VEGETABLE GROWING IN OREGON.

By O. E. FREYTAG, County Fruit Inspector for Clackamas County.

No phase of agriculture is developing more rapidly than market gardening and at no time has the work received greater support. The population of the State is increasing so rapidly that the demand for vegetables exceeds the supply. Many gardeners are specializing along certain lines of vegetables which they have brought to a high point of development, producing a product the market is ever ready for.

Among the first crops is the palatable asparagus. No garden, whether for home or market, is complete without an asparagus bed. The plants adapt themselves to any fairly good soil and climate, but thrive best in sandy loam or beaver dam. The better the soil the better the yield.

How to Plant an Asparagus Bed.-Make the rows preferably north and south, four feet apart. The plow going up and down at least twice through the furrow, digging the trench at least six to eight inches deep. Then stretch a string down the furrow, and set the plants every 20 to 24 inches in the row. Spread the roots out carefully, covering them three to four inches. After the shoots appear more soil may be added. Don't cut the asparagus the first year and very little if any the second year; the third year begin cutting and as the plant grows older the season for cutting may be lengthened.

Rhubarb is a valuable and productive early vegetable, and when grown in the right manner produces an enormous yield. The manner of planting is very much the same as asparagus. When rhubarb is grown by expert growers, the stalks are often over two feet long and perfectly tender.

Celery is another immense money crop, and those gardeners who specialize in this particular class are enjoying good results. There are a number of methods used to blanch celery. In Oregon, where lumber is cheap, board banking is preferred to the old way of dirt banking. This is quickly done and gives good satisfaction. The greatest care is in preparing it for the market, so that it arrives at its destination in good shape.

Cabbage and cauliflower are valuable crops in Oregon. Climatic conditions are such that certain varieties of cauliflower can remain unprotected in the field throughout the winter, supplying the fresh product when there is little else to be obtained in the market. For early cabbage, seed sown in September and transplanted in November and December, produce early crops and the land can be used for a second crop. Soil should be selected that has good drainage. While the plants do not make a large growth during the winter, they build up a good root system, and upon the arrival of congenial weather come rapidly to maturity. Cabbage will thrive upon most any soil, but a sandy loam is preferable, because the soil can be cultivated at any time. Cabbage is a great feeder and requires good, rich soil, and plenty of cultivation. Care should be taken not to plant it too close to get the best results, especially the winter varieties. Plants three feet each way will give you

4,840 per acre; at this rate you can secure larger heads and it will give a greater tonnage than closer planting. Great care should be taken to get the best seed. In no truck crop does the character of the seed count for more than in cabbage. The grower cannot afford to risk his crop for a small saving. This is true of all kinds of seed. There is no greater disappointment than to discover that your labor for the season has been useless, because you have bought cheap and useless seeds. The year is spent and nothing for it but failure. One often blames the soil and weather conditions, when the seed is at fault. Some of the best varieties for Oregon are Early Jersey Wakefield or Charleston Wakefield; late cabbage, the Danish Ball Head (imported seed), is chiefly grown for storage and sour kraut. Care should be taken when transplanting in hot weather, when evaporation is rapid. It is at that season advisable to prune off most of the leaves; in this way the plant receives less check than it otherwise would. Seed beds for cabbage should be prepared in a new place each year, either broad cast, or in drills. Care must be taken to have healthy plants. It is well to sow a thin coat of salt on the soil and work it in before sowing the seed. This destroys the fungus that may be in the land, which causes club-root and other diseases.

In

Cauliflower plants are grown the same as cabbage plants, both the early and late varieties, and are transplanted in the same manner. order to have the plants grow rapidly and produce the desired quality of product, good cultivation must be given, and in order to do this, the plants should be set so as to cultivate both ways. If you will give the plants the necessary cultivation and float the land between the rows to conserve the moisture of the late planting, you will find that the aphis will not do so much harm, for the aphis will only attack the weak plants. When the cauliflower begins to head, in order to bleach, the leaves should be loosely gathered together and pinned with a toothpick, so as not to exclude air, but only to keep off most of the sunshine. To draw the leaves too close will scald the head, therefore let the plant have plenty of air. In case of shipping and packing the cauliflower should be cut early in the morning while they are cold. But if it is necessary to cut in the afternoon, care should be taken to spread them out over night so as to cool them before packing. They will stand shipping better and will keep much longer by this simple pre-cooling.

Onion-growing is one of the most profitable industries of Oregon. Soil and climate conditions are such as to produce a good onion, mild and withal a good shipper and keeper. Most any good soil will produce onions. However, some soils are better than others; the famous Oregon beaverdam land is without question the best.

How to Prepare the Onion Land.-Plow the land deep, pulverize and smooth it, let the land rest about two weeks then harrow thoroughly a second time and smooth it; in this way the first crop of weeds are destroyed that otherwise would have to be weeded by hand. This method of preparing the soil is good for any crop that is likely to require weeding. Onions require rich soil, and the cheapest manure for onion land is to sow early in September about 75 pounds of vetch seed, and in early spring plow this under, and good large onions will be the result. Another very essential way of helping the onion is to give the land a good dressing of salt about two weeks before planting. Onions like salt. To produce sweet onions they must be kept growing rapidly. Stunted onions are sharp and strong. Sow the seed as early as possible and not later than about the 1st of April. Onions should ripen about August 15th to 20th. The early crop brings good prices; the writer of this article has sown onion seeds as early as February 3rd and as late as

March 17th, and has begun to harvest August 5th.

Farmers living on

the uplands can grow onions as good as those produced on beaverdam land, but they must employ one of two systems. The seed should be sown in boxes in January or February; sow very thinly so as to produce strong plants. In May these may be transplanted to the field. Prune the roots and most of the top, leaving the plant about three and one-half inches long. Do not set too deep in the soil, preferably not over an inch. The other way is to sow the seeds early in June, not too thick, in drills; these will make good sets in August, which may then be planted immediately, for spring onions, or in spring for fall onions. Spring planting is preferable; good large onions are grown this way. The varieties giving the best results are the Oregon Globe Danvers; Prizetaker and Australian Brown are also good onions. However, before long some will grow the Bermuda Onions, which are of good quality and mature in about 75 days. Onions should be carefully and properly graded, the bulb must be clean and attractive, and not undersized. The shipper requires clean sacks properly filled and sewed. All this goes

to make money for the grower. The onions should be sorted into three grades, first or prime, second and picklings.

But

A Few Facts About Corn-Growing. Though Oregon is not considered a corn-growing State, especially stock or field corn, the acreage is increasing every year and very soon some one will produce a stock corn suited to Oregon climate. If the State of Oregon could import hot nights, lightning bugs and cyclones we might grow better corn. thanks; we will grow a little less field corn, and turn our attention to sweet corn. We can beat the cars growing sweet corn, which will net the grower $100 to $150 per acre and have the stalks for feed besides, and the demand for corn is good during the whole season, beginning about July 15th and lasting until December. The hogs and cattle enjoy the sweet corn just as well, and the stalks contain more saccharine, and it is really better than field corn. The sandy loam is best suited for corn-growing. Farmers on upland do grow good corn_by_more frequent cultivation, planting so as to cultivate both ways. Two crops might be grown successfully, if not planted too close together, by planting three feet each way and thinning to two stalks in a hill and in about every third hill dropping a pumpkin seed. The yellow field pumpkin does the best. There are many varieties of sweet corn and one must find out what variety is best adapted to the locality. Commonly the best early corn is the Mammoth White-Cob Cory. A very pleasant but small ear, is the Golden Bantam. Corn requires good cultivation; before laying it by, the land should be floated between the rows, thus conserving the moisture and making the corn fill out an inch beyond the husks.

Beans and peas are so common it is useless to comment on these, only to say do not sow the seed too thick if you desire good tender pods. There are several kinds of edible pod beans, such as the Stringless Green Pod. Davis Kidney Wax, a pole bean, the Kentucky Wonder; the Dwarf or Pole Horticultural is a good winter or dry bean. A good white or dry bean is the Imperial Tree bean, a heavy cropper, resembling the Navy bean. Beans require good cultivation to keep them free from weeds, and a great many mouths to eat them. Peas and beans are legumes and do not require too rich a soil, and make a good second crop, where early vegetables have been grown. One of the best early peas is the Early Gradus.

Tomatoes are chiefly grown by truck gardeners. However, every home-gardener and farmer can grow tomatoes successfully, if a few suggestions given are carried out. Tomato seed should be soaked in a solution of Bordeaux for 24 hours; this will in a measure destroy the

blight, which in many cases destroys a large per cent of the plant. Bluestone three pounds and lime six pounds is used in a case of this kind. Sow the seed as soon as possible in March in hotbeds. After about two inches high, transplant to cold frame, two inches apart each way. Expose them all you can, cover only on clear frosty nights. In so doing you harden the plants that they may be transplanted to the open field by the 10th to 15th of April. Do not use a dibble, but mark out the land, three and one-half feet between the rows, then draw the single furrow out, about three inches deep. In this furrow plant the tomatoes; lay the plant against one side of the furrow and put a little soil over the roots loosely, do not press it down. The warmth of the sun warms the roots closely under the soil and the plant starts at once. By planting with a dibble the roots are placed usually too deep where the ground is cold and the plant loses too much time. Set the plants 18 to 20 inches if staked, if not staked, 30 to 36 inches. To stake tomatoes use a stake an inch to one and a half inches, five feet long; drive it firmly into the ground, then tie the plant loosely but firmly to the stake. Care must be taken to pinch out all side shoots, allowing only the main leader to remain. The side shoots retard the growth and fruitage of the plant. Some train on frame, others let them grow as they please; whatever method is employed, remove the side shoots. Preparation of the soil is very important. Plow the soil deep, have the land fairly rich, and about two weeks before planting use 100 pounds of coarse salt per acre; this will destroy the fungus matter in the soil and will prevent tomato blight at least to a great degree. Give frequent cultivation, but not deep, and when vines are well loaded with fruit, float the land and begin picking ripe tomatoes. For an all round good crop the Jewell is a satisfactory variety. The Dwarf Champion is a good one.

Melons require hot nights, the same as corn, and are usually grown on sandy loam soil. The muskmelon does excellently well where good care and cultivation is given them. Watermelons are a paying crop in Southern Oregon, especially sections near transportation and good markets. The market requires a great quantity of melons, but care should be taken to grow the varieties the market requires. The Rocky Ford, Petosky and Emerald Gem are perhaps the best muskmelons for our western climate. Melons require rich soil well prepared, and before vines begin to cover the land, it should be floated to conserve the moisture of the soil. Try out your soil, build it up, make it produce large crops.

Potato-growing is the chief and most popular vegetable crop grown in Oregon. Thousands of carloads go to eastern and southern markets from this State annually. The farmers should take more care to plant potatoes true to type and also those varieties the markets require. Seed selection is most important. Every farmer should select the seed at digging time, when perfect specimens and good hills can be selected. Potatoes true to type should be planted; off shapes are likely to produce ill shaped potatoes, and at the same time the quality and quantity must be considered. The importance of good seed is only appreciated by those that have made the potato culture a study, which every farmer should do. Improve your potato seed, as well as other crops. Improve the strain of your poultry, hogs, cows and all else that go to make up a systematic farm. How can this be accomplished? By careful seed selection year after year, by noting results and keeping accurate accounts of season of planting and harvest and the manner of preparing the soil and planting the seed.

After careful experiment with the soil to be worked, a full knowledge of frost conditions, and of the needs of the market through whose medium the products are to be disposed of, vegetables should be chosen