Obrázky stránek
[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]


[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]


sides these, we had a variety of excellent vegetables; over and above, there was another article on the table, which the waiter affirmed to be cheese, but no would have known it as such from the appearance ; it resembled ginger-bread crumbled fine. The poor wait. cr, I felt for him, his scclings must have been wounded by the sarcasms of the company, all but the Frenchman and myself. One said it was saw-dust, another said it b was potash : at length the Virginian made us all laugh, by saying, “ O yes, I recollcci now, it is chcescmit is the identical cheese I dined upon seven years ago, on my way to Washington !" Having dincd, I asked the waiter what was to pay ? " Three quarters of a dollar,” quoth he. The other passengers threw down the cash, wh. but I sought the landlord: “and what do I owe you, sir ?"

whi “Three quarters," "Where is your rates ?" said l.

F "We fix our own rates," said minc host. “So then we stand on even ground, you fix your rules, so do I," and dilla handing him fifty.cents, I stept into the stage-not another word passed between us. My fellow travellers, however, appeared mortificd that they did not, 4ike myself, save the odd quarter. It is nothing but an act of jus . tions. tice to society, to treat these pickpockets in this maliner which coinmon sense must point out to the lowest understan.

Gasi, ding, that the traveller has the same right to refuse, that his qu the publican has to exact an exorbitant bill, unless the taking rates are fixed by law, and placed in public virw, which their ought to be the case throughout every civilized country,

and the changing thein with the rise and fall of the market. It wing: tickled the Frenchman exceedingly, my behaviour to the

anotho landlord. As he was the last to quit the house, one of the purty asked him what the landlord said. "He say ment, not a word, he look like oue statue, he tunderstruck, hc

suspici stand, he look astonishment after de coach, he say noting."

Ball A pleasant anecdote is related of Gen. La Fayelte, as ning! he travelled from Baltimore to Washington. Being told he was to dine at Waterloo, he refused to do so, divgust. heigh cd with the name, and actually pushed on to his quar.

dings, ters without stopping. This warning hint has determined the landlord to change the name of his inn-so

ly chi


Jest se

of wolle

[ocr errors]

ping, !





[ocr errors]


it is

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]


says report. It must have been a great disappointment
to him, as he doubtless had made great preparation,

knowing too that a large escort would accompany the
e; it general.
wait. In the course of the day we crossed the Patapsco and

Patuxent rivers, which, to my astonishment, are quite

ordinary streams, being narrow, shallow, and unnavigaaid it ble. No house or farm distinguish their solitary course «; ugh; 1-they flow through a poor hilly country. Towards

evening we came in sight of Baltimore, some miles before

we reached it! The towering spires and white monuone

d the ments first appeared, then the city, and here the Patapslar,"

co again, spread out into a vast sheet. This river forms cash, what is called a bason, at this place, sufficient for ships,

which led to the idea of a commercial town. I,

From the time we got out of the stage to this day, I

have never laid eyes on my fellow travellers. What a and difference ! In the western country, we are not only both

more sociable while travelling, but constitute one fanzi.

ly during the route, at all times and places. From the vself,

mutual dangers, the pleasantries, accidents, aod priva. jus. tions, incideht to travellers, an attachment takes place which is not dissolved, perhaps ever.

But here in the "stan.

cast, they jump out of the stage, and each one sets out to that

his quarters with perfect indifference, and even without

taking leave. This difference, is no doubt owing to which

their superior numbers, to their journey's being shorter,

and the numerous impostors, who are constantly on the i It

wing seeking for prey, and flying from one seaport to o the

another. Admitting these causes however, in their wi.

dest sense, I cannot reconcile that unsociable deportsay ment, which wears such obvious marks of groundless ki , he

suspicion. not

Baltimore. I just arrived time enough in the eve1

fe, as ning to have a view of this (to me) great city. A host 4 told

of wonders bursted upon me at once, the vast nunsber, gusto

heighth and density of the houses, the massy public buil. yuar.

dings, the Washington monument, the Baltimore olonu-
ment, the great expanse of water, the quantity of ship.
ping, the number of well dressed people in the streets,

[ocr errors]


[ocr errors]

s lhe


ne of


overwhelmed me with astonishmont. I have not the least doubt but this remark may excite a smilc, particu. larly iu thoso who wero never out of a populous town, but they must remember that till now I was never in oric, and that those things which are matter of so much indir ference to them, are as gratifying to me, as our long. deep, smooth.flowing rivers, our endless prairies, our solemn forests, our wild mountains and dccp caverns, our flowery plains, rude hamlets and fertile fields of ben: ding corn, would be to them. It is natural for one to de. sire to see whatever is new or uncommon, and next to this, a description of them; but that person to whom they ure new, will be more likely to point out their distiti guishing traits, than one who has spent his life amongst them. "One who has spent his days in a great city, sees it without emotion, because it is familiar to him. I be. gin too late to discover, that I have fell very short in de. scribing the western states, froin having always renidad there. "Dropping this digression, however, I shall en dcavor to convey my own impressions, as best calculated to givo satisfaciion to thono who like myself havo al. ways lived in the back country.

Had an awkward back woods country person, mysel for instance, been taken up and dropped down in this world of houses, I should have been afraid 10 budge, less those formidable carts and waggons might have settled thc qucstion with me for ever; and as for entering one of those splendid houses, it would be the last thing I should think of. I should have been afraid the lord of the man. s on would look me out of existence. But I had been in Alexandria, I had been in Washington, and had, it is true, scen a few fashionable people, and some splendid hous. es in the western states, but not so many by hall. li such br Baltimore, thought I, what must be l'hiladelphia and New.York.' I put up at the same house where Gen. La l'ayelle lodged, and saw the room which the General occupied, just as he left it, the furniture had no been disturbed, out of respect to him.

Ballimore lics on the north side of the Patapsco river, 18 miles from the Chesapeake. ll stands upon an ele. vated situation, with a gentle descent to thc harbour.

not the The city is divided into the old town, and Fell's Point, by particu. a creek called Jones's creek, (called by the citizens the us town, falls.) This creek strikes the harbour at a right angle, rin one, and divides the town into east and west. The east is ch indif

. Fell's Point, which projects some distance into the ba. ur long, sin, and gives the ciiy the form of a bow. Large ships ries, our

come up to Fell's Point, whilst none but the smallesť caverns, size come to the west part of the lown. I had been told 's of ben that Fell's Point was low and unhealthy ; it is so reprenie to desented by geographers ; what was my astonishment to d next to find it no ways inferior to the other part of the town, ei. hom they ther for beauty or situation ; if any thing, it is the most de ir distin. sirable part of the city. Elegant buildings, fine paved amongst streets, and splendid churches distinguish Fell's Point. It cily, secs is called the Point simply by the citizens. Half a dozen n. I be bridges at least, are thrown over the creek mentioned, ori in de and so close do the houses come lo it, that tle creek is s resided hardly perceptible. It is walled up with stone on each shall en side for a considerable distance above the mouth. calculated Baltimore is two miles in length, and of different widths. have al. The streets are paved and lighted; the houses, though

well built, do not look so handsome as those of Wash. n, mysellington, because they are older, they have not that fresh un in this appearance. The houses of Washington too, standing so udge, les far asunder, have not the same chance of being linged vc setilcil with smoke. ng one of Public Buildings.—The public buildings of Baltimore ; I should ar, a town hall, a court-house, an exchange, a library,

the man. Ja prison, an alms-house, a hospital, a penitentiary, a 1.d been in masonic ball, a circus, a theatre, 3 market houses, 2 cof

it is true fee houses, 2 colleges, 18 churches, viz.-4 for Roman did hous Catholics, i for Scots Presbyterians, 1 for Swedenbour

hallo ligians, 1 for Swedish Lutherans, 2 for Universalists, 1 for ladelphia Unitarians, 4 for the Evangelical Society, 1 Prison Chapse where el

, 1 Orphans Asylum, 1 Widows Asylum, 1 Magdalen which the Asylum. re had not Of these, the exchange and the Roman Catholic ca.

thedral are by far the most conspicuous. The exchange sco river, is a beautiful structure of white freestone, 360 feet by on an ele. 1140 !-In it is transacted all commercial business. The

harbour. cathedral is celebrated as being the most superb church

[ocr errors]

in the United States. It certainly is superior to any thing I have seen, excepi the capitol of the United States and the President's house. It is of the same architec. ture with the capitol, and like it was planned by Latrobe. It is a massy building, of freestone, in the form of a cross: the sexton, who lives near the spot, showed it to us, but he was unable to tell the dimensions. It has four fronts, and a portion of scripture cut in large letters on each. It has a dome similar to that of the capitol, and or namented in like manner with wreaths and powers in stuc. co; but the capitol is of the purest while, whilst the cathe. dral is of a grayish colour, and the stucco has a reddish hue. The intcrior of the church is remarkable for a su. perb allar, and a painting representing our Saviour, just taken down from the cross: the piece is said to excel any thing of the sort in the union; it was. presented to the church by Louis ļhe XVI. of France. The body of our Saviour is represented with a white cloth round the waist; he is lying on the ground, with his head and shoulders in his mother's lap, who is also sitting on the ground. She is represented as fainting away; her eyes are closed, and the beloved disciple leaning over her: Joseph of Arimathea is standing near the body and look. ing upon it; also Mary Magdalen and Nicodemus. Mary of Salome is standing up, with her eyes and bands raised to hcaven : the Roman guards are likewise standing near, with fierce aspects. The whole is painted to the life, and looks as though they were living beings. The cror:n of thorns has just fallen off, and actually looks as though one might go and take it up: the blood is issuing from the wounds inflicted by the thorns, from the temples of our Saviour, also from his side and his feet. Our Saviour is represented in different paintings in the cathedral, from infancy to the time of ascension into heaven. I am told it is subject to a ground rent of $2000 per an. num.

The Unitarian church stands nearly opposite to the cathedral, and wants but little of being equal to it in size and magnificence. Having heard nothing of this last, aod being struck with its singular beauty, 1 asked a gen.

« PředchozíPokračovat »