The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21. 5. 2002 - Počet stran: 313 In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Strana 4
... called the "great mascu- line renunciation," the adoption of a more modest and sober image of masculinity that began with Charles II's vest and took full shape in the eighteenth century. It is in the nineteenth century that this great ...
... called the "great mascu- line renunciation," the adoption of a more modest and sober image of masculinity that began with Charles II's vest and took full shape in the eighteenth century. It is in the nineteenth century that this great ...
Strana 5
... called a semiotic revolution, for it was a revo- lution that altered English status symbols, signs of English male gentil- ity, and signs of Englishness itself. The sartorial revolution of the late seventeenth century was an important ...
... called a semiotic revolution, for it was a revo- lution that altered English status symbols, signs of English male gentil- ity, and signs of Englishness itself. The sartorial revolution of the late seventeenth century was an important ...
Strana 10
... called a feminist Burkean reading of English polit- ical culture from 1550 to 1850 , one where the politics of style is central to the style of politics . By analyzing the ways in which masculine sobri- ety qualified men for civil ...
... called a feminist Burkean reading of English polit- ical culture from 1550 to 1850 , one where the politics of style is central to the style of politics . By analyzing the ways in which masculine sobri- ety qualified men for civil ...
Strana 11
... , positive evaluation of passions, interests, and virtue.38 And Michael Ignatieff, Donald Winch, and others have taken a renewed interest in the so-called “ Adam Smith problem " by attempting to understand the Conspicuous Constructions 11.
... , positive evaluation of passions, interests, and virtue.38 And Michael Ignatieff, Donald Winch, and others have taken a renewed interest in the so-called “ Adam Smith problem " by attempting to understand the Conspicuous Constructions 11.
Strana 14
... called democratization of luxury (certainly an overstatement) created for cultural elites involves looking at the new theories of taste that emerged after 1700 to redefine aristocratic status. As goods became more widely available ...
... called democratization of luxury (certainly an overstatement) created for cultural elites involves looking at the new theories of taste that emerged after 1700 to redefine aristocratic status. As goods became more widely available ...
Obsah
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
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