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of the Atlantic. Away with such policy. I shall only
My visit to Baltimore being limited to ten days, I pared to leave it for Philadelphia.* I cannot, however, depart without one more remark, which forms a link in the long chain of human depravity; and proves, that as men become refined in the arts and sciences, they also become refined (if I may be allowed the expression,) in knavery. The circumstance alluded to, is a fraud committed against myself, in the purchase of a piece of silk, from one of the merchants. The clerk, either willingly or through mistake, kept back part of the silk. Discovering the default, I requested the silk or the money. He, putting on a sarcastic grin, refused to do either; I appli ed for justice to the proprietor in the counting-room; but from him I received nothing but the most wanton, the most brutal insults! Being in haste to leave the city, and withal unwilling to swear to a man I never saw but once, I quit them so. Taking the whole into consideration, the insults, and the manner by which I obtained the money to make the purchase, viz. a donation from the of Baltimore, I must say, the man who would be guilty of such an act, would rob the dead. Respect and gratitude for the citizens of Baltimore, compel me to apologise to them for exposing the turpitude of those men, not meaning to say, but they would be as unwilling to screen such an action. "It is not one diamond which gives lustre to another, it is the rough stone comwe pride pared with it which proves its genuine value;" so the conduct of these men serve to cast a bright lustre on that of their fellow citizens, whose memory will ever atend for live in my heart.
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* An execution of a negro took place the day before I left Baltimore. Next to the appalling event, I was shocked at the eagerness of many of the citizens, (and even of the softer sex,) to witness the tragical scene! Of what materials can that being be formed, who is said to have a soul at all, who can calmly stand by, and view the struggles of a fellow mor tal in the pangs of such an exit. Even the sight of a gibbet, which I happened to see once by the road side, filled me with sensations of which I have not yet recovered.
Journey to Philadelphia.-We left Baltimore about sun-down, and arrived in Philadelphia about sun-rise next morning. (Nov. 15;) the distance between ninety and an hundred miles; fare 84. This journey is performed partly by steam-boats and partly by stages. You leave Baltimore in a steam-boat, and sailing down Patapsco, land at Frenchtown. Here you take the stage to Newcastle, (Delaware,) and then take the steam-boat again, and sailing up the Delaware, arrive at Philadelphia. It is very unpleasant to those who wish to see the country, to make this journey in the night to me, it was provoking; nor can I see through the policy of such a plan, which deprives the traveller of so much pleasure. The night was dark and dismal, so much so, that it preeluded the view of every object.
The steam-boats in these waters, are elegantly furnished with every article of convenience, particularly in the articles of meat and drink, (though gentlemen and ladies breakfast, dine, and sup together;) yet they are greatly inferior in size, to the steam-boats in the western rivers the ball-room in the General Green is fully as long as most of the boats in these rivers. Nor is the furniture equal to ours; I have seen no satin spreads, or gold fringe in any of them on yet, which are common is our boats, although we are looked upon as little more than suvages, by many of the people in these large cit ies. Here, as well as there, you must choose your birth, and have it registered, or go without, as was the case with many of us to night, the passengers exceeding the number of births. I richly deserved my fate, as I was the first on board, and neglecting to engage one, had to sit up. One of the ladies who had a birth, bore us company from pure politeness; she lived with a friend in Baltimore, though formerly of Philadelphia, and was then going to the latter, to meet her only son, who had just returned from a long voyage at sea. She was a woman of elegant manners, and highly improved mind; delighted with her company, time new fast, nor did I envy my companions their better fortune.
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This gave rise to some very interesting conversation, respecting old times; although this lady, it appears, was never farther south than Baltimore, where she resides. She is a native of Ireland, handsome and genteel. She is a milliner, and was then on a journey to New-York, to lay in a stock. We laughed, and beguiled both time and care with pleasant stories, and had the good fortune to get a short nap before we arrived at the landing.
About midnight we came to shore, and here was pulling, hauling, settling bills and fare. An hundred people were in motion, men, women, children, and parrots. Here was every one running to get their ticket; "I want my ticket, give me my ticket;" they overset me several times. In short, being at a loss to comprehend the meaning of the ticket, and thinking I might in some way be concerned, I brushed the dust from my clothes as well as I could, made up to my friend of Baltimore, and asked her the meaning-" Oh," she cried, "you are undone if you don't get one." "Are they lottery tickets?"" I asked; "Lottery tickets indeed! no, they are tickets to entitle you to a seat in the stage; if you don't get one you will be left behind." A sense of my danger inspired me with courage, and flying through the crowd, oversetting some in my turn, I gained the table where the ticket man sat, and demanded one. He gave me a bit of a card an inch square, No. 5. I hunted my friend once more to inquire what next? • "Hold fast your ticket till you arrive at the stages, and call for the No. on your card; upon looking at my ticket, she said I must call for No. 5; and that after all the passengers were in stages, a man would go round and collect the tickets." I thanked her for her friendly counsel, and was told that this was done to prevent fraud, on account of the numerous passengers. Nothing could equal the uproar and confusion which now took place; such running with porters, band-boxes, trunks, and portmanteaus, flying in all directions; such pushing, elbowing, and trampling on one's toes; it was emphatically every one for himself. And what made the matter worse, we had but one lantern! For my part, I went by guess; seriously, I never saw a worse managed piece of business, neither order
nor light. After encountering a number of disasters, we were seated in the stage, and the man came round for our tickets, but it would have been the easiest thing in life to have cheated him, it being so dark, that one could not see their hand before them. The cavalcade now set forward, in a solemn walk, without one lamp amongst seven or eight, perhaps ten stages, whilst we prayed heartily for an opposition line. All the amusement 1 had, was the chattering of a poll-parrot, who found great fault with the jolting of the stage, and would ask its mistress, if it was not breakfast time. It seemed an age be fore we arrived at Newcastle, and here we had to get out in the dark, and grope our way to the steam-boat, which we did not quit till we landed at Philadelphia.
Porters are attached to all those lines, for the purpose of conveying the baggage of the passengers from one ve hicle to another, or to your quarters, when you have completed your journey.
Newcastle.-I only saw a few houses in Newcastle, as the people were in bed, no doubt. I never was tnore out of humor to think I had traversed a whole state, without seeing a single tree in it! Newcastle is in the state of Delaware, 35 miles below Philadelphia, on the bank of Delaware river. It was settled by the Swedes, in 1627, and called Stockholm:-it was afterwards taken by the Dutch, and called New-Amsterdam-it next fell into the hands of the British, and was called by its present name. It is the oldest town on the Delaware river, but it is going to decay. I am unable to tell any thing of its trade, population, or the number of houses. It is quite a small town.
I had a fine view of Philadelphia, just in sight, as the sun was rising. The sky was clear-the Jersey state on my right-Pennsylvania on my left, and the noble Delaware on all sides. This river is as large as the Ohio, but not so handsome, being rough and turbid.The constant ebbing and flowing of the tide, (I know no other cause,) always keep those Atlantic rivers rough and muddy; so near the ocean, too, they are visited by the breezes from thence. Pennsylvania, at this place,
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Philadelphia.-My friend of Baltimore, and myself, landed together, and this charming woman understanding I was a stranger in the city, conducted me to the house of an acquaintance of her's, and after introducing me to the family, she left me. The accommodation was just such as I desired, and after taking a cup of coffee, I retired to refresh myself with sleep, before venturing on my pleasing expedition. Philadelphia, I hardly know which end to begin with, though it was in appearance as I had set it down in my mind-the long, straight streets, stretching beyond the ken of human eye, the stately, plain buildings, many of which are full an eighth of a mile in length, under the same roof, same in all respects, as to size and outward appearance, but divided into different apartments, appropriated to different purposes, and owned, no doubt, by different persons. The only disappointment I met with, lay in that facility with which I found my way through the city, and the ease with which I could step off a mile or two upon the smooth pavements, which are as level as a house-floor.
It had often been a subject of my thoughts, many years since, and up to this time, what was meant by