A TOUR IN FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND. CHAPTER I. "When shall I tread thy fertile shores again, Land of the warlike Gaul, salubrious France, Since last I saw thee in the Summer glow.-J. C. PRINCE. To Having spent a most agreeable and pleasant week in the capital of France, in August of last year, my appetite for continental travelling was whetted thereby; and I determined, all being well, that my next trip should extend through France into Switzerland. see the mountains had been a dream with me ever since childhood's days; when panoramic and dissolving views of Swiss scenery, which often visited our village, gave me a strange yearning for a sight of the originals, not unmingled with doubt as to whether they could be half so beautiful. Many years passed away, and there never seemed even the shadow of a hope that the dream would come true, but this summer everything proved favourable for the expedition; and now, that I have seen under most favourable circumstances, that wonderful city, Paris, the capital of Europe, as well as those still more wonderful creations, the Alps, I will endeavour to tell you how I went, how I fared, what I saw, and what are my impressions thereon. B Naming my intention of going to Switzerland to two of my friends, about a fortnight previous to the time of departure, they readily consented to bear me company; and during that interval of time, had you come upon us unexpectedly, you would have found us in a scrutinizing manner, pondering over maps, guide books, railway timé tables, and steam-boat advertisements, with a pertinacity you might have thought worthy of a better cause. With as little luggage and as much good spirits as possible, we started on Wednesday, June the 29th, 1864, and travelled the first stage of our journey, namely, from Morley to London. Nothing of interest occurred during our ride, and we reached King's Cross at six o'clock, p.m. Early on Thursday morning we left London Bridge for Newhaven, and much amusement we managed to get on the journey, out of the little nothings which constitute the ordinary adventures of friends bent on enjoying themselves. On reaching the Station Hotel, at Newhaven, we provided ourselves with a "friend in our pockets," by exchanging English money for French sous, centimes and napoleons, and taking some slight refreshment, prepared for our ride across the Channel. We stood for some time on the quay, watching with interest the commotion going on and usually attendant on the sailing of a vessel; porters with heavy trunks sweating under their burdens, the captain in vociferous tones calling out his many orders, and the numerous passengers scrambling at the risk of life and limb to secure a comfortable berth. We had to go on the gangway to get on deck, and the luggage and passengers were so mingled that it was a difficult thing to distinguish our destination; whether with the luggage we should be shot down into the hold, or be allowed to climb over the "the man mountain of trunks and carpet bags, on the gangway, and find a more congenial resting place near at the wheel." Eventually we stood on the deck of the "Orleans" now panting and puffing to get away. At eleven o'clock we started out of the harbour, and after we had got a little distance out to sea, a beautiful panorama lay before us. The town and harbour of Newhaven with its trim smacks and picturesque looking sailors in their blue jackets and red caps was a rather effective sight. To our left were the chalk cliffs of England, with their pleasing associations; and one of the party on board descanted to us of the time when the Britons so bravely defended themselves against the attacks of the Romans. On the top of these selfsame cliffs the brave fellows stood, determined to maintain their own, against the invasion of Julius Cæsar. For a while all went along smoothly on board, but I scarcely need tell the reader what a change came over the spirit of our company when our gallant vessel began to mount the waves. Laughing eyes became mournful enough, and jolly faces were lengthened into dolorous visages, and one of my companions sought the cabin, and looked wistfully into the pail at his feet. The God of the sea demanded his tribute. One of my friends obeyed at one side of the cabin while Mr. W. answered at the other. Being one of the fortunate few who are never sea-sick, this trip on the sea was a real pleasure to me. During the ride, the steward told me a story of a Frenchman who crossed the channel a short time previous, and who not having been to sea before, experienced the sensations peculiar to most travellers, and on the steward asking him how he felt, he said "Dreadful! him take my belly, and him lift him up, then him take my belly and him put him down, then him take my belly and him turn it all round.” "Not a bad definition" said the steward, as he looked upon the helpless creatures around. giving our ticket to an About five o'clock in the afternoon we reached Dieppe, the Scarbro' of France, and we were welcomed by a crowd on the pier, at the mouth of the harbour, and winding our way round the curve of the narrow channel, we observed on either side of the harbour, a large crucifix, symbolical of the national faith. Our vessel was soon made fast, and official, we stepped on shore. awaited our arrival, and at once gave vent to clamorous praises of the various hotels which they represented, some in glib French, others in doubtful English, and some with a strange mixture of both. Passing along, we walked to the railway station, a distance of half-amile, through the fish market, and along a street full of hotels and restaurants. About fifty "touters" At the station hotel we obtained refreshment, though with some difficulty, on account of the crush, but whilst waiting for " our turn" a loud chorus of laughter broke forth, caused by one enthusiastic traveller calling out in his mother tongue, "Waiter, some beef and bread." Our hungry friend began now to feel the perplexity of his position, wanting refreshment and not able to ask for it, except in his native patois. Both at this stage of our journey, and till its close, we, too, felt the need of a better acquaintance with the French language. Leaving Dieppe at seven o'clock, we travelled along the bed of a rich valley, from which on both sides arose beautifully wooded slopes, studded with tall poplars, and after the lapse of two hours a porter opened the carriage door and shouted "Rouen, vous avez dix minutes a rester ici" which a friend kindly interpreted to mean, that ten minutes was allowed for refreshments. We entered the buffet or refreshment room, a tastefully arranged place, adorned with groups of the finest flowers of the season, and amply supplied with fruits and provisions. The allotted time having elapsed, we again sped on our way, remarking to each other on the new phases of life we every moment saw, new faces, new costumes, and new manners. The second class carriage we rode in was luxuriantly stuffed and padded, so that we really took our ease as we were whirled along. The first part of the eighty-five miles between Rouen and Paris is over a flat, sandy district, badly cultivated; leaving that, we came into a district of marsh and peat. As we neared Paris we came upon towns and villages, churches, villas, and chateaux; through corn lands, vineyards, and orchards, with the river Seine by our side nearly the whole of the way. We reached Paris at eleven o'clock, p.m., thankful that our day's journey was at an end. Crossing the street from the railway station, we secured accommodation at the Hotel du Havre, Rue d' Amsterdam. After a good wash we partook of some cafè au lait, or coffee and milk, with eatables, and proceeded to the custom house to obtain our luggage, which had been detained for examination. We entered a large room, and from amongst the mass of bags, trunks, and boxes, we eventually found our own; and opening them for inspection, was attended to immediately, and nothing being found which warranted our detention, we were allowed to depart. |