That Oceanic Feeling

Přední strana obálky
Allen & Unwin, 2005 - Počet stran: 286
The story of Fiona Capp, who, when she was a teenager had been a keen surfer - When she turned forty, she decided to go on a personal journey and surf around Australia's beaches.
 

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LibraryThing Review

Recenze od uživatele  - kenno82 - LibraryThing

This book has a bit of everything - nature, literature, travel and of course surfing. I loved the local landmarks. Strong on the nature writing, less so on the adventure side. Přečíst celou recenzi

That Oceanic Feeling

Recenze od uživatele  - Thorpe-Bowker and Contributors - Books+Publishing

This is a raritya book about surfing which combines writing that is both personal and personable, and that will be of interest to the non-surfer as well as the waxhead. Capp has managed to capture ... Přečíst celou recenzi

Obsah

Prologue I
1
THE IDEA OF SURFING
15
THAT LARGER PLAYGROUND
57
SKIMMING THE ABYSS
95
BIG WAVE HUNTING
125
THE PACIFIC SOLUTION
151
PARADISE PAVED
173
CIVILISED SURF? 2 II
211
SLOW BOAT TO ITHAKA
257
Selected Bibliography
280
Acknowledgements
285
Credits
286
Autorská práva

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Oblíbené pasáže

Strana 79 - I will go back to the great sweet mother, Mother and lover of men, the sea. I will go down to her, I and none other, Close with her, kiss her and mix her with me...
Strana 257 - Keep Ithaka always in your mind. Arriving there is what you're destined for. But don't hurry the journey at all. Better if it lasts for years, so you're old by the time you reach the island, wealthy with all you've gained on the way, not expecting Ithaka to make you rich. Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey. Without her you wouldn't have set out. She has nothing left to give you now. And if you find her poor, Ithaka won't have fooled you. Wise as you will have become, so full of experience, you'll...
Strana 49 - I am a part of all that I have met; Yet all experience is an arch wherethro' Gleams that untravell'd world, whose margin fades For ever and for ever when I move. How dull it is to pause, to make an end, To rust unburnish'd, not to shine in use ! As tho
Strana 10 - And I have loved thee, Ocean ! and my joy Of youthful sports was on thy breast to be Borne, like thy bubbles, onward : from a boy I wantoned with thy breakers — they to me Were a delight : and if the freshening sea Made them a terror — 'twas a pleasing fear, For I was as it were a child of thee, And trusted to thy billows far and near, And laid my hand upon thy mane — as I do here.
Strana 10 - I came among these hills; when like a roe I bounded o'er the mountains, by the sides Of the deep rivers, and the lonely streams, Wherever Nature led ; more like a man Flying from something that he dreads, than one Who sought the thing he loved.
Strana 54 - ... phenomenon. When any situation that is desired by the pleasure principle is prolonged, it only produces a feeling of mild contentment. We are so made that we can derive intense enjoyment only from a contrast and very little from a state of things.
Strana 33 - ... him, and had acquired sufficient force to carry his canoe before it, without passing underneath. He then sat motionless, and was carried along, at the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and weut in search of another swell.

O autorovi (2005)

Fiona Capp was born in Melbourne in 1963. She trained as a journalist, has a PhD in English and has worked as a freelance writer and university tutor in English, journalism and novel writing. She is the internationally published author of three works of non-fiction including

Bibliografické údaje