The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21. 5. 2002 - Počet stran: 313 In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Strana 5
... merely one social dynamic that motivates fashion change: understanding the variety of systems of consumer behavior means identifying how social and gender groups at different historical moments used consumer objects in a number of ...
... merely one social dynamic that motivates fashion change: understanding the variety of systems of consumer behavior means identifying how social and gender groups at different historical moments used consumer objects in a number of ...
Strana 6
... mere fashion—an ideology that triumphed in the sev- enteenth century—that allowed (and allows) men's fashion to ... merely provides a lens through which to study the more important political, social, and economic transformations of ...
... mere fashion—an ideology that triumphed in the sev- enteenth century—that allowed (and allows) men's fashion to ... merely provides a lens through which to study the more important political, social, and economic transformations of ...
Strana 7
... merely supplemen- tary to, the structure of power. Power was rarely naked in early modern England. The wardrobe of power was itself a form of power, and thus impor- tant to political culture precisely because it embodied social, sexual ...
... merely supplemen- tary to, the structure of power. Power was rarely naked in early modern England. The wardrobe of power was itself a form of power, and thus impor- tant to political culture precisely because it embodied social, sexual ...
Strana 9
... merely civic life.21 Historians of eighteenth-century France have been in the forefront of this shift, demonstrating how ideals of mas- culinity and femininity were important in defining a new political cul- ture in the revolutionary ...
... merely civic life.21 Historians of eighteenth-century France have been in the forefront of this shift, demonstrating how ideals of mas- culinity and femininity were important in defining a new political cul- ture in the revolutionary ...
Strana 13
... merely reflected) through cultural forms, how social identities were cre- ated through material culture and consumer behavior. Throughout the period under study, consumption was a socially defined category. As a concept used in ...
... merely reflected) through cultural forms, how social identities were cre- ated through material culture and consumer behavior. Throughout the period under study, consumption was a socially defined category. As a concept used in ...
Obsah
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
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