The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21. 5. 2002 - Počet stran: 313 In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Strana 3
... effeminate " manners . It was good manners , or " principles , early and deeply in- grafted in the mind , " as Rev. Brown understood it , that would prevent England from falling into ruin . For contemporaries , it was manners upon which ...
... effeminate " manners . It was good manners , or " principles , early and deeply in- grafted in the mind , " as Rev. Brown understood it , that would prevent England from falling into ruin . For contemporaries , it was manners upon which ...
Strana 4
... effeminate fops. In the main, proper male gentility was signified before 1688 by noble magnifi- cence, and after 1688 by refined simplicity. The end of the seventeenth century thus witnessed the triumph of a strategy among gentlemen of ...
... effeminate fops. In the main, proper male gentility was signified before 1688 by noble magnifi- cence, and after 1688 by refined simplicity. The end of the seventeenth century thus witnessed the triumph of a strategy among gentlemen of ...
Strana 10
... effeminate " men . 33 From 1550 to 1850 , effeminacy and luxury were seen as being among the chief " political vices , " 34 along with corruption , anarchy , and tyranny . For the late Tudor and Stuart courts , sumptuous dress was part ...
... effeminate " men . 33 From 1550 to 1850 , effeminacy and luxury were seen as being among the chief " political vices , " 34 along with corruption , anarchy , and tyranny . For the late Tudor and Stuart courts , sumptuous dress was part ...
Strana 11
... effeminate and prodigal parasites living off a virtuous and industrious nation. In middle- class political discourse, masculine character remained a means for de- termining political legitimacy, but this character was now an attribute ...
... effeminate and prodigal parasites living off a virtuous and industrious nation. In middle- class political discourse, masculine character remained a means for de- termining political legitimacy, but this character was now an attribute ...
Strana 12
... effeminate , while English wool was useful , sober , and manly . It was thus men's conditions and manners that would maintain a positive balance of trade . In calling upon gentle- men to reform their luxurious ways , mercantilists ...
... effeminate , while English wool was useful , sober , and manly . It was thus men's conditions and manners that would maintain a positive balance of trade . In calling upon gentle- men to reform their luxurious ways , mercantilists ...
Obsah
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
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