The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850University of California Press, 21. 5. 2002 - Počet stran: 313 In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together. Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. |
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Strana 2
... modesty and plain- ness in dress. Eschewing fashion as an increasingly feminized realm, Charles II's vest inaugurated a new and essentially modern era of mas- culine aesthetics, one that reversed a long-held association between elab ...
... modesty and plain- ness in dress. Eschewing fashion as an increasingly feminized realm, Charles II's vest inaugurated a new and essentially modern era of mas- culine aesthetics, one that reversed a long-held association between elab ...
Strana 4
... modesty in male dress after 1688, a modesty that conformed to Charles II's original reso- lution, and to the prescriptions of courtesy manuals, economic tracts, religious writings, political treatises, and social criticism. They ...
... modesty in male dress after 1688, a modesty that conformed to Charles II's original reso- lution, and to the prescriptions of courtesy manuals, economic tracts, religious writings, political treatises, and social criticism. They ...
Strana 5
... modesty was still a form of display. And as a form of display, even modesty itself was susceptible to calls for further renun- ciation of display. Inconspicuous consumption was still a form of con- sumer behavior, subject to the same ...
... modesty was still a form of display. And as a form of display, even modesty itself was susceptible to calls for further renun- ciation of display. Inconspicuous consumption was still a form of con- sumer behavior, subject to the same ...
Strana 6
... modesty in contrast to the presumed luxury and effeminacy of their political opponents. Since 1666, men's fashion change has been motivated by a masculinist an- tipathy to fashion, itself driven by attempts to legitimize elite men's so ...
... modesty in contrast to the presumed luxury and effeminacy of their political opponents. Since 1666, men's fashion change has been motivated by a masculinist an- tipathy to fashion, itself driven by attempts to legitimize elite men's so ...
Strana 20
... modesty, and ci- vility thereof, by their mannish complements, and ruffianly attire: and how are our men (as it were) transformed into women, by their lascivi- ous, effeminate, and wanton imitations, none being content with their own ...
... modesty, and ci- vility thereof, by their mannish complements, and ruffianly attire: and how are our men (as it were) transformed into women, by their lascivi- ous, effeminate, and wanton imitations, none being content with their own ...
Obsah
1 | |
17 | |
3 The SeventeenthCentury Fashion Crisis | 51 |
4 The ThreePiece Suit | 77 |
5 Masculinity in the Age of Chivalry 16881832 | 91 |
6 The Making of the SelfMade Man 17501850 | 133 |
7 Inconspicuous Consumption | 173 |
Notes | 179 |
Bibliography | 253 |
Index | 295 |
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