negroes. The union of the two first produces the cholo; of the two last, the zambo; and of the first and last, the mulatto. The Spaniards, or whites, are a tall race, particularly the females. They have brown complexions, but occasionally a brilliant colour, black hair and eyes. Some of them are extremely beautiful. The cholos are shorter, but well made, and have particularly small feet and hands. All classes of people are addicted to the smoking of cigars, even in carriages and at the dinner-table. It does not seem to be considered by any one as unpleasant, and foreigners have adopted the custom.

The cholo women partake of the dark brown skin of the Indian, have low figures, short round faces, high cheek-bones, good teeth, and small hands and feet. Their whole figure is robust.

There does not appear to exist any accurate account of the population of Peru; but it is generally believed to have decreased, particularly as regards the whites and negroes. The best information gives but little over a million inhabitants, viz.: about one hundred and twentyfive thousand whites; natives and cholos, eight hundred thousand; with ninety thousand negroes and ranchos, of whom about thirty-five thousand are slaves. This does not vary much from the number given by the geographies forty years ago. The country appears, from all accounts, not only to have decreased in population, but to have diminished in wealth and productiveness. A much less proportion of the soil is now cultivated than formerly under the "Children of the Sun."

There are half a dozen newspapers published in Lima, two of which are issued daily. They are, like the Spanish, small sheets. They have a good deal of control over public opinion. Few or no advertisements are seen in them. These are deemed unnecessary in Lima, and all the amusements, such as the theatre, cockfighting, &c., are placarded on the portals. A high price is asked for the newspapers.

On the 30th of May there was a grand procession, on the festival of Corpus Christi. It was preceded by a party of negroes, dressed in the most gaudy colours, singing, dancing, and keeping time to a native tune, somewhat like Mumbo Jumbo, to testify their joy that the blessings of Christianity had reached them. Then followed some priests, bearing lamps covered with artificial flowers, and swinging censers. Next came the shrines of the Virgin and saints, covered with tinsel and gold, mounted on large pedestals, and borne on the shoulders of men. After this came the host, and on its passing every one uncovered and kneeled down. Then came the military, who were all out, and offered us a fine opportunity of viewing the recruits, the greater proportion of whom were Indians. The government had been

ferreting out the Indians in a manner hitherto unpractised. There was much mixed blood among the Peruvian soldiers, cholos, zambos, and some few negroes, while the Chilian troops had very little. Among the Chilians, the regiment of Portales was pointed out, which had left Chili six hundred strong, and was now reduced to four hundred.

During my stay at Lima, I had the pleasure of an introduction to Mr. Mathews,* whose researches in natural history are so well known. Combined with his being a good naturalist, he has great talent as an artist. His portfolio contained many beautiful drawings of plants, flowers, and birds, from beyond the Cordilleras. He owned an estate of thirty miles square, at the foot of the eastern slope of the Cordilleras, for which I think he had paid one thousand dollars. He is married to a woman of the country, is extremely enthusiastic in his researches, and has lately recovered some of the unpublished manuscripts of Ruiz and Pavon.

There are several small manufactories of gold lace, &c., but nearly all the goods sold and consumed in the country are foreign. Lima is the great retail place. There has been lately set up a manufactory of glass, but too recently to judge of its success. The mechanical employments are numerous, but all are in a rude state. When it is considered that Lima was founded nearly a century before the settlement of our own country, it shows a marked difference in favour of the enterprise of the Anglo-Saxon race.

On St. John's day, (24th of June,) the patron saint of Lima, a great festival among the lower classes-the cholos, natives, zambos, and blacks-takes place. It is held in the valley of Amancaes, about three miles north of the city. Previous to the day, a number of tents and booths are erected in the valley, which is about half a mile long, and one-third of a mile wide. These are decked out with flags and banners. There are tents for refreshments, strong drinks, dancing, gambling, &c., in every direction.

On the road leading to this scene are erected shrines of the saint, where all who pass are expected to pay their contributions.

On this day, every horse and vehicle in Lima is engaged, and at exorbitant rates. The whole road leading to the valley is crowded from an early hour in the morning. The higher classes generally frequent it early and return soon, while those of the middle and lower classes continue to keep it up until a late hour. Every one is decked with the flowers of the Pancratium Amancaes, which grows in great

* In the death of this gentleman, science has lost one of her most zealous and enthusi astic labourers.

abundance in the place where the festival is held; and the decoration extends even to the horses and mules, as well as to the booths and vehicles. As the day advances, the crowd increases. No 4th of July in our own country could equal the uproarious drunkenness that ensues.

Dancing is the favourite amusement. The dance in which they most delight is a national one, called the samacueca, and no words can give an idea of its vulgarity and obscenity. I think it a happy circumstance that it is confined to this country. One Amancaes' day would upturn a whole year of morals. As intoxication ensues, it goes to extreme lengths. Italia, or rather, pisco, is pledged to every one, and many are seen with bottle and glass passing about, and pledging happiness and prosperity, in the hope of getting a small reward. The music to which they dance consists of a small guitar, accompanied with the voice, and beating of time; the time is quite monotonous, somewhat resembling the Spanish seguidilla. The crowd is great, consisting of cholos, zambos, negroes, and whites, variously dressed and jumbled together; some singing, some begging, fighting, swearing, laughing; no order, all confusion. This is the centre of the fray. On the out

skirts are seen groups of the better classes, sitting down to their pic-nics.

The acting President and Governor of Lima, Lafuente and staff, honoured the place with their presence, to please the people. He did not, however, appear to receive any honours, nor was his arrival greeted with marks of approbation or enthusiasm. Towards evening, when the inebriated mass is returning, the great sport of the day occurs. The cholo women, who ride astride, are remarkably good horsewomen, and extremely expert in managing their horses. Their dress is peculiar: a large broad-brimmed hat, with flowing ribands of gay colours, short spencer or jacket of silk, a gaudy calico or painted muslin skirt, silk stockings, blue, pink, or white satin shoes, and over the whole is sometimes worn a white poncho. Large wooden stirrups, ornamented with silver, numerous pillions, a saddle-cloth, and richly ornamented bridle, all decked with amancaes, form the caparison of the steeds.

Nothing can exceed the confusion of the return of this great throng, moving over a dusty road, shouting and racing. The cholo women are always on the lead, and actively engaged in taking care of their drunken partners, who are frequently seen mounted behind them, with their faces flushed from the effects of pisco, forming an odd contrast to the beautiful yellow flowers that adorn their hats. The great feat of the women who ride single, is to unhorse their companions, which they frequently succeed in doing, to the great amusement and sport of the pedestrians, and the discomfiture of their male associates. They are seen while at full gallop to stop suddenly, whirl round two or three times, and go off again at full speed, covering themselves and the bystanders with dust. Just before reaching the city, the road is lined with vehicles, not unlike our cabs, in which are seated ladies in full

costume.

The Alameda, as well as the streets leading into it, is crowded on this occasion with all the fashion of the city. Though the crowd would lead to the belief that every body was abroad, yet the doors and windows are filled with heads, more or less decorated with amancaes. This is a festival nowhere surpassed in drunkenness and uproar.

Most of the buildings in Lima have suffered more or less from earthquakes. It was the season of earthquakes during our stay, and three were felt. Some of our gentlemen complained of a sickening sensation during the first. It did not, however, do much damage. The second took place on the 5th of June, and was sensibly felt; a third was experienced on the 10th of June, with a continued shaking

of the walls and floors. The last was reported as having been more severe to the northward. At Ica, an official statement reported that about one thousand jars of pisco had been broken. They are usually set up on end in contact with each other, and contain from seven to ten gallons each. It is truly surprising how long the churches have stood, with their lofty towers. Curious effects have been produced in some places. Two conical adobe caps of the Franciscan convent have been shifted from their places; one as if by a rotary motion or force apparently in a direction from left to right; the other is turned half round, and seems ready to fall. Another instance was noted at the gateway of the naval school before spoken of. A large block has been turned one-fourth round, while those under it remain in place.

These adobe blocks have generally a large iron rod running through them. A representation of the latter is given in the annexed figure.

GATEWAY OF THE NAVAL SCHOOL.

With the name of Peru the want of moisture is generally associated. The general impression is that it never rains there. This, however, is far from being strictly true, except in certain parts of it. Were it not, however, for irrigation by the mountain streams, a great portion of Peru would certainly become nearly a desert. Indeed, the upland is so now, not yielding any herbage whatever until the pasture region of the Cordilleras is reached. We are not to imagine, however, that the atmosphere is very clear, or that sunshine always prevails. It is extremely difficult to get a clear day. Father Feüillee has put upon record, more than a century ago, that the heavens were generally obscured. I can bear testimony to the truth of this remark, for although a glimpse of the sun was usually had some time during the day, yet it was almost as difficult to get equal altitudes at Callao during our stay as it was at Terra del Fuego.