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THE HOUSE AT OCKHAM, SURREY, WHERE MR. PAGE WAS LIVING WHEN THE WAR BROKE OUT

"I walked out in the night a while ago," writes Page. "The stars are bright, the night is silent, the country quiet-as quiet as peace itself. Millions of men are in camp and on warships. Will they all have to fight and many of them die -to untangle this network of treaties and alliances and to blow of huge debts with gunpowder so that the world may start again?"

August, 1914, who had grasped this overwhelming fact. It seems almost like a dispensation of Providence."

It is important to insist on this point now, for it explains Page's entire course as Ambassador. The confidential telegram which Page sent directly to President Wilson in early September, 1914, furnishes the standpoint from which his career as war Ambassador can be understood:

September 11, 3 A. M.
No. 645

Confidential to the President:

Accounts of atrocities are so inevitably a part of every war that for some time I did not believe the unbelievable reports that were sent

from Europe, and there are many that I find incredible even now. But American and other neutral observers who have seen these things in France and especially in Belgium now convince me that the Germans have perpetrated some of the most barbarous deeds in history. Apparently credible persons relate such things without end.

Those who have violated the Belgian treaty, those who have sown torpedoes in the open. sea, those who have dropped bombs on Antwerp and Paris indiscriminately with the idea of killing whom they may strike, have taken to heart Bernhardi's doctrine that war is a glorious occupation. Can any one longer disbelieve the completely barbarous behavior of the Prussians?

(In the December number many of Ambassador Page's letters
will be published describing England under the stress of war.)

PAGE.

A

All in a Life-Time

CHAPTERS FROM AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY

IV. A Day with Kitchener. The Caves of Machpelah

BY HENRY MORGENTHAU

Former American Ambassador at Constantinople

In Collaboration with FRENCH STROTHER

Copyrighted in the United States. Great Britain, Newfoundland, and other countries by Doubleday, Page & Co., 1921

LL through the winter of 1913-14, though busily engaged in mastering my other duties as Ambassador, there were constantly two problems interesting me.

The first was the American missionary activities, whose ramifications reached into all parts of Turkey, and whose many and varied requests, though intelligently interpreted by Dr. W. W. Peet, I could not fully grasp, owing to the meagreness of my knowledge of the men and women concerned, and of the physical conditions surrounding them in their activities in the interior of Turkey. I was at the seat of government of all these missionary activities, and had become well acquainted with the directing forces. Doctor Peet had shown me his vast records, and had acquainted me with the many branches, and told me of the many representatives that they had scattered throughout Turkey. Occasionally, visits from some of the interior missionaries had impressed me SO favorably both as to their sincerity and sympathy for their flocks, that I became thoroughly aroused with a desire to see the entire mechanism of the missionary activities in Turkey. I personally wanted to know the administrative and educational forces, and visit the buildings and surroundings in which they were operating, so that I might be able properly to present their claims to the Turkish officials, and finally give an intelligent account to those of my friends in America who had so anxiously impressed upon me the deep interest felt by such a vast number of them in the welfare of the missionaries.

My second problem was the Jewish question, which I will discuss in a separate chapter. Naturally I concluded to visit first the Holy Land and the Mediterranean Coast of Asia,

where so many of the important Christian missions were located. When I spoke to different people concerning this trip, everyone urged me to go. The Turkish authorities felt that it would greatly benefit them if I could, with my own eyes, see the possibilities of an industrial and agricultural revival of Turkey, for, thereafter, I might be useful to them in influencing foreign capital to invest in their prospects. The missionaries were enthusiastic. They expected-and I afterward ascertained were justified in this-that a visit to their main stations by the American Ambassador would so impress the local authorities both at those places and at Constantinople, that their standing with, and their treatment by, the Turkish officials, would be greatly improved. My Jewish friends, similarly, felt that such a tangible evidence of American and my personal interest in their condition, would greatly benefit them with the authorities. The men in the Embassy who now realized how easily an "outsider" could master the knowledge that lay buried in the records of the Chancery, also encouraged my scheme to delve further into the outside ramifications of American activity in Turkey.

The best and most direct transportation to Palestine was supplied by the splendid Russian steamship lines that were then plying weekly between Odessa and Alexandria, and as these boats stopped for a day at Smyrna, and another day at Piræus, I should thereby be enabled to visit the Consul and the American College at Smyrna, and to view the interesting sights of Athens. I therefore chose this route.

As the journey was made for the purpose of studying two distinct problems, I think it well to describe in this chapter all the things that are of general interest, reserving for a later

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These caves, covered with stone mausoleums, are the authentic tombs of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, and of Leah, Rebecca, and Sarah. They were maintained with religious care by the Jews from the time of the death of the patriarchs down to the Moslem conquest of Palestine and since that time have been maintained with equal veneration by the Mohammedans themselves, who have built a mosque over them. Until Mr. Morgenthau's visit, in 1912, no Jew or Christian had been permitted to visit these tombs since they were captured by the Mohammedans

chapter the highly specialized Jewish question. as I saw and studied it in Palestine. I shall not weary the reader with a complete record of the journey, but shall select for him some interesting incidents and observations without following too closely their chronological order.

Of these, one of the most interesting (and one that involved several amusing complications) was my visit to the Caves of Machpelah. When Doctor Peet heard of my plans to visit Palestine, he came to see me and spent a long time in informing me of what I could see, and of the tremendous benefit that it would be to me and to the missionaries to become personally acquainted. This was a helpful service, and I gratefully made notes out of his suggestions.

When they were finished, I was somewhat puzzled at first when he launched into a long dissertation upon the unique advantage

And, so

which 1, as an ambassador, enjoyed in being able to secure permission to visit the Caves of Machpelah. He explained that these caves were the authentic graves of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, of Sarah, Leah, and Rebecca. He added the curious information that the Moslems regarded these patriarchs as among the holiest of the saints of Islam. jealous were they in their religious veneration of these tombs that, by an extraordinary paradox, they have for one thousand years prohibited not only the Christ ans, but the blood descendants of Abraham, the Jews, from visiting these tombs. The Moslems had erected a mosque over them, and they were guarded day and night. The only exception to the rule that none but Mohammedans might visit them, was that the privilege was extended to visiting princes of royal blood, and to

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ambassadors, who represented, not nations, but the persons of their sovereigns. Doctor Peet then enlarged again upon the extraordinary opportunity which this privilege gave me of enjoying a unique experience.

Light had now dawned upon me, and I asked Doctor Peet a question which I intentionally drew out into a long sentence, so as to study the effect upon him. I asked him whether my inference that this great interest which he displayed in my trip and the importance which he attached to the opportunities incident to my travelling not, as a private citizen, but as an ambassador, could be construed by me as a hint on his part of a lurking wish that he might accompany me.

Doctor Peet was usually so serious that I did not know how he would respond. He answered me quite earnestly: "Well, really, that was my object in telling you all about it." I told him I fully realized how valuable his company would be, especially in arranging my meetings with the missionaries, and I most cordially

invited him to come with me. A few days later, Peet called again, and said to me: "You know, I have been thinking a great deal about our trip. I shall be able to render the assistance you expect of me in Palestine; but when you visit Syria and Galilee, you ought to have with you Dr. Franklin Hoskins of Beirut, who is a great Arabic scholar and in charge. of the missions there, and knows everybody in and everything about that region." I ended the interview with an invitation for him as well. "But," I said: "If I invite Hoskins, shall I not slight Dr. Howard Bliss, President of the Protestant Syrian College at Beirut, who was introduced to me at a luncheon given for that purpose in New York by my warm friend, Cleveland H. Dodge, and whom I had then promised to visit at Beirut?" Then Peet said: "Why not invite Bliss, too? He would be a great acquisition to the party." "But," I added, "this won't do, unless I also invite his daughter and her husband, Cleveland E. Dodge." So I invited these various parties,

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The Samaritans live in Nabulus except during Easter week when they live in tents on the hills to the north of Jerusalem

and received prompt acceptances. But, this, would interfere with the activities of the Emby no means, completes the story.

A few days later, Mr. Schmavonian, who had been connected with the Embassy for seventeen years as the Turkish adviser, and who was the custodian of the tradition of the Embassy, awaited me in my office one afternoon after, as I subsequently discovered, he had carefully instructed the doorkeeper not to announce any one for half an hour. He pointed out to me with great detail that American Ambassadors had come and gone out of Constantinople, "while Schmavonian went on forever." He then said: "Now, the benefits of all this knowledge that can be secured on this trip, will be lost when you leave Constantinople. Why not take me along, and perpetuate them?" I laughingly asked him how long he expected to stay in the service of the United States, and he answered that he expected to die in it. Fortunately, his expectation has not not yet been fulfilled, as he is still rendering valuable services in the State Department at Washington. I hesitated about taking Mr. Schmavonian along, and I told him so, as I feared it

bassy. He quickly responded: "You know that nothing important will be done in your absence without your consent, so why not have me with you at your elbow, so that you can have the benefit of my advice in deciding the problems that may come up in performing your duties as ambassador, while you are travelling?" I cabled the State Department. and got their consent to take him with me, and he proved of invaluable assistance.

My party then numbered six, besides my family. But, one day in Cairo, where I stopped en route to Palestine, I was approached by Chancellor McCormick of the University. of Pittsburgh. After introducing himself, and exchanging the compliments of the day, he said: "I hear you are going to visit the Caves of Machpelah. I would not have the audacity to ask you upon so informal an acquaintance [about twenty minutes] for permission to accompany you, but if you want to do a real favor to the three thousand girls and boys who attend the Pittsburgh University, by enabling them to hear from me all about the Caves of

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