ings of devotion, than the proudest temple that was ever dedicated to the worship of the Supreme Being.

22d. Once more welcomed the sight of land! Indeed, I believe, we did catch a glimpse of Cape Finisterre in our passage, but it might have been a" camel" or a "whale ;"-this morning, however, the rock of Lisbon rose with clouded majesty within a few miles of us.

At eleven o'clock we fired a gun, and hoisted a signal for a pilot. A number of boats immediately put off to us, and the quickest sailer obtained the job.

Our first interview with the natives has not prepossessed us in their favour. From an uncouth clumsy boat we have taken in a meagre swarthy fellow, with a face as red as Kean's in Othello.

He soon gave us a sample of the choleric disposition of his nation. The captain seemed to doubt his skill, and sending below for his pistols, he intimated to the pilot, that if he should get his ship a-ground, he would, on that instant, shoot him through the head. The fellow was transported with indignation at this menace; and, though alone amongst strangers, he drew his knife, and threatened to revenge himself for the insult.

We crept along the shore at a snail's pace, and

did not anchor within the bar of the harbour till

ten at night.

23d. Beautiful day. Sailed up the Tagus. The view is certainly magnificent; but it has, I think, been over-rated by travellers. He who has seen London from Greenwich Park, may survey without any great astonishment the capital of Portugal. The finest feature is the river, compared with which the Thames sinks into insignificance. Each side has its peculiar beauties, and I doubt whether the left bank, with its vineyards and orange groves, does not attract the eye as much as the right, on which the town stands.

The entire absence of smoke is a striking novelty to an English eye, and at first gives an idea that the town must be without inhabitants.

Being tired of the sea, I resolved to stay at Lisbon;—almost the only place for which I had no passport. Some little difficulties occurred in consequence; but these were soon removed; and after a broiling walk in search of lodgings, we subsided at last in Reeves's hotel, Rua do Prior, Buenos Ayres ;-an excellent house, kept by an Englishman-full of cleanliness and comfort ;and these are qualities which one appreciates at their just value, after a walk through the streets of Lisbon.

Though travellers may have exaggerated the beauties of the view, I have seen no description that does justice to the indescribable nastiness of the town. I have spoken of the view from the river as magnificent, but I believe the true epithet would have been imposing; for it is mere deceit and delusion: the prestige vanishes at once on landing; and the gay and glittering city proves to be a painted sepulchre. Filth and beastliness assault you at every turn-in their most loathsome and disgusting shapes. In yielding to first impressions, one is generally led to exaggerate; but the abominations of Lisbon are incapable of exaggeration.

24th and 25th. Jaunted about Lisbon by land and water carriage. To walk about the streets is scarcely possible for an invalid. A clumsy sort of carriage on two wheels, driven by a postilion, with a pair of mules, is to be hired for the day, or the half day;-but not at a cheaper rate than one might hire a coach in London. A good idea of these carriages will be formed from the prints in the old editions of Gil Blas, since whose time no improvement seems to have taken place in vehicular architecture.

I have already experienced the truth of Mr. Bowdler's remark,-" that in Lisbon, under a

scorching sun, you are constantly exposed to a cold wind." The Portuguese guard against this by a large great coat, worn loose like a mantle, with hanging sinecure sleeves, and which they wrap round them when, in turning a corner, they encounter the wind. The use of this sweltering surtout, in some shape or other, is universal, even in the hottest weather;-but the remedy is perhaps worse than the disease.

There is something in the appearance of Lisbon that seems to portend an earthquake; and, instead of wondering that it was once visited by such a calamity, I am rather disposed to consider its daily preservation as a standing miracle. Repeated shocks have been felt of late years; and to an earthquake it may look, as its natural death. From the vestiges which the indolence of the people has allowed to remain, one might fancy the last convulsion had taken place but a few months. Many ruins are now standing just as the earthquake left them.-Gorgeous Palacesand-Solemn Temples-now totter in crumbling ruins, an awful monument of the fatal wreck. There are some streets, built since the earthquake, with trottoirs on each side, which make a handsome appearance; and, with any industry on the part of the people, the whole town might be

made one of the most cleanly in Europe;—the undulating nature of the ground being so well calculated for carrying away all impurities.

At present the only scavengers are the dogs, which roam about the streets in hordes, without homes or masters, seeking what they may devour. And indeed where all sorts of filth and offal are thrown into the street, till they shall be carried by the next shower into the Tagus, the dogs are not without their use; and the legislature has not been wholly inattentive to their accommodation. There is an old law obliging certain trades to keep a vessel of water at the door of their houses for the refreshment of these freebooters. Canine madness is, I am told, almost unknown here; and it is well that it is so. Upon the whole, the dogs behave very well,—except to one another; but it is uphill work to a new settler, for he must fight his way. They are strict preservers ;—if any dog is caught out of the limits of his own manor, he is proceeded against as a wilful trespasser without any notice.

26th. Rose at daybreak, and set out in a cabriolet with a stout pair of mules for Cintra. The scarcity of gold, and the depreciation of their vile paper money, exposed me to the inconvenience of carrying about a travelling treasury of silver crusados in a green baize bag, heavy with the weight