town.-Speculators in land.-Iron ore and iron smelting.—

Itinerant lecturers.-Mouths of the Tobique and Aroostook

rivers.-Potato breakfasts and meals in common.-Mellicete

Indians on the Tobique.-Irish settlement and thriving settlers.

-Grand Falls and town of Colebrook,

Page

33

CHAPTER III.

UP THE ST JOHN TO LITTLE FALLS, AND ACROSS THE PROVINCE FROM

FREDERICTON TO MIRAMICHI.

Upper St John.-Colonel Coomb's farm.-Growth and consump-

tion of buckwheat.-Valley of the Madawaska.-Edmonston,

or Little Falls.-Houses of the Acadian farmers.-Tea dinners.

—Ascent of the river Tobique.—Rich upper lands of the

river. Why buckwheat is unfavourable to good husbandry.—

Terraces of the St John River.-Autumnal tints of North

America.-Time of growth of grain-crops in New Brunswick.—

Sumach trees.-Apple-orchards.-Scotch settlement.-Making

land at Fredericton.-Rising of stones under the influence of

the frost.-Fire-weeds and Canada thistle.-Stanley, the settle-

ment of the New Brunswick Land Company.-Price of farms.

-Running fire in the fields.-Bilberry swamp.-Farm and

opinion of an Aberdonian.-Raspberry hay.-Mare's-tail cut for

hay.-Boistown.-Great fire of 1825.-Gloomy landscape.—

Fires in the forest.-Nakedness of the cleared land.-Success

of farmers in New Brunswick.-Price of farms on the Mira-

michi River.—Increasing consumption of oatmeal,

67

CHAPTER IV.

FROM THE MIRAMICHI RIVER TO THE CITY OF ST JOHN, BY

SUSSEX VALE.

-

Douglastown. Great heat. Mode of reclaiming forest land.-—

Plague of grasshoppers-Average produce, prices and wages.

-Chatham.-Golden rod, a troublesome weed.-North Ameri-

can oaks.-European weeds on the cleared lands.-History of

an Annandale settler. - Bay-du-Vin schoolmaster. Richi-

bucto.-Buctouche River.-Sweet fern soils.-Patience and

contentment of the French settlers.-Shediac, famed for its

oysters.-The Bend-Bore of the river Petitcodiac.-Height of

high water above that of the Bay.-Case of Mr Nixon.-Use of

river mud.- Greater industry of new settlers.-Burned Bridge.

---

-Beauty of Sussex Vale.-Mr Evanson's home-farm. Mr

Aiton's farm.-Hampton, and its conglomerate soils.-Fine-

looking yeomen of New Brunswick.-Price of farms.-A dis-

contented Irishman.-Dyked marshes of St John and the

Atlantic border. Rate of wages for agricultural labour in the

several counties of the province,

Page

. 102

CHAPTER V.

FROM ST JOHN IN NEW BRUNSWICK TO SYRACUSE IN WESTERN

NEW YORK.

Steamboat from St John to Portland, in Maine.

-

Railway to

Newhaven, in Connecticut.-Alleged rudeness of American

manners.-Farming in Connecticut and Massachusetts.-Yale

College. Number of Students.-Expense of residence.-Infe-

rior position of professional men.-Estimation of lawyers and

medical men. Favouring of quacks.-Medical schools in the

United States.-Elm-trees of Newhaven.-Tree-toad.-Fair-

haven; its oyster-trade.-Two species of American oysters of

large size. Railway to Albany up the Housatonic Valley.—

Post-tertiary clays and sands of the upper valley of the

Hudson River and of Lake Champlain. Natural forests

which grow upon them.-Schenectady.-Valley of the Mo-

hawk.-Rich bottoms of this valley.-Broom corn, (Sorghum

saccharatum,) its extensive cultivation.-German flats.-Utica.

-German population.--Change in the meaning of familiar

words. Choice of judges by popular election.-Titular judges

and generals.-Popped corn.-Flour of Indian corn; varieties

in its colour.-City of Rome.-Mr Clay.-Verona.-Arrival

at Syracuse,

131

CHAPTER

VI.

THE CITY OF SYRACUSE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Syracuse. Its rapid growth.-Popularity of Mr Clay.-Show of the

New York State Agricultural Society. — Agricultural imple-

ments. What they teach.-Law against long leases.-Breeds

of stock in New England, and in the Western States.-Merino

sheep. Trotting horses.-Condition of agriculture.- Fruit

region of Western New York.-Profits of apple-growing.

Quantity of fruit exported.-Varieties of apples in the

United States and in Normandy.-Apple-trees producing a

crop every year-Gout de terrain. Mr Geddes's farm.-Rich

soils of the Onondaga salt group.- Rotation followed.-

Exhausting effects of this rotation.-Average produce of the

State and of its richest western counties.-Profits of farm-

ing.-Property confers no political privilege. — Experiments

with gypsum.- Wages of farm-servants.- Section of the

wheat region of western New York.-Beautiful relation of

the soils to the rocks.-Quantity of salt manufactured at

Syracuse. Consumption of salt in the United States and in

Great Britain.-Revenue from the salt springs.-Method of

extracting the salt,

Page

157

FROM SYRACUSE TO BUFFALO AT THE FOOT OF LAKE ERIE.

-

Railway to Buffalo.-The Americans a clever people.-Joe Smith,

founder of the Mormons.-His removal to Missouri, to Ohio,

and Illinois.—Progress of his sect.-New State of Utah, on

the Salt Lake.-Character of the book of Mormon.-Canan-

dagua.- City of Rochester.-Genesee flour.-Value of farms

on the Genesee River.-Profits of farming in this valley.—Mr

Wadsworth's farms and farming. — Inducements to invest

money in land in New York State.-Relative values of rural

produce and of human labour. Average produce of the

Genesee country.-New York does not produce wheat enough

for its own consumption.-North-east America not a danger-

ous competitor in the English wheat market.-Duty upon

Canadian wheat.-Importance of the direct trade to Europe

by the St Lawrence.-Erie Canal; its traffic and revenue.-

Number of emigrants from different countries.-Influence of

New England on the development of the new States.-Demo-

cratic party.-Principles of the Old Hunkers and the Barn-

burners,

192

City of Buffalo; causes of its rapid rise.-Influence of the growth

of the Western States on the agriculture of western New

York and Upper Canada.-Home ideas as to these new

States. Cheap wheat does not imply rich land.-Michigan.—

Average produce of this State, and of its several counties.-Can

CONTENTS.

the export of wheat from these new States continue ?—Quantity

of seed-corn per acre sown in the several States.-Copper

mines of Lake Superior.-Immense masses of native copper.

-How they occur.-Ancient Indian workings.-State of

Wisconsin.-Popular feeling in regard to the several new

States.-Land sold in each in 1847.-Minnesota, the New

England of the West.-Influence of these new States on the

future traffic of the St Lawrence. Wonders of the hog

crop of Ohio.-Indian corn the staple of Ohio.-Hogs killed

in the western States. - How they are fed." Packing

business" at Cincinnati.-Various marketable products of this

-

-

xiii

Page

business at Cincinnati,

CHAPTER

IX.

221

FROM BUFFALO TO THE FALLS, AND DOWN LAKE ONTARIO TO KINGSTON

IN LOWER CANADA.

Case of American cleverness.-Butcher in Buffalo.-Influence of

Europe on the progress of American cities.-Cause of dif-

ference in the progress of Canadian and New York cities.—

Lake Erie. Supposed periodical rise and fall in the level of

the great lakes.-Water discharged by the Niagara River.—

Hotel at the Falls.-Coloured waiters.-Geological Section at

the Falls.-Wearing action of the water.-Influence of the

winds on Lake Erie.-Influence of the noise of the Falls

on their impression upon the mind. Railway to Lewis-

town. - View from the mountain ridge. Voyage on

Lake Ontario.-Profits of New York farming by a New

York farmer.-City of Oswego.-Sackett's Harbour.-Railway

to Canada.-Kingston in Upper Canada.-Character of the

Upper Canadians.-Difference between a Canadian and a New

York wife to a working man,

CHAPTER X.

-

KINGSTON AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Kingston.Show of the Upper Canada Agricultural Society.-

Implements in the show-yard.- Canadian coffee. - British

sympathy with colonial grievances.-Alleged pusillanimity of

the Governor-general. Wheat the surest crop in Canada

West.-Total produce of Canada West, and average yield per

acre.-Diminished productiveness of the wheat-crop.—Social

position of the farming class in Upper Canada.

United

242

-

-

Empire Loyalists.-Indian-corn whisky.-Extensive manufac-

ture of it at Cincinnati in Ohio.- Whisky from pease.—

Prospects of Kingston.-The Thousand Isles of the River

St Lawrence.-Descending the rapids. The Sault St Louis.

-Approach to Montreal. Metamorphic limestone rich in

phosphate of lime.-Agricultural value of this rock.-Deposits

of mineral phosphate in the State of New York. Origin of

this mineral phosphate, and of garnet, graphite, &c. found in

crystalline limestones.-Singular contortions exhibited by this

limestone,

-

Page

264

CHAPTER XI.

MONTREAL AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

-

Montreal.-New churches.-Ruins of the Parliament House.-

Scotch farmers in the Island of Montreal.-Cultivation of

hops.-Price of land.-French Canadian farms and farming.

-Clerical obstacles to the settlement of Protestant farmers.—

Importance of a better husbandry in Lower Canada.-Instruc-

tion in agricultural principles.-Excursion to St Hilaire.—St

Lawrence and Atlantic railroad.-Maple sugar manufacture

in Canada and the adjoining States. Soil of the valley of St

Lawrence. Pigeon or stone weed, its prevalence. — What its

history teaches.-Bellœil Mountain.-Beautiful view of the St

Lawrence flats.-Exhaustion of this formerly fertile region.-

Seignorial tenure of land.-Reserved rights of the seigneur.-

Sherbrooke.-Lands of the "Canadian Land Company," in the

eastern counties. Their progress.-Voyage to Quebec.-The

Ottawa River and District. Its rising importance. British

Parties in the city.

-

and French in Montreal.

-

- Why

287

British members from Upper Canada voted for the Rebellion

Losses Bill.-Explanation of one of their number,

CHAPTER XII.

FROM QUEBEC DOWN THE ST LAWRENCE TO THE MITIS RIVER.

-

Land opposite Quebec. Its quality and value.-Few immigrants
into this region.-Roman Catholic seminary.-Self-sacrifice of
the teachers-Falls of Montmorenci.-Sun-setting on Quebec.
-Proportions of the different sects.-Comparative prosperity
of Montreal and Quebec. - Fires in the latter city.—Journey
down the St Lawrence.-Flat lands of St Thomas.-St Roque