The land we live in, a pictorial and literary sketch-book of the British empire

HEVER Castle. “Our writings,” says old Burton, are so many dishes, our readers the guests :" wherefore, as he very reason- Kent is a beautiful county, and one full of all kinds ably lucubrates, it is only becoming that we should of interest. Few counties can display so ample a endeavour to have them in some measure suitable to variety of pleasing scenery, and few possess more the time and the occasion. For this winter season, a objects that will repay the examination of the curious culling from the old Baronial mansions of England, tourist. In old baronial and manorial residences it is seems a not unseasonable dish to set before our friendly especially rich ; and they, with the fine parks that guests, the readers of “The Land We Live in.' generally appertain to them, contribute in no small Those stately halls are beyond almost every object measure to the beauty and interest of the county. From provocative of recollections of that large and hearty them we select a few that have more than the ordinary Christmas hospitality which was so eminently charac- amount of historical or other value, and that may teristic of England in the olden time. The very shadow serve at the same time as examples of the several kinds of it has filed away long since ; but even to recal to our of structures that are characteristic of ancient baronial memory that such things were, is neither without profit domestic architecture. nor pleasure.

We may begin with the rudest-looking and oldest. Yet in truth it needs no apology of the season for in- Hever Castle is a tolerably perfect example of a casteltroducing such a subject in our work. We should have lated mansion of the earliest date. Though called a a very incomplete series of sketches of our noble land, castle, that is an improper designation : it retains in either pictorial or literary, if we had none of those old part the form and character of a castle, but it was mansions which form so noticeable a feature in it. Nor erected in an age when comfort as well as security was is the subject merely an ornamental one: a history of sought after ; when, though it was deemed needful to our chief country mansions would form a theme of rich build so as to be secure from a sudden attack, defence and various interest. Even to trace the history of some was no longer the first thing thought of and provided one at sufficient length, and in a genial spirit, would for. During the sway of the Norman monarchs, castles afford abundant information as well as amusement : were raised all over the land. It is affirmed that above the weather-beaten walls, and the dusty family records, eleven hundred were erected in England, in the reign would alike furnish matter which the wand of fancy of Stephen. In the strong language of the "Saxon might transform into vivid and speaking realities. The Chronicle,' “Every rich man built his castles and dedifferent parts of the building would recal and illustrate fended them, and they filled the land full of castles. the varying phases of public and domestic life: the And they greatly oppressed the wretched people, by embattled towers would tell of those ruder times when making them work at these castles ; and when the the feudal chief might have to call around him his re- castles were finished, they filled them with devils and tainers and tenants, and prepare against the approach evil men.” Henry II., however, put a stop to the of some hostile band; the huge halls and capacious mischief by making it unlawful to erect a castle without kitchens of ancient state and hospitality; the graceful the Royal licence—which he but seldom granted. bay-windows of the growth of elegance and security ; The Norman castle was a large and enormously strong while all would display the progress of architectural building. The walls, which were of immense thickness, skill and taste. How distinctly, too, would the apart. were surmounted with battlements, and usually further ments and their garniture record the shifting habits of fortified by small projecting towers or bastions. Where social life-changing slowly and almost imperceptibly the nature of the ground did not render the approach from year to year, but showing so vast a difference nearly inaccessible, a moat encompassed the walls, and between the present time and that when the foundations across it was thrown a drawbridge. The entrance of the house were laid, it may be some four or five cen- gateway was flanked by towers : there were several thick turies ago! And then in the fortunes of its owners, doors ; and portcullises were fitted into grooves, so as to often the mighty, the famous, the unhappy-how im- be easily dropped in case of surprisal, and to prevent the pressive a story might be read! To most who visit danger which might arise from the application of fire. these ancient halls some such thoughts occur; and some There was also near the centre of the castle a great keep, such history of them might, without extraordinary to which the garrison might retreat if the castle itself labour, be written. Of course that cannot be attempted should be forced. No more efficient stronghold than here. We are to look lightly over two or three of these the Norman castle could well have been contrived for old buildings which lie at a few miles distance from withstanding the assaults of an army in the then state each other, and in one county: and whilst strolling of warfare: but it made at best but a gloomy and unthrough the rooms we shall, without much regard to comfortable abode, - every external aperture was of order, speak of such matters as we meet with, or as the the smallest size, the rooms were confined and inconobjects we see may recal to the memory.

venient, the whole wore a stern and forbidding air. It XVII.-Vol. III.

was not, however, till the splendid victories of Edward genial billets,”) were addressed to her here, and her III, had ensured peace and safety in the land, that the answers are dated from hence; and hither that “inteEnglish nobility thought of erecting for themselves resting admirer” used often to come whilst she was dwellings of a more homely character. It was in the in patient waiting for the nuptial tie." reign of Edward III, that domestic architecture may Poor Anne! hers was indeed a hard lot. The sorbe said to have arisen in England; but even then, as row and wrong she had brought upon another were has been mentioned, although comfort and elegance with fearful interest returned into her own bosom. were sought after, security was not neglected. The Hardly is the lofty eminence she had so long panted result was the construction of that class of buildings for attained, ere clouds gather around, and she sees which has received the name of castellated mansions. darkness and danger on every hand. The "interesting

Hever Castle is of this kind, and of this date. Wil- admirer” is changed into a brutal tyrant; in place of liam de Hever, lord of the manor, obtained a license of love and hope, come alienation and misery. Then Edward III. to erect his manor house at Hever, more follows that hideous mockery of a trial, where the castelli,' with towers, battlements, and machicolations; womanly ear is outraged by every insult which the and in virtue of this grant he built the castle we are depraved imaginations of coarse old men can, at the now to examine. Hever Castle does not remain as it bidding of a reckless master, shape out of the vile tales was originally erected ; alterations, additions, and mo- of shameless attendants : and then that graceful form dernizations have been made at different times, but in is, without trace of compassion, consigned to the bloodits general form and character it is pretty much as he stained hands of the common executioner. But her left it.

husband was not her only-hardly her worst---persecutor. It is situated about three miles south-east of the Even in the grave she has not been suffered to rest at Edenbridge station of the South-Eastern Railway. peace. Her miserable doom has failed to excite a merThere is a pleasant walk to it from the village of Eden- ciful consideration of her failings. It has been her fate bridge, along by-lanes and field-paths. Little is seen to be the object of more and angrier controversy, and more of the castle till you come close upon it, owing to its bitter vituperation, than ever was any other Englishlying in so low a spot. The site was chosen, no doubt, woman,-except her daughter. Down to our own day from its proximity to the river Eden, affording so much she has been subjected to the grossest accusations which facility for surrounding the building by a moat. When even theological rancour could inspire; and only in the fairly seen the appearance of the castle is rather striking, case of her daughter, where to theological rancour as well as picturesque. (Cut No. 1.) The building is national enmity is superadded, has the persecution been quadrangular, enclosing a court-yard. The place of the as long continued and as unrelenting. original draw-bridge is supplied by a fixed wooden one; Hever Castle was purchased by William Bullen, the but the moat remains undrained. The principal front, great-grandfather of Anne. He was a wealthy silkwhich presents itself to the view on approaching the castle, mercer in London, -of which city he was, in 1459, is the fortified part. It consists of a large and lofty gate- elected lord-mayor: but the Bullens (for so they spelled house, flanked by two square towers. It is built of their name) were an ancient and honourable Norfolk stone, and is evidently of great strength, answering in family. Upon the death of the father of Anne Boleyn some measure to the keep of the Norman castle. As “ without male issue,” the manor accrued to the crown. this was the only entrance to the castle, the architect After his divorce from Anne of Cleves, Henry granted has expended upon its defences all his skill. Over the Hever Castle and manor to her for life, or as long as gateway impend bold machicolations from which missiles she should remain in England : and in Hever Castle might be poured on the heads of assailants. The wers were spent the remaining days of that most fortunate are pierced with oilets and loop-holes, through which of the tyrant's unhappy wives. She died here in 1556, arrows might be discharged, without chance of reprisal. after a quiet sojourn of sixteen years. Sbortly after Three stout gates and as many portcullises are arranged her death the estate was sold by Royal commission. It one behind the other, within the gateway. In the gate- has since passed through many hands; but nothing of house are guard-rooms: the chambers above were pro- interest has occurred in connection with it. It is now vided with furnaces for melting lead and pitch ; and all the property of a family named Medley. Hever Castle other defensive appliances were carefully provided. has become a farm-house. The strength of the castle, however, does not appear The gate-house by which you enter is the original to have been tested. It owes its celebrity to other than stronghold. It is in capital preservation, and retains warlike recollections. It has been the abode of two to a great degree its primitive appearance. The only of the many wives of Henry VIII. It was the birth- alteration of any consequence is the insertion of some place and the residence of Anne Boleyn ; and here it windows of Tudor date. On the front is some rather was that she dwelt a part of the tedious six years, elegant tracery; but as you enter the gateway, the during which, to borrow the words of Mr. Sharon bold impending machicolations and triple portcullises, Turner, she patiently listened, " to the solicitations and render it a sufficiently formidable-looking structure. aspirations of a Royal and interesting admirer.” Seve. The rooms inside this building are also in tolerable ral of this “interesting admirer's " still-existing love- preservation. The principal is the great hall, the oriletters (or as Mr. Turner prefers to call them, con- ginal state-room of the castle: this is a noble apart

« Předchozí Pokračovat »

Knihy