The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21. 5. 2002 - Počet stran: 313 In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Strana vii
... Richard , earl of Dorset , 1616 4. After Isaac Oliver , Henry , Prince of Wales , c . 1610 5. Daniel Mytens , Charles I , 1631 6. Roundhead and Cavalier , 1640s 7. Benjamin Keach , War with the Devil , 1676 8. Earl of Sandwich , Charles ...
... Richard , earl of Dorset , 1616 4. After Isaac Oliver , Henry , Prince of Wales , c . 1610 5. Daniel Mytens , Charles I , 1631 6. Roundhead and Cavalier , 1640s 7. Benjamin Keach , War with the Devil , 1676 8. Earl of Sandwich , Charles ...
Strana viii
... Richard Earlom, John Wilkes, no date 26. Sir George Reed, Samuel Smiles, no date 27. Sir Daniel Macnee, John Ramsey McCulloch, before 1840 28. Lowes Cato Dickinson, Richard Cobden, 1870 29. Adam Buck, Thomas Hope and his family, 1813 ...
... Richard Earlom, John Wilkes, no date 26. Sir George Reed, Samuel Smiles, no date 27. Sir Daniel Macnee, John Ramsey McCulloch, before 1840 28. Lowes Cato Dickinson, Richard Cobden, 1870 29. Adam Buck, Thomas Hope and his family, 1813 ...
Strana 19
... Richard Allestree sermonized in 1659.5 In their response to the presumed loss of an obvious social hierarchy, social commentators called for the maintenance of a sartorial order whereby consumption would make the social order perfectly ...
... Richard Allestree sermonized in 1659.5 In their response to the presumed loss of an obvious social hierarchy, social commentators called for the maintenance of a sartorial order whereby consumption would make the social order perfectly ...
Strana 22
... military posture went hand in hand with his sartorial display of plume , embroidery , and silk hose . Courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery , London . Figure 3. Isaac Oliver, Richard, earl of Dorset, 1616. Richard.
... military posture went hand in hand with his sartorial display of plume , embroidery , and silk hose . Courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery , London . Figure 3. Isaac Oliver, Richard, earl of Dorset, 1616. Richard.
Strana 23
England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta. Figure 3. Isaac Oliver, Richard, earl of Dorset, 1616. Richard Sackville, the third earl of Dorset, was unabashed about his sartorial splendor, and visually linked that splendor with the military function ...
England, 1550–1850 David Kuchta. Figure 3. Isaac Oliver, Richard, earl of Dorset, 1616. Richard Sackville, the third earl of Dorset, was unabashed about his sartorial splendor, and visually linked that splendor with the military function ...
Obsah
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
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