Charybdis. Already I fancied that I heard the hollow roarings of the rocks, the dashing of the waves, and the howling of the sea dogs; I pictured the form of Scylla fair above and death below, and seemed to behold the enormous gulfs that swallowed the waters and again threw them out to the heavens; but instead of all this, I beheld on the Calabrian shore a large rock, and on the other hand a low sandy point, between which two the waters flowed very peaceably without the least ripple or dimple on its surface.

"Scylla is a large rock on the northern side of the entrance adjacent to the shore, and has a few small rocks before it in the water. On the beach, around the foot of it and on the hill behind it, is built the modern town of Sciglio, and on the rock itself is the citadel of the place. From this to the point of the Pharos (formerly Pelorus) on the opposite side is about two miles. Within this point is the site of Charybdis, but we could perceive nothing like a whirlpool in the place. When however the current sets strongly through the strait, this place is full of eddies which would swallow up small boats and even give a great deal of trouble to large ships. This was the case with the Strombolo bomb ship, which (as I was informed by her officers in Malta) was seized by one of them while under full sail and whirled quite round. It is indeed to be expected that they must be strong when the current sets through fast from the westward, for all the water that is heaped up by the winds between Sicily and Italy has to take its course through here; and being interrupted in its

passage by the long point of the Pharos, which projects directly across the channel, it naturally occasions those whirlpools which so perplex those who keep on this side the strait.

"The danger on the other side arises from the current which sets strongly upon the Calabrian shore, and those vessels, that to avoid the whirlpools of Charybdis keep too much on the other side, will run a risk of being lost upon Scylla or other rocks upon that coast.

"In moderate weather there is not the least dan

ger for the smallest boat to venture in any part of it, and a knowledge of the currents enables the moderns to pass it in safety at any time.

"We passed through with fair weather, and calm water, and entered the strait that divides Italy from Sicily. The country on either side is charmingly beautiful. It rises in a gradual manner from the sea to the summits of the mountains, and is adorned with palaces, country houses, and woods

"And hamlets grey and dim discover'd spires;"

and on either shore the towns of Messina and Regio. The surface of the water was without an inequality, and was full of boats fishing for the pisci spada or sword fish, which is struck with a harpoon. Ahead of us was a large shoal of the moraca or finner, a fish of the cetaceous kind, which, by constantly leaping up and spouting up the water, covered the sea all around with foam.

"About twilight we entered the harbour of Messina.

"7th. The harbour of Messina is in the form of a crescent, or as its Greek name, Zancle, implies, of a sickle. It is bordered by a stone quay, along which formerly extended a row of elegant houses the whole length of the town. These, from what at present remains of them, appear to have formed a beautiful front; but this whole extent is now in ruins since the great earthquake of 1784, which almost entirely destroyed the city. All the houses bounding on the harbour, and many parts of the interior of the city, now lie a heap of ruins and exhibit a melancholy testimony of the force of the concussion. The greater part of the place is rebuilt, and the houses in general are handsome. The streets are however narrow and rather dark.

"The public squares are adorned with statues and fountains, and some of the buildings that remain unhurt by the earthquake show the former magnificence of the place.

"The cathedral has nothing remarkable in its exterior, but interiorly is spacious and lofty, and has an altar piece of massy silver which makes a most splendid appearance when lighted up. The grand aisle is covered by a noble arch which is supported by very large marble pillars.

"There appears to be less poverty here than at Marsalla; the people are in general better dressed and have the air of business. In the harbour are a

number of ships, which indicate a considerable share of commerce.

"We saw the governor of the town pass in his coach. His footmen were clothed in a manner resembling the Pandour dress. Men, who have nothing to value themselves on but their office, imagine that, to impress on the multitude a proper idea of their greatness, it is necessary to assume a grotesque appearance; hence large wigs, robes of state, &c. &c.; and it is perhaps not a bad scheme for those whose real abilities are not sufficient to distinguish them; for a merryandrew in his mottled coat is gazed on by the populace with an admiration little inferior to what would be expected by a demigod.

"The government seems to have little confidence in the people. The town is full of soldiers, and guards are stationed at every corner. Even their own soldiers have not much confidence placed in them, for they are not entrusted with the citadel or any of the forts, which are garrisoned with English troops.

"The populace are fond of being amused with puppet shows, and they are always to be seen exhibited in the streets, both in the day and by torch light at night, where they draw great crowds of spectators, who do not begrudge a few bayoes to have their eyes feasted with these spectacles.

"During the night there are a number of boats which row about the harbour taking fish. There is a large fire kept burning on the bow of the boat, the Tight of which draws the fish about it, and at the

same time serves to discover them to a man who stands ready to strike them with a spear.

"The quay is adorned with a statue of Charles of Bourbon, and with a fountain, which represents Neptune holding Scylla and Charybdis in chains.

"(N. B. This same Mr. Neptune was a celebrated pilot! So I am informed by a capuchin friar, who saw me looking at the statue, and, after having begged a few grains for the love of the holy Virgin, thought he must not let me remain ignorant of this matter.)

"In the strada Ferdinando, which is the first from the quay, to which it runs parallel, there is erected a colossal statue to the present king as the restorer of Messina. Not far distant in the same street, there is a gaol, erected by this monarch in 1784.

"Towards the bottom of the harbour, in a large square near where formerly was the arsenal, is a statue of Don John of Austria. In the square before the great church is an equestrian statue of Charles III. of Spain. And on the other side of the way a fountain, but noways remarkable.

"The altar piece of the great church is elegantly constructed with inlaid work of marble, and at the back part has two pillars of lapislazuli valued at their weight in gold. The part of the altar fronting the body of the church is entirely covered with massy silver gilded over.

"In all the churches of the city, the bells are kept almost continually tinkling; so that there is hardly a moment's interval throughout the day. During the