Obrázky stránek

sides these, we had a variety of excellent vegetables; over and above, there was another article on the table, which the waiter affirmed to be cheese, but no one would have known it as such from the appearance; it resembled ginger-bread crumbled fine. The poor waitcr, I felt for him, his feelings must have been wounded by the sarcasms of the company, all but the Frenchman and myself. One said it was saw-dust, another said it was potash at length the Virginian made us all laugh, by saying, "O yes, I recollect now, it is cheese-it is the identical cheese I dined upon seven years ago, on my way to Washington!" Having dined, I asked the waiter what was to pay?" Three quarters of a dollar," quoth he. The other passengers threw down the cash, but I sought the landlord: "and what do I owe you, sir?" "Three quarters." "Where is your rates?" said I."We fix our own rates," said mine host. "So then we stand on even ground, you fix your rates, so do 1," and handing him fifty.cents, I stept into the stage-not anoth er word passed between us. My fellow travellers, however, appeared mortified that they did not, like myself, save the odd quarter. It is nothing but an act of justice to society, to treat these pickpockets in this manner -common sense must point out to the lowest understan ding, that the traveller has the same right to refuse, that the publican has to exact an exorbitant bill, unless the rates are fixed by law, and placed in public view, which ought to be the case throughout every civilized country, changing them with the rise and fall of the market. It tickled the Frenchman exceedingly, my behaviour to the landlord. As he was the last to quit the house, one of the party asked him what the landlord said. "He say not a word, he look like one statue, he tunderstruck, he stand, he look astonishment after de coach, he say noting."

A pleasant anecdote is related of Gen. La Fayette, as he travelled from Baltimore to Washington. Being told he was to dine at Waterloo, he refused to do so, disgust ed with the name, and actually pushed on to his quar ters without stopping. This warning hint has determined the landlord to change the name of his inn-so

[blocks in formation]


ble. -the eveni.

we re ments

co at what i

which Fro have differe


ly dur

mutua tions,

which east, ti

his que taking

their and th wing anothe

dest se

ment, suspici

Balt ning to of won height. dings,

ment, t

ping, ti

bles; able,

> one

e; it




aid it

ugh, -it is

9, on






en we








says report. It must have been a great disappointment to him, as he doubtless had made great preparation, knowing too that a large escort would accompany the genera 1.

In the course of the day we crossed the Patapsco and Patuxent rivers, which, to my astonishment, are quite ordinary streams, being narrow, shallow, and unnavigable. No house or farm distinguish their solitary course -they flow through a poor hilly country. Towards evening we came in sight of Baltimore, some miles before we reached it! The towering spires and white monuments first appeared, then the city, and here the Patapsco again, spread out into a vast sheet. This river forms what is called a bason, at this place, sufficient for ships, which led to the idea of a commercial town.

From the time we got out of the stage to this day, I have never laid eyes on my fellow travellers. What a difference! In the western country, we are not only more sociable while travelling, but constitute one family during the route, at all times and places. From the mutual dangers, the pleasantries, accidents, and privations, incident to travellers, an attachment takes place which is not dissolved, perhaps ever. But here in the east, they jump out of the stage, and each one sets out to quarters with perfect indifference, and even without taking leave. This difference, is no doubt owing to superior numbers, to their journey's being shorter, and the numerous impostors, who are constantly on the . It wing seeking for prey, and flying from one seaport to another. Admitting these causes however, in their widest sense, I cannot reconcile that unsociable deportment, which wears such obvious marks of groundless suspicion.


s the



to the

ne of




te, as







Baltimore. I just arrived time enough in the eveaing to have a view of this (to me) great city. A host of wonders bursted upon me at once, the vast number, heighth and density of the houses, the massy public buil dings, the Washington monument, the Baltimore monument, the great expanse of water, the quantity of ship ping, the number of well dressed people in the streets,


a cr


and Fell





sen! fod

overwhelmed me with astonishment. I have not the least doubt but this remark may excite a smile, particu larly in those who were never out of a populous town, but they must remember that till now I was never in one, and that those things which are matter of so much indif ference to them, are as gratifying to me, as our long. deep, smooth-flowing rivers, our endless prairies, our solemn forests, our wild mountains and deep caverns, our flowery plains, rude hamlets and fertile fields of bending corn, would be to them. It is natural for one to desire to see whatever is new or uncommon, and next to this, a description of them; but that person to whom they are new, will be more likely to point out their distin guishing traits, than one who has spent his life amongst them. One who has spent his days in a great city, sees it without emotion, because it is familiar to him. I be. gin too late to discover, that I have fell very short in de and scribing the western states, from having always resided hard there. Dropping this digression, however, I shall en-side deavor to convey my own impressions, as best calculated Ba to give satisfaction to those who like myself havo al The ways lived in the back country.

ther sira!





well Had an awkward back woods country person, mysel ingto for instance, been taken up and dropped down in this appe world of houses, I should have been afraid to budge, lestar a those formidable carts and waggons might have settled with the question with me for ever; and as for entering one of those splendid houses, it would be the last thing I should are a think of. I should have been afraid the lord of the man-a pri s on would look me out of existence. But I had been in maso Alexandria, I had been in Washington, and had, it is true, fee h seen a few fashionable people, and some splendid houses in the western states, but not so many by half. such be Baltimore, thought I, what must be Philadelphia and New-York. I put up at the same house where Gen. La Fayette lodged, and saw the room which the General occupied, just as he left it, the furniture had not been disturbed, out of respect to him.




el, 1



Baltimore lics on the north side of the Patapsco river, is a 18 miles from the Chesapeake. It stands upon an cle- 140 vated situation, with a gentle descent to the harbour. the

not the particu as town,

r in one, ch indif. ur long,

ries, our caverns,

d next to

The city is divided into the old town, and Fell's Point, by a creek called Jones's creek, (called by the citizens the falls.) This creek strikes the harbour at a right angle, and divides the town into east and west. The east is Fell's Point, which projects some distance into the ba sin, and gives the city the form of a bow. Large ships come up to Fell's Point, whilst none but the smallest size come to the west part of the town. I had been told s of ben that Fell's Point was low and unhealthy; it is so reprene to de-sented by geographers; what was my astonishment to find it no ways inferior to the other part of the town, eihom they ther for beauty or situation; if any thing, it is the most de ir distinsirable part of the city. Elegant buildings, fine paved amongst streets, and splendid churches distinguish Fell's Point. It city, sees is called the Point simply by the citizens. Half a dozen n. I be bridges at least, are thrown over the creek mentioned, ort in de- and so close do the houses come to it, that the creek is s resided hardly perceptible. It is walled up with stone on each shall en side for a considerable distance above the mouth. calculated Baltimore is two miles in length, and of different widths. have alThe streets are paved and lighted; the houses, though well built, do not look so handsome as those of Washington, because they are older, they have not that fresh appearance. The houses of Washington too, standing so far asunder, have not the same chance of being tinged with smoke.

n, myseli wn in this udge, lest ve settled ng one of

Public Buildings.-The public buildings of Baltimore I should are a town hall, a court-house, an exchange, a library, the mana prison, an alms-house, a hospital, a penitentiary, a d been in masonic hall, a circus, a theatre, 3 market houses, 2 cofit is true,fee houses, 2 colleges, 18 churches, viz.-4 for Roman did hous-Catholics, 1 for Scots Presbyterians, 1 for Swedenbourhalf. li gians, 1 for Swedish Lutherans, 2 for Universalists, 1 for ladelphia Unitarians, 4 for the Evangelical Society, 1 Prison Chapse where el, 1 Orphans Asylum, 1 Widows Asylum, 1 Magdalen which the Asylum.

re had not

Of these, the exchange and the Roman Catholic cathedral are by far the most conspicuous. The exchange sco river, is a beautiful structure of white freestone, 360 feet by on an ele. 140!-In it is transacted all commercial business. The harbour. Cathedral is celebrated as being the most superb church

[ocr errors]

in the United States. It certainly is superior to any thing I have seen, except the capitol of the United States and the President's house. It is of the same architec ture with the capitol, and like it was planned by Latrobe. It is a massy building, of freestone, in the form of a cross: the sexton, who lives near the spot, showed it to us, but he was unable to tell the dimensions. It has four fronts, and a portion of scripture cut in large letters on each. It has a dome similar to that of the capitol, and or namented in like manner with wreaths and flowers in stuc co; but the capitol is of the purest white, whilst the cathedral is of a grayish colour, and the stucco has a reddish hue. The interior of the church is remarkable for a su. perb altar, and a painting representing our Saviour, just taken down from the cross: the piece is said to excel any thing of the sort in the union; it was. presented to the church by Louis the XVI. of France. The body of our Saviour is represented with a white cloth round the waist; he is lying on the ground, with his head and shoulders in his mother's lap, who is also sitting on the ground. She is represented as fainting away; her eyes are closed, and the beloved disciple leaning over her: Joseph of Arimathea is standing near the body and look. ing upon it; also Mary Magdalen and Nicodemus. Mary of Salome is standing up, with her eyes and hands raised to heaven: the Roman guards are likewise standing near, with fierce aspects. The whole is painted to the life, and looks as though they were living beings. The crown of thorns has just fallen off, and actually looks as though one might go and take it up: the blood is issuing from the wounds inflicted by the thorns, from the temples of our Saviour, also from his side and his feet. Our Saviour is represented in different paintings in the cathedral, from infancy to the time of ascension into heaven. I am told it is subject to a ground rent of $2000 per an


[blocks in formation]











The Unitarian church stands nearly opposite to the cathedral, and wants but little of being equal to it in size and magnificence. Having heard nothing of this last, and being struck with its singular beauty, I asked a gen-hol


« PředchozíPokračovat »