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up the selvages. Next double the shift in half its length, from A to B, and put in pins to mark the crease in the middle, C C. Unfold the shift and double it again very carefully the width way, so as to let the four selvages lie very evenly one upon another. Measure from the top, B, the space, BD, to be cut off, crease the linen in a straight line, from D to C, and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses of cloth. The gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed on to the bottom, to widen the skirt. The dotted lines in the Plate shew the width of the cloth, and the dark clear lines are intended to represent the shape of the shift. When the gores are sewed in, shifts are generally hollowed out at the back, and may either be also hollowed in front or have a flap cut, as seen in Fig. 2. The hollowing at the back is not so deep as in the front, therefore, great care must be taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other; and in order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond, it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in paper, to lay the paper on the linen, and cut by it. When the breadths are cut separately, as in some cases they must be, the seams on the shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before being hollowed. If the flap in front is preferred, it may either be cut straight down, as in Fig. 2, or in a slanting direction, as the shoulder in Fig. 6. This last plan is usually followed, and a button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap, which, being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays, neatly confines all straps, &c., in the fold.

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There is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift, and, from its simplicity and economy, is preferable to any other. The shoulder-straps are cut separately from the skirt, which is, consequently, cut shorter, and is made quite straight at the top. The shift, after being gored or crossed, has little bosom gores put in front. The top is then hemmed, both before and behind, and the straps put on. A neat frill may be added, to give a finish to the whole.

The sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths of the skirt, when the material is a little too wide; but unless you have linen of an awkward width by you, it is a wasteful plan, as the strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required for the sleeves. Observe, if this plan be adopted, to cut off the length for the sleeves all in one piece, and not length by length from each separate breadth, as much waste would arise from so doing. If the sleeves are to be made as in Fig. 2, they may be cut in one length, sleeve and gusset together, down the selvage (see Fig. 17, 18, 19), and so many lengths in the width of the cloth. If they are to be made according to Fig. 6, an extra nail in length must be allowed for the plaiting. The gussets are

reduced in size, according to the Scale, and a band to gather the sleeve into, at the bottom, is neatly stitched.

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Before crossing a shift, sew the 2 breadths or the 1 breadth, whichever it happens to be, together, and next, after flattening the seams with your thumb nail, crease the skirt, so that these two seams shall lie exactly one upon the other, and tack or pin them firmly together; or, to give a neater effect, the seams are brought, one in front and the other behind, so as to divide it in exact thirds. Fig. 4 represents the skirt when sewn up, A A being intended for the seam. Measure off 14 nails at the left hand of the top B D, and on the right hand of the bottom BD of the skirt, and double it from D to D, as in Fig. 5; and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate, it is better to double it again upwards, at X and Y, so that B D at the bottom, should lie upon B D at the top, and the corner Cupon C, as in Fig. 3. If they do not exactly correspond, the shift is not correctly folded. After pressing these creases with the hand, unfold C from C, as it was before (see Fig. 5), and cut evenly from D to D. The skirt must then be turned. The two wide ends are for the bottom-the two narrow ones for the top of the shift.

It is made up as follows:-After sewing and felling the seams, and hemming the bottom, the hem at the top must be turned down, as if for hemming, and then turned back again and sewed all round, which is much stronger than a common hem. The sleeves are generally set in plainly, excepting, of course, in those intended to be full, as in Fig. 6.

CHILD'S SHIFT.

PLATE 6. FIG. 9, 10, 11.

This is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to any age, and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen.

As these shifts consist of 1 breadth of 9 yards long, an even number, as 2, 4, or 6, should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste.

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Two gores, of 24 nails at the top, and of a nail at the bottom, are cut off the whole breadth (see Fig. 9), which reduces the body to 8 nails at the top, and 11 at the bottom, which is the proper width of the shift. These gores are sewn on to the half-breadth, which makes it exactly correspond with the other side. After sewing the two halves together, leaving 23 nails from the top for the arm-holes, cut down the slits for the bosom flaps 2 nails deep, leaving 1 nail space for the shoulders. Next, cut out the sleeve flaps (see Fig. 11) of 14 nail deep, and 3 nails long, and, after hemming them all round, sew them with firm small stitches to the shoulder. At the edge, B, sew on a piece of tape, in which make a button-hole, which buttons over the shoulder to the button, K, and confines all straps, as seen in the sleeve marked A, in Fig. 11, where the flap is represented as turned back over the shoulder, as it is when worn; whereas in the sleeve, marked B, the flap is unturned. The sleeves are hemmed all round, and then one end is turned up to form the gusset, to one side of which the other end of the sleeve is sewn, as in Fig. 17, 18, 19; they are then put plainly into the arm-hole, which must be previously hemmed.

The lining is put in last, and is turned down once a deep fold, all round. It is neatly felled inside to the shift. The lining is 7 nails long, and 13 nail wide. It is sewn in a little below the arm-hole, and carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side of the shift. Strings are sewn to the points of the flaps, both before and behind. Children's sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder. The work should be close and strong. The flaps are sometimes made of fine lawn, edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin, and allowed to lie over the shoulder, outside the dress, which has a clean and neat appearance.

A SECRET WORTH KNOWING.

HOW TO SAVE ONE SEAM AND TWO FELLS IN MAKING UP TWO SHIFTS.
PLATE 6. FIG. 12, 13, 14, 15.

This is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home. It is done as follows:Take 3 breadths of the wide-width cloth, and sew them all together like a bag; then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other, and either pin or tack them firmly together; fold the whole piece in half, width-wise, so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon one another. Cross it like a common shift, Fig. 15, measuring it top and bottom to see if it is even, and it will cut into four pieces, one of which, Fig. 12, will have no seam at all; one, Fig. 13, will have a straight seam down

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the middle; the other two, Fig. 14, have each a piece like a gore on one side. These shifts, when neatly made, are just as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way, and it saves a great deal of work.

PLATE 6. FIG. 8, 16.

This is a pretty variety of sleeve, and is most suitable for young children. It is intended to fall over the frock. Fig. 8 represents the shape of the sleeve when cut out, and Fig. 16 when it is finished. The sleeve is cut all in one piece, taking care that the slope of the flap, C, when turned back, corresponds with the slope of the sleeve, D. The sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric, work, or lace. The advantage of this shape is, that both sleeve and flap are in one.

TROWSERS OR DRAWERS.

PLATE 7.

These are worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost all ages, under the different names of trowsers and drawers. They are made in a great variety of ways. Those mentioned here are the kinds most generally approved. Drawers for ladies and children are usually made of calico, twill, and cambric muslin. Those ladies who are invalids, or who ride much, frequently wear flannel or wash-leather drawers, with or without white calico leglets. For men, drawers are composed of very strong twill, calico, linen, flannel, and stockinet.

CHILD'S TROWSERS.

PLATE 7. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a child's first pair of trowsers, and should be made of fine twill or calico. Each leg is cut in one piece, and, when folded, is 4 nails wide; therefore, to prevent waste, the material should be 9 nails in width.

Cut off the 2 breadths for the two legs, of the proper length, and observe the following directions:-

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Slope off from A to C, and cut from A to B, taking off a nail from the width at the top. In making, sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front, leaving them open behind, with a broad hem on each side, formed by laying a strip of the same material at each end, which is run at the edge on the wrong side, turned over to hide the stitches, and hemmed or back-stitched near the edge. The legs are then tucked, and the work or frill sewn on. The whole is next set into a band, a of a nail deep when doubled, and 5 nails long, which buttons behind. Shoulder-straps, with button-holes, are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons before and behind. This plan is far more convenient than that of sewing on the straps, as, when they are only buttoned on, if it is necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day, they may be simply unbuttoned without undressing the child, and the clean trowsers fastened to the shoulder-straps, which still remain over the shoulder.

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