Chemisettes are worn under evening dresses, and are trimmed with blonde, lace, or muslin edging, which should just be seen above the gown. The part marked S is the shoulder. The chemisette is put on over the head and draws round the waist by a tape. This is particularly neat for a baby's pelisse, and may be sewed on to the shoulder-piece. (Fig. 5.) This collerette should be piped all round, and edged with work, excepting the curve, which goes half round the neck. Two half collerettes must be cut, one for the right, and one for the left side of the neck. A HABIT SHIRT. Fig. 23 represents half of the back of a habit shirt. Fig. 20, one of the two fronts which are sewed on to the back at the shoulder, the parts marked in each figure, S, being the corresponding pieces. This back, which, of course is cut in the whole piece, has a tape passed through a hem at the bottom, which tape also passes through the hems at the bottom of the two fronts, and ties before. This figure represents one of the fronts of the habit-shirt; the part marked D is the front, S is the shoulder; where the two fronts meet they may be fastened by small buttons, and sometimes work is let in, or narrow tucks made, which have a neat effect. Below the shoulder, and down the front, it is finished with a narrow hem. A collar may be sewed to it at the neck, by a mantua-maker's hem. A MOURNING COLLAR. PLATE 13. FIG. 21. Made of clear muslin, white crape, widow's lawn, net or tulle, with a broad hem one nail deep all round. The hems to these collars are generally laid on, by being run at the edge, and then turned back and hemmed, this is a much neater plan than any other. Sometimes two collars with deep hems are worn one above the other. For mourning collars of net with either a broad hem, frills with deep hems, or gaufiered frills are used. If the mourning is very deep, the muslin collar is covered with black crape. A ROUND CAPE OR TIPPET. No scale can be made to this tippet, as the size is only determined according to the purpose for which it is to be used. Form a perfect circle, and slit from the outer edge of the circle A to the centre B, after which cut out a piece for the neck. This is a very good shape for school-girls, it also makes a useful dressing or combing tippet. A HABIT SHIRT. PLATE 13. FIG. 24. This is a very simple neat shape for a habit shirt. T is the front, and D the middle of the back. It is all cut in one piece, and the part marked B may be laid against the selvage; S is the shoulder. This is a very simple collar, and much worn by persons of quiet unassuming habits. It is composed of two oblong strips of muslin, hemmed all round with rather a broad hem, and sewed together at the ends half the way up. Each oblong is four nails long and about three nails deep. A REMARKABLY PRETTY PELERINE FOR A MORNING DRESS. PLATE 13. FIG. 28. This is the pattern of a very handsome long pelerine. The part marked S must be laid along the selvage. Of course this is in two parts, both of which will nearly lie side by side on the opposite selvages of the same breadth. This is a frill to go over each shoulder of a cape or pelerine, as a finish, and is peculiarly adapted to Fig. 25, 27. Draw a straight line across from A to B, which are situated one nail within the corners of the square. SCALE. Curve, according to the pattern, from the corner to E. The cross part is then fulled on to the pelerine, leaving about two nails from the front and back points. If used for the latter, it may be made with a hem all round, through which a coloured or white satin ribbon may be drawn of about twopenny width. A single or double frill of net should be sewed round it, with a corresponding hem for ribbon. This frill, after the hem is made, should be a full nail deep. This little front, or modesty, is to put inside a low dress, and may be made very prettily. The materials most in use for them are cambric, lawn, muslin, net, tulle, satin, or crape. They are generally |