10 or 20 nails wide. Napkins are generally made by cutting the diaper in lengths of 20 nails, and doubling each length in two. Sew nearly all round the doubled piece, taking care to turn the raw edges outwards instead of inwards, as usually done, because the napkin is turned inside out, when it is sewn all round, with the exception of a space large enough to admit the hand, to enable it to be turned. This opening is afterwards neatly sewn up with small stitches. It is essential that the seam or outer edge of napkins should be as smooth and soft as possible, on account of the tender skin of infants: it is very desirable to soak and scald the material often before it is used. Two strings and a tape loop may be added, to be used instead of a pin, to fasten it on.

ANOTHER MODE OF MAKING NAPKINS.

The pieces, when cut off, should be merely hemmed like towels, and, when used, are doubled and put on as the others. The grand advantage of this simple sort is, that when there is but one baby, they come in, after nursery use, for towels and other purposes, whereas the others are comparatively useless.

INFANT'S NIGHT-GOWN.
PLATE 3. FIG. 14, 15.

Night-gowns are generally made of calico or dimity, and sometimes of fine twilled muslin. The calico are most frequently used, but the dimity look the prettiest; they, however, often split, and are not so durable as the former.

This pattern is the one usually adopted by ladies for infants: it requires great neatness in the making up, to look well.

Let your material be about a yard wide, and cut two breadths of 18 nails long each. Fold each breadth very evenly down the middle, and at one end stick a pin, exactly 2 nails from the selvages. Crease the stuff from this point to about a nail from the bottom, and cut off the gore. These gores come in for the two bands and wristbands. The former are each 10 nails long, and 1 nail deep; the wristbands are 2 nails wide, and, when double, are nail deep: they should be nicely rounded at one end. The sleeves are cut in the shape and to the size of Plate 4, Fig. 15.

After sewing up the seams, the neck and arm-holes are formed The shoulder is a little sloped, and is 14 nail long. The arm-holes are a little curved, and 13 nail deep. The bosom and back are hollowed, and the slit behind is 3 nails deep.

Procure a piece of strong insertion-work, 2 nails long, and of a nail deep.

In making it up, first hem the neck of the gown, and, at 3 of a nail below the bosom, run the finest gathers possible, leaving a space of 11⁄2 nail on each side, between the end of the gathers and the sleeve. The gown is again gathered across, about a nail below the first gathering, and then the insertion muslin is very neatly sewn on the gathers, with very small even stitches; the two bands are next stitched, one at each end of the insertion-work, and are rounded off at the ends. A narrow frill of lawn is put round the bosom. The sleeves are fulled at the top, and set in; they are either merely hemmed to admit a tape, and a lawn frill sewn on them, or are put into wristbands, which should

button over.

Instead of putting in insertion-work, some bias it at the waist, which is thought to make it wear better.

Fig. 14 represents the front, and Fig. 15 the back of the gown.

ANOTHER INFANT'S NIGHT-GOWN.

PLATE 3. FIG. 16, 17.

The skirt of this pattern is cut out exactly like the one before mentioned, but is made up in a more simple manner. The gown, instead of being gathered in front, is left loose, and a strip of calico, a nail deep, is sewn on in the inside, about of a nail deep from the bosom, and of such a length as to leave, on each side, but two nails space between it and the arm-holes. This piece of calico is to be used as a string-case, and two small slits for tape-holes must be cut in the gown, at about a of a nail distance, within each end of the strip. The tapes should be rather broad, and each, on being drawn by a bodkin through its slit, should be carried along the string-case and firmly fastened down to the opposite end, so that, on pulling the two strings, the gown is drawn up in neat gathers, forming a body. The sleeves are cut down the selvage instead of crosswise, and are nearly straight, the top being 4 nails wide, and the bottom or wrist, 2 nails. A small frill may be put on the bosom and wrists; or, if it is a coloured gown for a poor child, a small runner to admit a bobbin, at the distance of the width of a narrow frill from the edge, will, on being drawn up, form a very neat frill both for the bosom and sleeves.

ANOTHER INFANT'S NIGHT-GOWN.

This sort is only used by the poorer classes. It is made of coloured print or soft calico, and is cut out exactly after the pattern of the flannel bed-gown (see Plate 3, Fig. 4). The frills are formed by making runners near the edge of the neck and wrists.

INFANTS' PINAFORES.

PLATE 3. FIG. 18.

Pinafores are made of diaper, Holland, linen, or print. The former are for ladies' infants-the latter for the poor. The patterns vary according to sex and age. The one generally used at first is as follows:

Procure your material exactly the proper width for the pinafore, to prevent waste.

After cutting off

the pieces of the proper length and width for the pinafores, take one piece and fold it down the middle,

length-wise, in two; then again fold it, and cut the slits for the arm-holes by a thread. Pin it carefully together, still folded in four, whilst you hollow out the neck, leaving the proper space for the shoulders. Hem it at the top as you would a shift, by turning down the hem, and then turning it backwards, the more readily to hold it while you sew the hem firmly all round. The arm-holes should have narrow hems, and be very firmly sewed at the bottom, or they will tear. Whip and sew on the frills, hem the bottom, sew on the tapes, and the pinafore is completed. Some people put gussets in at the shoulder: and it is better to do so for elder children.

For further sizes, see School Girl's Pinafore.

PINAFORE WITH LAPPETS.

PLATE 3. FIG. 19.

This shape is very much used by the poor, as it protects the sleeves. The pinafore is cut out exactly as in Fig. 18; but instead of putting on frills, little capes or lappets are substituted. These capes are cut width-way of the size, according to the Scale.

The cape is rounded off towards the ends, and, after being neatly hemmed, is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole, making the ends come under the arm. In front, the pinafore is confined with a band, which is stitched firmly on in two places before, and which, passing round the waist, buttons behind.

THE WASTE-NOT PINAFORE.

PLATE 3. FIG. 20, 21.

This is a particularly simple shape, being cut without any waste whatever.
Divide the pinafore in four, and cut it according to the Plate.

Cut from A to D, by which means a shoulder-flap is made, and, when on, the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity of hollowing out the neck. A double plait should be sewn under the arm-hole (see Fig. 21, A). This cape, being plain, is improved by an edging of work, or a little braid, to add lightness to its appearance.

A BABY'S DRESS PINAFORE OR TIDY.
PLATE 3. FIG. 22.

Intended to be worn when the child's frock is tumbled or untidy. It is made of cambric or jaconet muslin. There are two breadths in it of 14 nails wide-one breadth in front, and the other cut in two,

and sewn on each side. The arm-holes are made in the seams, and frilled round, or lappets sewn on. At the top in front, from shoulder to shoulder, the pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem, and secured to the proper size. The front is biassed into a band of insertion-work, to go partly round the waist. The back is drawn by a string at the top, and again below by a string-case. The front may be either simply biassed once into the band, or it may have three or four rows of biassing. Round the top is an edging of work, or a frill.

Petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, or fine calico, and should be about 14 nails wide. The skirt is 2 breadths in width, and cut to the length required, after allowing for the deep hem or tucks. They are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and poor.

In cutting out the body, double the strip in two, and again in half, so as to be folded exactly in four, and cut out the arm-holes according to the depth and width wanted, as seen by the Scale. The sleeves are cut out according to the pattern in Plate 4, Fig. 12 or 13; the shoulder-straps are cut out, and the body is ready for making up. Hem it along the top, sufficiently wide to admit a tape, stitch on the shoulder-straps, sew and hem the sleeves, and gather them into the shoulder-straps. The body should have rather wide hems at the two ends, and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape. Full the body in front, and sew it firmly to the skirt (which should be previously gathered), making it lie pretty evenly all round. The top strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only, and another string may be run in the front to draw it, and tie on one side.

INFANTS' FROCKS,

PLATE 4,

Are generally made of jaconet muslin, twilled muslin, and print, sometimes of nankeen, jean, Holland, merino, cloth, stuff, and silk.

and, when the children are older, Those for the poor are usually of