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The most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once, is eight, and should be done as follows, to prevent waste (see Fig. 3). Tear off two lengths of 14 nails, which, when torn each in four, will form the eight head-pieces. The horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two rows deep, four in each row, of 23 nails wide, which will require 10 nails of the breadth, leaving a piece 8 nails wide and 7 nails long. This piece will cut the eight pairs of strings, which are each half a nail wide, and 7 nails long. After cutting out the cap, shape the head-pieces according to Fig. 4 in the Plate, by which it will be seen that 14 nail is taken off in a direct line from A to B. The piece for the horse-shoe crown must be folded, and rounded carefully at the top, and then sloped off in a direct line, thus cutting off half a nail from each side.

In making up the cap, place the straight part of the head-piece in front, and put two runners, besides hem, at equal distances from each other in front, say of a nail. Whip the back neatly, and after hemming the horse-shoe crown, sew the head-piece firmly to it. Some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater firmness, and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in, as it ought to be, to the bottom, instead of the top of the hem. A hem is made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw. Double borders in front, a single one behind, and the strings sewed on, complete the cap.

A YOUNG SERVANT'S NEAT DAY-CAP.

PLATE 9. FIG. 7, 8.

This shape is generally made of clear muslin, widow's lawn, or jaconet, and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service, from its neat simplicity.

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The cap is folded in half the width, and cut according to Fig. 7. The side marked D is the doubled part. Mark on the opposite side 2 nails from the top, E, and slope or hollow out a piece from E to H very gradually, letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not exceed half a nail.

Next slope off gradually from H to L at the distance of a nail from the bottom; after which, cut the straight line E K, which is 1 nail in length, the letter K being situated about of a nail from the side

This is a

and 1 from the top, and then slope gradually to M. In making up the cap, sew from E to K, and gather in the top from K to M, as in Fig. 8. A single or double border is put in front. small size.

Fig. 18, 19, 27, and 28 are different shaped strings for caps.

ANOTHER NEAT CAP FOR SERVANTS.

PLATE 9. FIG. 9, 10.

This shape is particularly liked by the poor, from the ease with which it is made up and washed, as, upon undrawing the string, it opens readily at the top, and lies quite flat to be ironed.

As the shape is peculiar, if many are to be cut at once, it would be the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper, the pattern of the cap, according to Fig. 9; open it out and lay it on the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage. If only one is to be cut, procure a piece of muslin 8 nails wide and 53 nails long; which, when folded evenly in half its width, shape as follows, according to the Plate. The side marked D is the doubled part; from E at the bottom to F is 2 nails. From the top, G to H, measure 24 nails, and cut off in a sloping line from I, at the top of the doubled corner, to H, again cut from H to F, after which cut off from F to about a nail above E, and then the shape of the cap is formed.

Strings of the usual size, nail wide and 7 nails long, complete the cap.

In making it up, sew from H to Y, and then hem all round the open part along Y to I, and sew on a full frill of nail deep, and about 18 nails long. Afterwards hem the front and back of the cap, put double borders in front, and a single one behind, of 1 nail deep, and 3 breadths of 16 or 18 nails wide.

ANOTHER SHAPE.

PLATE 9. FIG. 11, 12.

This is a very simple shape, and for washing and making up is equally convenient with Fig 10. It answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies, in which case it might be made of net or tulle, with a quilling or lace border.

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Fold the cap in half its length, making D the doubled part (see Fig. 11). Sew and fell from A to B, to the depth of 1 nail, and hem round the rest of the opening behind, to admit of a ribbon. Let there be two runners besides the hem in front, to admit of tape or narrow ribbon. The border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended: if for a night-cap, a double border in front and single behind will be required: if for a bonnet-cap, a double border or quilling only, in front will be sufficient. It may be as well also to remark, that if it is meant for a night-cap, the length of the cap down the selvage should be greater, say 11 or 12 nails; and the width of the material, to cut to the best advantage, must, of course, be either exactly the same, or double.

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This pattern needs little further explanation, the shape and size are so clearly given in the Plate. The head-piece is sloped off at the ears, beginning to cut at 1 nail above the corner, to 1 nail beyond the corner, at the bottom of the cap.

This cap is for school-girls, and is particularly neat if of checked muslin with corded muslin frills.

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This cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and weepers, which, of course, add much to the cost; twelve is the best number to cut out at once. They are generally made for ladies of sprigged muslin, when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or fine calico. The borders are cambric, muslin, or net, edged with Valenciennes lace, or other neat trimming. The weepers are also frilled and edged, as also the rounded ends of the band. The crown is sloped off a little at the corner, as seen in Fig. 16, at A, which is about 2 nails from the corner. The weepers are also shaped to a point, as in Fig. 19 (see B). The band (Fig. 18) is gathered in at about 1 nail from the end, which is rounded, with edging sewed on. The middle of the band is plaited, and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-pieee, in front.

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