The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21. 5. 2002 - Počet stran: 313 In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Strana 4
... effeminacy. Since 1666, there of course have been numerous exceptions and vis- ible resistance to this general trend toward simplicity. It is these gallants and fops who received all the scandalized condemnation from contem- poraries ...
... effeminacy. Since 1666, there of course have been numerous exceptions and vis- ible resistance to this general trend toward simplicity. It is these gallants and fops who received all the scandalized condemnation from contem- poraries ...
Strana 6
... effeminacy of their political opponents. Since 1666, men's fashion change has been motivated by a masculinist an- tipathy to fashion, itself driven by attempts to legitimize elite men's so- cial, economic, or political power. This is a ...
... effeminacy of their political opponents. Since 1666, men's fashion change has been motivated by a masculinist an- tipathy to fashion, itself driven by attempts to legitimize elite men's so- cial, economic, or political power. This is a ...
Strana 10
... effeminacy " would hold no political weight . What was obvious to contemporaries was not that only men held political power , but that , like femininity , masculinity was a conspicuous construction , one that needed constant ...
... effeminacy " would hold no political weight . What was obvious to contemporaries was not that only men held political power , but that , like femininity , masculinity was a conspicuous construction , one that needed constant ...
Strana 11
... effeminacy were means of excluding not only women, but other men, from power. Both by mak- ing masculinity a prerequisite to political legitimacy and by claiming masculinity as their own, men in power used the label of effeminacy to ...
... effeminacy were means of excluding not only women, but other men, from power. Both by mak- ing masculinity a prerequisite to political legitimacy and by claiming masculinity as their own, men in power used the label of effeminacy to ...
Strana 13
... effeminacy were insults aimed at one's social or political enemies. How one defined consumption, how one dis- tinguished between productive consumption and destructive luxury, de- pended on one's social, political, moral, and economic ...
... effeminacy were insults aimed at one's social or political enemies. How one defined consumption, how one dis- tinguished between productive consumption and destructive luxury, de- pended on one's social, political, moral, and economic ...
Obsah
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
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