NARRATIVE

OF

THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER I.

BOWDITCH ISLAND.

184 0.

As has before been stated, the Peacock and Flying-Fish left Oahu on the 2d December, 1840, under instructions which will be found in Appendix VIII., Vol. IV. They steered off to the southward until they reached the latitude of 5° N., and longitude 160° W., a position in which it was thought that an island existed. This position was carefully examined, until they were satisfied that there was no land at or near the locality. They then steered for Washington Island, known on the chart of Arrowsmith as New York Island, which was found and surveyed. Its position is in latitude 4° 41′ 35′′ N., and longitude 160° 15' 37" W. It is three and a quarter miles long by one and a fourth wide, and is entirely covered with cocoa-nut and other trees, exhibiting a most luxuriant growth. There is a reef off its eastern point, which extends for half a mile. a coral ledge extends two miles in a northwest-by-west direction, on which the water appears much discoloured, but the sea was not seen to break upon it, except close to the point of the island. The island is elevated about ten feet above the sea. The surf proved too heavy to allow of their landing, and the island affords no anchorage. While

At the western end,

off this island, the current was found setting to the northeast, at the rate of twelve miles in the twenty-four hours.

The positions in this neighbourhood where five islands have been reported to exist, were diligently searched for eight days; but no land was seen, and Captain Hudson became satisfied that none but Washington Island is to be found.

On the 20th December, they made Jarvis's Island, in latitude 0° 22′ 33′′ S., and longitude 159° 54' 11" W. This is a small coral island, triangular in shape, a mile and three-fourths in length east and west, and a mile wide north and south. It exhibits the appearance of a white sand-beach, ten or twelve feet above the sea, without a tree or shrub, and but a few patches of grass. The sea breaks violently around its shores, but no reef extends to any distance from the island, which may be closely approached. A few sea-birds were seen about the island. No landing could be attempted, the surf being too heavy. Captain Hudson considers this a dangerous island for navigators.

The Peacock and Flying-Fish, for the next fifteen days, were engaged in searching for Brooks's Island, Clark's Reef, and shoals; but without success, and, after examining the neighbouring sea, left the locality, fully satisfied that if any islands or shoals had existed, in or near the places assigned to them, they must have been seen. They experienced here a current, setting to the westward at the rate of a mile an hour. Captain Hudson remarked, that although they had experienced generally a current setting to the westward, yet, almost invariably, the current-log gave a contrary result.

In latitude 2° 55′ S., longitude 160° 26' W., they found, by the dipping-needle, that they had reached the magnetic equator, which they followed until they reached longitude 171° W.

On the 9th January, 1841, they made Enderbury's Island, of the Phoenix Group, which has before been spoken of, as seen in the route of the Vincennes from the Feejee to the Sandwich Islands.

On the 11th, they made and surveyed Birnie's Island, which lies southwest from Enderbury's, in latitude 3° 34′ 15" S., longitude 171° 33′ W. It has an elevation of no more than six feet above the sea; is about one mile long and a quarter of a mile wide, trending about northwest and southeast. It is but a strip of coral, apparently uplifted, and is exceedingly dangerous for vessels, as it cannot be seen from a distance, and a vessel, in thick weather, would scarcely have time to avoid it after it was discovered.

A number of islands and reefs, reported to exist, were searched for in this neighbourhood, viz.: Mary Balcout's, Brothers', Robertson's, Phoenix, Harper's, and others, laid down, but not named, all of which are believed to have no existence whatever.

On the 17th January, they made Hull's Island, which has already been described, and was surveyed by the Vincennes. The party of Tahitians employed in taking turtles, had left it. Captain Hudson, believing this to be Sydney Island, ran off forty-five miles to the westward, for Hull's Island, but, of course, saw nothing of it, as it lies that distance to the eastward, in the same latitude.

The position of an island supposed to exist in latitude 5° 23' S., and longitude 173° 25′ W., was passed, but no signs of land were seen. They then ran over the supposed place of Fletcher's Island, in latitude 7° 02' S., longitude 173° 22′ W., without seeing any shoal, island, or reef.

The effects of the rainy season were now felt in these latitudes, in sudden gusts of wind, with torrents of rain, that continued for a few hours of the night, and cleared up partially towards sunrise, after which the weather continued cloudy throughout the day, with squalls visible in various parts of the horizon. Our experience corroborated the generally conceived idea that this kind of weather usually occurs near small islands; but that these isolated spots, of such comparatively small size, can exert so great an influence in arresting and condensing the vapour, is not to me a satisfactory explanation. I am rather inclined to believe that it results more from the fact of the high temperature of the ocean in the neighbourhood, it being here nearly 90°, or several degrees greater than that of any other part of the ocean; consequently, the evaporation would go on much more rapidly, which, becoming condensed in the higher portion of the atmosphere, is again thrown down in copious streams at night. This is particularly the case when the trade-winds are interrupted, that would otherwise carry off the vapour. As far as respects the interrupting or arresting the flow of currents, these islands may exert some influence; but the main cause I should be inclined to impute to the high temperature acquired by the water in consequence of there being no currents.

The next day they proceeded to the Duke of York's Island, which they made on the 25th, in latitude 8° 36′ 00′′ S., longitude 172° 23′ 52" W. This is a lagoon island, of coral formation: its length east