cutting away a little of the front, at the top, so as to make it less deep than the back, observing always that it is straight in the front, the crosswise part of the sleeve falling behind. This is of great importance, as the set of the sleeve depends upon it. Of course attention must be paid to make them in pairs.

There are so many ways of finishing sleeves, and so many fancies about them, that to describe them all would be equally impossible and useless. A few rows of biassing, both at the top and bottom, or small plaits, confined once or twice by narrow bands, or by back-stitching, give a very neat appearance when the sleeve is at all a full one.

For lining sleeves, see the description in Chapter I.

A CHILD'S FIRST SLEEVE.
PLATE 12. FIG. 1, 2.

This is a neat shape for a child of a year old, before which time their sleeves are generally cut straight, and merely sloped down to the cuff.

Turn up your material seven nails, and, after cutting a pattern according to the figure, lay it on the piece and cut by it.

The pattern is cut as follows (see Fig. 2):-Take half a square of seven nails each way, and from A to B measure two nails; the same from A to H, and mark across, letting the wrist be one nail and three-quarters wide. From B to C is four nails, between which, measure downwards, one nail and a half, and curve from B, by L, to C, which is one nail from D. Measure next to E, three nails, and curve from C to E, and again from E to G, which is two nails from F'.

The part marked D in all the sleeves is double. When made up it resembles Fig. 1.

Slope from F to G, and from G to H.

In making up Fig. 3, after joining the seams, and hemming or piping it at the bottom, gather it into the arm-hole at the top, and make a string-case just above the elbow to confine it as in the Plate. If preferred, it may be gathered above the elbow, and a narrow band put on.

LONG SLEEVE FOR A GROWN-UP PERSON.

PLATE 12. FIG. 5, 6.

This is cut as follows:-Turn up your paper pattern, or material, nine nails upon the cross (see Fig. 6).

Cut straight from B to K, which is two nails below C. Cut in a sweep from K to the point, O, which is a quarter of a nail below E.

This takes rather more of the material than the other shapes, but it is so easily cut out, and looks so well when made up, that it is allowed a place here.

For the full size it is a perfect circle, in a square of about fifteen nails.

After the circle is formed, double it in half (see Fig. 8); measure at A B a sufficient width to admit

of the wrist, and slit up, in a slightly curving line, from B to C for about four nails, to form the arm of

the sleeve. A little of the circle, from E towards B, is then sloped off to form the hollowing.

When made up, this part, E, is all taken up and gathered into the shoulder-strap. It is considered to hang particularly well, falling over the tight part of the sleeve (see Fig. 7.)

A PLAIN LONG SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 9, 10.

Turn up your material a yard or fifteen nails. If it will not permit of this being done without joining, add a straight piece along the dotted line, running the two selvages together. Cut out as follows:

Cut from C to within half a nail below B for the wrist. Cut nearly straight from B to O, which is two nails and a half below L, and in a sweep from O to E.

Curve from C to B; from B to F. Hollow from F to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H.
It is made up either quite simply, or with one or two rows of biassing below the gathers at the top.

Slope in a regular curve from C, by B, to E. Curve easily from E to G, and cut nearly straight from G to H. Cut from H to I for the wrist.

A SMALL SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 15, 16.

Turn up your material so that the cross part, is seventeen nails long. Cut as follows (Fig. 16):

Slope, in an equal and full curve, from C, by B, to F. Cut straight from G to I.

AN OLD WOMAN'S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 17, 18.

This is an economical kind of sleeve, worn much by the working classes.

Double your material either on the cross or nearly straight, according to taste and economy. From A to B, the doubled part, is ten nails and a half. C is the point opposite O, which is two nails below B. Slope, in an outward curve, from B to C, and then, taking but one fold of the silk, cut the inward curve from B to C, which forms the hollowing or inside of the sleeve.

A BOY'S SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 19, 20.

This is for a boy of about six years old, who wears tunics of cloth. The sleeve, when doubled, is six nails long, four nails wide at the top, and one nail and three-quarters at the wrist. A is three nails from the top, opposite to which is B.

Curve froin C to B, hollowing out one fold. Fig. 20 represents the sleeve made up.

This sleeve is for a boy's coat or tunic, and has two seams in it, like a man's coat sleeve. Take two pieces of cloth eight nails long and three wide. from A to the bottom, to within half a nail from the corner.

A is half way down the length. Curve Curve from B to C at two nails from the

top, and from A to B at three-quarters of a nail from the side, which forms the elbow. Curve from C to the bottom, at three-quarters of a nail from the side.

A WOMAN'S LARGE SLEEVE.

PLATE 12. FIG. 22, 23.

Turn up your material fourteen nails, and double it so as to be sixteen nails long at the top, ACE.

Sweep gradually from B, past C, to F. Curve again from F to H. Cut in a straight line from H to J.

In making up, the sleeve may be biassed one nail from the top, and a piped band laid on, and again three or four times at the wrist, or it may be confined above the elbow; in which case it must be made a little longer than would otherwise be necessary.

This is a pattern that can only be used when large sleeves are worn; but, being a good shape, it is hoped it may prove acceptable.

SHORT SLEEVES.
PLATE 12. FIG. 24, 25, 26,

These are for dresses, frocks, or even petticoats, when full sleeves are worn and liked.

Cut the pattern of the whole sleeve in paper; and then, turning up your material to a sufficient size crosswise, lay the sleeve open upon it, placing the long side of the pattern upon the cross or doubled part of the material. Both sleeves may thus be cut out at once.

When cut out, fold each sleeve in half (see Fig. 26), and hollow one fold out to form the inside. Take care to hollow the sleeves properly, so as to make a pair, the straight part of the sleeve being in front, which is to be hollowed. If the sleeve should require joining, sew two selvages together (see the dotted line, Fig. 25).

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