AYRSHIRE, AND THE LAND OF BURNS. GENERAL FEATURES OF THE COUNTY, AND A Patriotism and Poetry-all that is chivalrous and elevated in war-all that is melodious and immortal in song; man in his most manly condition; woman in her most lovely aspect; animal life of any kind in its most hardy and vigorous shape- these are the associations experienced by every true Scot in his contemplation of this county, in comparison with the remainder of Scotland. And while his enthusiasm is fed by the memory of Burns and the achievements of Bruce and Wallace, his utilitarian partialities are equally gratified in remembering the mineral resources and agricultural importance of many of its districts. Indeed Nature has been more bounteous in this respect than in the adornment of the surface of the county; although, taken as a whole, it cannot be said to be wanting in scenes of picturesque and romantic beauty. To those who can descend from lofty associations to the contemplation of mere facts, it may be interesting to know that Ayrshire is one of the largest counties of Scotland south of the Forth; that it extends upwards of sixty miles in a crescent shape along the coast of the western sea; that it in some parts exceeds thirty miles in breadth; and that it was formerly divided by the rivers Doon and Irvine into three districts Carrick, Kyle, and Cunninghame, of which the respective characteristics are immortalized in the following antiquated couplet: in question extended into Ayrshire, a Roman road having been distinctly traced from the Doon of Tynron in Dumfriesshire to the town of Ayr, in addition to various Roman remains in other districts. Towards the end of the fourth century, the Scots are said to have lost their king, Eugenius, in a battle fought at Kyle against fifty thousand men, under the Roman general Maximus. In the eighth century, Kyle and Cunninghame fell into the hands of the Saxon king of Northumberland. In the ninth century, one of those common casualties in the early history of most nations-an invasion-took place under Alpin, king of the Scoto-Irish. The extent of this chieftain's ambition, however, was only equalled by the completeness of his defeat, which took place at Dalmellington, about sixteen miles from the coast near Ayr, where he had landed. He was killed in the battle; and his resting-place is still known under the Gaelic designation of Laicht Alpin, the Grave of Alpin.' Haco, or Acho, King of Norway, also met with an equally warm reception when, some three hundred years afterwards, he landed with similar objects, and twenty thousand men, upon the Ayrshire coast. The battle of Largs is well remembered as completing his defeat and discomfiture. But it was the fortunate fate of the Scots to gain higher honours as their enemies became more formidable. The invasions of Alpin and Haco were the harbingers of temporary triumphs, but that of Edward won for them immortal fame. Sir William Wallace, the liberator of his country, and the favourite hero of his countrymen, was born, "Kyle for a man, Carrick for a cow, Cunninghame for butter and cheese, and Galloway† for probably, about the year 1276. He was the second woo'." Carrick is the southern division of the county. It is chiefly remarkable for its bleak and barren hills. But on the other side of the Ayr-which divides it from Kyle-the soil is mostly very productive; while Cunninghame-separated from Kyle by the Irvine-is a fair and fertile plain. There seems to be no doubt, as far as the contentions of antiquarians will allow any certainty to the subject -that the original inhabitants of Ayrshire were of the pure Celtic race. Presumptive evidence of this exists in Druidical and other remains; in the features of the inhabitants themselves in the present day; and in the fact, as stated by Buchanan, that the Gaelic tongue was spoken in the county so late as the sixteenth century. At the time of the Roman invasion, under Agricola, the great tribe of the Damnii occupied the county. It seems to have been well established that the invasion * Vide Robert Chambers's 'Picture of Scotland.' Until the twelfth century, Galloway was considered a part of Ayrshire. XXII.-VOL. III. son of Malcolm Waleys, of Ellerslie, in Renfrewshire, whose wife was the daughter of the hereditary Sheriff of Ayr, Sir Reginald Crawford, and who was otherwise connected with several Ayrshire families. It was in this county that Wallace and his little band of patriots were frequently to be found; and it was there that they grew into that importance and power which ultimately, under the vigorous influence of their chieftain, led to so successful a result. The spot where the compromise was effected between Wallace and Henry de Percy, is described by the Scottish historians to have been on the margin of a lake at or near Irvine; but it is supposed by Paterson to have been in a field situated on a farm named Warrix,-at that period a peninsula formed by the rivers Irvine and Garnock, but which was destroyed about a century since by the Irvine breaking through its course. It was the annoyance of the Earl of Pembroke, Guardian of Scotland, at the manner in which Bruce had wrested Ayrshire from the English, that caused the celebrated battle of Loudoun Hill, when the Scottish army, numbering not more than six hundred, inflicted a signal defeat M upon three thousand of the enemy - a battle thus of carpets, from succeeding as well in this place as in described by Hugh Brown: "The Bruce's sword, the soldier's trusty spear, The first Scottish Parliament which assembled after the latter decisive battle, was held at Ayr. During the whole struggle the county had played a conspicuous and honourable part. During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, Ayrshire experienced a full proportion of the disorder and anarchy so prevalent throughout the land. In the early days of the Reformation both Wishart and Knox pursued their labours frequently in the town of Ayr. In the reigns of Charles II. and James II., Ayrshire was prominent in the religious struggles which occupied the country. The inhabitants suffered much persecution from their zeal in the cause of the Covenant. They were strong supporters of the Revolution, and, subsequently, of the House of Hanover. But the religious zeal of the people of Ayrshire led to their temporal depression. Towards the close of the last century, commerce, manufactures, and agriculture had alike fallen into decay. The establishment, however, about 1770, of Messrs. Douglas, Heron and Company's Bank at Ayr, and the exertions of various influential gentlemen in the promotion of agriculture and a spirit of enterprise, have resulted in a degree of prosperity which promises to be permanent and increasing. Indeed, there is every probability that the lapse of a few years will find the condition of the county materially improved. In nearly every direction we find marks of progress: railways and steam-boats, docks, harbours, and manufactories, are all increasing, and lending additional and more effective assistance to commercial enterprise; while libraries, scientific institutions, and the spread of cheap literature, combine to enhance the social welfare of the population, by the elevation and refinement of their intellectual and moral characters. 6 Kilmarnock, which owes to this cause so much of its wealth and prosperity." Since the above was written the carpet manufacture has been commenced in Ayr, and with every prospect of extensive and increased comfort to the neighbourhood. The other manufactures of the county consist principally of cotton and woollen articles,-shawls, calicoes, muslins, serges, &c. And in addition to the extensive factories for carrying on these branches of trade-which are conducted principally by means of machineryprint and bleach works have arisen on all sides. Tanning is carried on to some extent. Neither the linen nor the silk manufacture have been prosecuted with much success. Kilmarnock is the great seat of the woollen manufacture in this county. Its shawls are celebrated, and are produced in large numbers; and its carpets are also a very valuable branch of trade. Tanning, and the manufacture of shoes, bonnets and hats, machinery, and miscellaneous articles, are carried on with great success. The geological character of the county varies in different districts. The parish of Ayr may be described as presenting a superficial district of no definite gcological character, the external surface being covered with a diluvium, or broken mass of sand, gravel, or clay, intermixed with water-worn detached whinstones. Taken as a whole, its uppermost character belongs to the coal formation, which useful mineral, it is to be regretted, has not conferred so much benefit on the neighbourhood as might have been the case. Ardrossan parish there is also a considerable amount of coal to be met with. There are three limestone quarries within its boundaries, which are worked more or less. The lime is of good quality. Freestone, both red and white, is very abundant. In the town of Ardrossan there is a large quarry of the former kind. But since the formation of the railway, the demand for it has not been so great, owing to the facility with which stone of a superior quality can be procured from the Stevenston quarry. Kilmarnock is an important mineral district. Besides coal-to which system the district is principally confined-greenstone, ironstone, freestone, and sandstone, of very good quality, are to be met with. Taken as a whole, the county has undoubtedly advantages in this respect, which need only fair development to render it as prosperous as could be desired. Regarding the capabilities of the town, a writer in the New Statistical Account of Scotland' says: "It has often been a matter of surprise that Ayr has not been more benefited by manufactories and public works,-possessing as it does so many advantages for this purpose, and such facilities of communication with In agriculture, a very great improvement has taken other places both by sea and land. With such an ex-place of late years. And when we consider the wretched tensive grain country surrounding it, distilleries could not fail to thrive; the price of labour is low-rated, and all the other requisites are easily procurable. Cottonworks might prosper as well here as at Catrine, the town being as favourably situated in regard to all the materials necessary, coal, water, and labourers in abundance; while it has greatly the advantage, by enjoying the means of sea as well as of land-carriage. And we can see nothing to hinder the manufacture of wool in its various branches, particularly in the weaving condition of the county at no very remote date,-when animal food was only an occasional luxury of the middle class of inhabitants, and a thing almost unattainable by the peasantry ;-and when the landlords themselves often found their estates insufficient for their maintenance, the highest credit must reflect upon the inhabitants, whose industry and perseverance contributed to rescue them from the state of degradation to which bad seasons, ignorance, and prejudice had reduced them. At the present time, if art has been less busy, and nature less bountiful than could be desired, in conducing towards agricultural improvement,-there are yet sufficient indications of an onward tendency to give encouragement to the highest hopes. In several parts of the county new systems are being introduced, and old errors eradicated. Draining and planting are proceeding very satisfactorily; and in most districts active efforts are being made, both to develope the resources of nature, and to provide for her deficiencies. Oats is the grain most cultivated; and in this respect the county is pre-eminent. Wheat is but little grown; but its quality is excellent. Turnips and potatoes are in very general cultivation, the latter in particular; and there is a very fair proportion of vegetables of other kinds. Flax is raised. The best rotation of crops was considered, some years ago, to be oats or beans raised after ploughing up a grass-field; after these, in dry soils, turnips, or other green crops, such as kale, vetches, tares, or potatoes. In very strong soils, drilled beans, cabbages, and carrots, in the place of turnips, followed by a crop of barley, sown with artificial grass-seeds. After the clover, wheat or oats, or, in very light lands, rye. This system has, in some districts, been changed, but prevails more or less in others. The system of furrow-draining has been very generally adopted in many districts, and has given a great impulse to agriculture by the increase of produce. When this mode of draining was first introduced into Ayrshire, we are told that it was done by means of small stones. But of late tiles have been substituted, and with increased advantage. Fields which, under the old system, yielded only from 3 to 4 bolls of oats per acre, have, by means of furrow-draining, yielded about double the quantity. It is an opinion very generally entertained, that should the system be carried to its greatest possible extent, the county will not only be in general independent of supplies of foreign grain, but become an exporting one. The cultivation of trees, in many parts of the county, is not so well understood or practised as could be desired: at any rate, this is the case with many of the smaller plantations. These are generally narrow belts immediately around the farm-houses. From a wish to get as much shelter as possible, with a small sacrifice of ground, the trees are often allowed to grow up in so crowded a state, that they soon choke each other. Besides the native breed of cattle, which is celebrated for its excellence, Highland, Alderney, and Irish cattle are sometimes seen in the county. In the southern part they are mostly of the Galloway breed, and in the northern part of the Dunlop. The richness and excellent quality of milk produced by the latter has given to Dunlop that great reputation for cheese which it has long maintained. Indeed, in that part of the county more attention is paid to the manufacture of dairy-produce than to any other pursuit. Several attempts have been made to introduce cattle of various descriptions,-Dutch or Holderness, the wide-horned, Craven, Lancashire, and Leicester; but they do not appear to have succeeded. Thus much for generalities. Let us now take a leisurely survey of the scenery and outward characteristics of the county-noting, not only its 'lions,' but also its smaller points of attraction. LOITERINGS BY THE WAY. We shall commence at the southern extremity of the shire, where we enter the Vale of Glenapp—a spot not without its attractions in the way of scenery and associations. The little fishing village of Ballantrae occupies a favourable position on a level portion of the coast, at the mouth of the Stinchar Water, and in the parish of the same name. The inhabitants of this district did not enjoy the best reputation either for character or conduct. Their mode of life was—cannibalism and tattooing apart-as savage as might well be. But if their virtues were primitive, their vices were those of civilization; and the smuggling propensities of the population tended not a little towards their demoralization. But a change has come over the place of late years: the revenue is no longer defrauded, and the village is sombre and civilized enough to satisfy a moralist, or disgust the author of Eothen.' . From Ballantrae to Girvan we have a walk of about a dozen miles-rendered interesting by bold and picturesque scenery. The range of precipices called Gamesloup, with the tall gaunt ruins of Carleton Castle in their immediate neighbourhood, form the scene of one of the wildest legends of this wild coast -we allude to that contained in the ballad of 'May Cullean so popular in Carrick. The story goes that the castle was once occupied by a terrible baron, who was a lady killer,' in more senses than one for he had not only contrived to marry seven wives, but had released himself from them successively and successfully by precipitating them from a mighty crag, overhanging the sea. This economical method of saving the expenses of the Ecclesiastical Court, had, besides, gained for him a vast amount of wealth-the accumulated fortunes of the ladies. For the eighth time he tied the matrimonial knot; but in this case it formed a noose which proved fatal to him. On leading May Cullean to the crag where he was wont to settle his domestic disputes, the lady pretended to agree to his proposals for a separate maintenance, and to prepare to take the fatal step-that is to say, plunge. "Her gentle limbs did she undress," for the purpose; but not being inclined, like 'Christabel,' to "Lay down in her loveliness," she paused in her task, and as her beauty became every instant more unadorned, requested her companion to turn away his head for the sake of propriety. The fause baron' complied, and the lady, seizing at once the opportunity and his portly person, precipitated him. from the fatal cliff! |
