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No. 44. Astialakwa.-An interesting group of ruined buildings is situated on the high and almost inaccessible promontory, a mesa remnant, overlooking the ruin at the confluence of the east and west branches of Jemez creek, just described. The ruins stand a short distance back from the front of the promontory and near the brink of the cliffs on the west side (fig. 28, b). The walls are of unhewn stone, and bear evidence of hurried and apparently incomplete construction, there being a notable absence of débris of any kind. Traces of mortar occur in the walls, and a little plaster still remains on the interior surfaces. The walls are in no place more than five or six feet in height. The buildings are in a number of groups, as indicated roughly in the sketch.. There can be little doubt that this village was built at the period of Spanish encroachment by the people of the villages below as a place of refuge and defense, and it was here, according to historical accounts, that they were defeated by the Spaniards and compelled to descend to the lowlands.

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It is an interesting fact that along the margins of the precipice are traces of defensive works built of stone.

No. 45. Giusewa.-A ruined pueblo of considerable importance is situated at Jemez Hot Springs, twelve miles above Jemez pueblo. At present the chief feature of interest on this site is the ruin of a Spanish church, with its heavy walls and fortress-like tower. It has been constructed of materials derived from the immediate vicinity. The tower and upper parts are of the impure friable limestones of the promontory against which the foundations are built. The lower end of the church and the walled enclosure extend down to the border of the arroyo, and the latter has been built of heterogeneous materials. The adobe mortar has been made from the débris of ancient house sites and is full of fragments of pottery, obsidian chips, and charcoal.

Bandelier says that this pueblo "formed several hollow quadrangles at least two stories high. It contained about eight hundred inhabitants. The church is a solid edifice, the walls of which are erect to the height of ten or fifteen feet, and in places nearly eight feet thick. It is not as large as the one at Pecos, and behind it, connected with the choir by a passage, rises an octagonal tower, manifestly erected for safety and defense. Nothing is left of the so-called 'convent' but foundations. The eastern houses of the pueblo nearly touch the western walls of the church, and from this structure the village and a portion of the valley could be overlooked, and the sides of the mesas easily scanned. Ginsewa [Giusewa] is an historical pueblo. It first appears under the name of Guimzique in 1626. It seems that it was abandoned in 1622, on account of the persistent hostility of the Navajos, who had succeeded in scattering the Jemez tribes. In 1627 Fray

A

FIG. 29.--Ground plan of Amoxi

umqua.

[blocks in formation]

No. 46. Amoxiumqua.-On the high mesa overlooking Jemez Hot Springs on the west are the remains of another large and ancient pueblo, which is reached by a tedious and very precipitous trail. The ruin, a sketch plan of which is given in figure 29, stands in an open space in the forest, about a quarter of a mile from the brink of the canyon, and from its walls a glimpse can be had of the lower valley of Jemez creek. It is larger than any of the ruins in the valley below, and appears to represent two periods of occupancy, an ancient or pre-Spanish one, and a more modern one, probably of the Spanish period, the later village having been built upon the ruins of the earlier. Bandelier states that Amoxiumqua was abandoned previous to 1680. In the accompanying sketch plan (fig. 29) the old town, which is a mere heap of débris and quite limited in extent, is indicated by a stippled or dotted surface. The newer construction consists of a series of connected ridges, two or three rooms in width, and from a few feet to eight or ten feet in height. Some of the room interiors are exposed and still retain the coatings of plaster, and the ceilings are of logs with

a Final Report, pp. 204-205.

bIbid., p. 208.

transverse layers of brush or splinters to support the earthen covering. The stones of the walls, which have been derived from the cliffs in the vicinity, are rather even in size, and have been in cases slightly dressed on the outer surface. The length of the ruin from northeast to southwest is about 350 yards, and the greatest width is some 200 yards. The rows of ruined buildings have a width of from 20 to 30 feet. Seven circular kiva-like depressions are associated with the ruin. Six of these are approximately 20 feet in diameter, and the sixth, a part of the encircling wall of which is intact, is 32 feet in diameter. On the side opposite the canyon is a large depression, 150 feet in diameter and five or six feet deep, which contains a pool of water, and was undoubtedly used as a reservoir.

No. 47. Another ruined pueblo of large size and comparatively well preserved is situated in an open space in the forest on the summit of a spur of the plateau overlooking the canyon of the first northern tributary of the west fork of Jemez creek and some two miles west of the great ruin (Amoxiumqua) overlooking Jemez Hot Springs. This ruin was seen from the opposite side of the canyon, but lack of time forbade an attempt to visit it.

No. 48.-A ruin of more than usual interest is situated on the west bank of San Diego creek, about 15 miles above Jemez pueblo. At the base of the low terrace on which this ruin stands, and between its base and the creek, the Survey camp was established. Two ravines rising close together in the plateau, face to the west, separate as they approach the creek bed, leaving a somewhat triangular terrace remnant with gently sloping surface, on which the ruin is situated. This terrace at the lower margin is about 50 feet in height and 150 yard's long, and is perhaps 100 yards deep to the base of the steep slope on the west. The ruin includes one principal centrally-placed group of structures and four or five inferior structures, as indicated on the ground plan (fig. 30). The central group, a, consists of two wings of unequal length and from 30 to 60 feet in width, connected at the upper end by a transverse group of razed chambers. The length of the longer wing is about 320 feet, and of the other about 150 feet. The mass of débris indicates the outline of the buildings with perfect clearness and is in places 10 feet in height. The chambers were numerous and irregular in arrangement, but the state of the ruin is such as to make the details of the plan difficult to trace. At the upper end of the intramural space is a kiva depression 20 feet in diameter and two or three feet deep; and at the lower end, near the edge of the terrace and next the wall of the longer wing, is another of like diameter and about four feet in depth. On the opposite side, against the wall of the shorter wing, is a stone heap some 10 feet in diameter and a few feet in height. North of the longer wing of the central structure, 40 feet distant, and extending along the northern margin of the terrace, is a ruin, b, some

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30 feet wide and 150 feet in length, and in places six feet in height, presenting characters in the main identical with those of the central structure. In the space between the two clusters is a third circular depression, corresponding in size with those previously mentioned.

Higher up the sloping terrace on the northern margin is a small ruin mass, c, very much reduced. On the south, separated from the corner of the shorter wing of the main building by a space about 10 feet in width, is a fourth ruin mass, d, about 40 feet in width by 120 feet in length, the lower end of which extends well down to the margin of the terrace. Its features correspond closely with those of the other structures. South of this again, and 20 feet away on the narrow point of

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the terrace, are the remains of a minor structure, inclosing a kiva depression 30 feet in diameter and about 4 feet in depth; and below this, again, is another circular depression 36 feet in diameter and 5 feet in depth, with which no ruins are connected. Still lower down and at the extreme point of the terrace, 80 feet from the depression just described, is a small ruin mass about 12 feet square and of no considerable height.

An interesting feature of this pueblo is the occurrence of three or four refuse middens, lying on the slope of the terrace near the walls of the buildings. These consist of blackish earth with many impurities, including bones of animals, fragments of pottery, and various imple

ments of stone. On these heaps were growing dwarfish wild potato plants, the tubers, although ripe, not being more than half an inch in diameter. This ruin presents every appearance of antiquity, and, so far as observed, contains no definite trace of the presence of the white man. The fallen roof timbers, which still remain among the débris in some of the chambers, had been cut with primitive tools.

No. 49. Sixteen miles above Jemez pueblo, occupying a low sloping terrace on the west side of the valley and 30 or 40 yards from the creek, is a small pueblo group, of usual type (fig. 31). It is about 40 feet above the creek bed and covers a space some 50 yards long, facing the stream, and 50 yards deep, reaching back to the steeper ground. The low crumbling walls of small irregular stones indicate a squarish structure of numerous rooms,

including an open space or court, in which are two circular depressions, probably the remains of kivas. A third depression occurs in the midst of the ruined walls on the north side.

FIG. 31.-Ground plan of ruined pueblo 16 miles above Jemez.

Scattered stone lodges.-An important feature of the antiquities of Jemez valley is the ruins of small stone houses that are encountered by the explorer at every turn in the tributary valleys, on the steep slopes of the plateaus, and scattered over the upper surfaces of the wooded tablelands. In the foothills they are seen sometimes occupying very precipitous sites, and in riding through the deep forests of the uplands they may be counted by the score. They consist generally of a single room, rarely of two or more rooms, and the dimensions of the apartments seldom exceed ten or twelve feet. The walls are thin and loosely laid up, and to-day are rarely more than three or four feet in height, the dearth of débris indicating that they could not have been more than one story in height at any time. These houses occur in

considerable numbers in the valley of the San Diego near the great bend, 20 miles above Jemez pueblo; in the vicinity of the warm springs, a few miles above the bend; on the plateau east of Jemez springs; and along the terrace-like projections of the western slope of the canyon wall.

The existence of other important ruins exceptionally well preserved has been reported from the high Valle Grande and San Antonio valley on the eastern rim of the Jemez basin; also from the foothills of the Nacimiento range on the upper Guadalupe.

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