... him, and had acquired sufficient force to carry his canoe before it, without passing underneath. He then sat motionless, and was carried along, at the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his... That Oceanic Feeling - Strana 33autor/autoři: Fiona Capp - 2005 - 286 str.Omezený náhled - Podrobnosti o knize
| James Cook - 1842 - 644 str.
...landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and weut in search of another swell. I could not help concluding that this man felt the...did not seem in the least to envy, or even to take D кс 1777. 217 any notice of, the crowds of his countrymen collected to view them as objects which... | |
| John George Wood - 1870 - 888 str.
...landed him upon the beach, when he started out, emptied his canoe, and Ц in search of another swell. " I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he te driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea, especially as, though the tents and tops were so near,... | |
| Jean-Étienne Poirier - 2000 - 204 str.
...wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out... and went in search of another swell. I could not help concluding that this man felt the...while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea9 ... L'écrivaine et voyageuse Isabella Bird, au début du xixe, présenta également le surf comme... | |
| Kevin Desmond - 2001 - 130 str.
...Hawaii. In 1777. Captain James Cook concluded his description of a Tahitian surfer with the remark . "i could not help concluding that this man felt the...supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and smoothly by the sea." Dr. John HBali in his "Scrapbook of Surftiding and Beach Stuff" states that George... | |
| Stuart Holmes Coleman - 2004 - 292 str.
...it. Watching a native ride the waves in an outrigger canoe, Cook had once written in his journals, "I could not help concluding that this man felt the...was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea." With his pale skin and tall ships, Captain Cook may have been mistaken for the Hawaiian god Lono when... | |
| Matt Warshaw - 2004 - 390 str.
...Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, the wildly popular multivolume account of his third and final venture, "that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and smoothly by the sea." First written account of surfing. Bull's-eye. Having spent way too much time... | |
| Linda Chase - 2007 - 188 str.
...in the Islands. In 1777, Captain James Cook, upon seeing a man riding the waves in a canoe, wrote, "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so smoothly by the "Kahele and I watched the surf-swimming for some time, charmed with the spectacle."... | |
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