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By the mouth of the Otter is the hamlet of Budleigh Salterton; which within these few years has grown into some repute as a quiet retired wateringplace a sort of country appendix to Exmouth and where were only two or three mud hovels belonging to the fishermen, is now a thriving and smart little town, having its three or four streets of shops and lodginghouses; its baths and libraries; its hotel, and even commercial inn;' and often a goodly number of genteel visitants. The streamlet that runs through the main street, with the plain wooden bridges that cross it, cause the place yet to retain something of its old rusticity. The cliffs along the sea here, and still more by Otter Point, on the other side of the Otter, are very lofty and very precipitous. The scenery about the shore we need hardly say is such as often exercises the pencils of the visitants. Ladram Bay is particularly celebrated, and in the summer season is one of the most attractive spots in this vicinity. The rocks are there worn into the wildest shapes, and there are caverns that are an object to ramble after: a sail to Ladram Bay is a favourite summer diversion.

From Budleigh Salterton there is a foot-path along the top of the cliffs and by by-ways to Exmouth, passing over Knoll Hill and through the quiet out-ofthe-way village of Littleham; this is a pleasant way, but there is one which, though a good deal further, is more exhilarating to the stout pedestrian, round by the headland of Orcomb; or there is the ordinary road by Withecomb-from which some pleasant detours may be made, among others to the little ruined sanctuary of St. John's in the Wilderness.

Exmouth is so called from its position by the mouth of the Exe. Leland styles it "a fisher townlet a little within the haven mouth." And a "fisher townlet" it remained for a very longwhile afterwards. "In truth," says Polwhele, writing towards the close of last century, "it was no other than an inconsiderable fishing-town, till one of the judges of the circuit, in a very infirm state of health, went thither to bathe, and received great benefit from the place. This happened about a century ago, which brought Exmouth into repute, first with the people of Exeter, and gradually with the whole county-I might add, indeed, the whole island; since Exmouth is not only the oldest, but, in general, the best frequented watering-place in Devonshire."

That judge was evidently a good judge; and it was a fortunate thing for Exmouth to be tried by him. The townsmen ought in gratitude to erect his statue in the choicest part of the town.

Exmouth was not, however, always a mere fisher townlet. In the reign of John it is said to have been

one of the chief ports on this coast; and to have contributed ten ships and one hundred and ninety-three seamen as its proportion of the fleet which Edward III. despatched, in 1347, against Calais. On the other hand, it does not now maintain the high position it once held among the watering-places of Devonshire: it is no longer the first. It may not have decreased in popularity or attraction, but it has not increased. has almost stood still while Torquay has rapidly advanced and to Torquay it must now yield the precedence.

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The Old Town was built along the foot of the hill and by the river side. "The sea at this time covered nearly the whole of the ground on which the northwestern part of the town is now built, and washed the base of the cliffs on the left-hand side of the present turnpike-road from Exeter." The New Town—that which is chiefly inhabited by visitants-is on the hillside and summit. Exmouth is not in itself a parish: but lies chiefly within the parish of Littleham. "The manor of Littleham and Exmouth," says the 'Route Book of Devon,' "has been since the Dissolution in the family of the Rolles; and the late Lord Rolle and his present surviving relict have been great and generous patrons to this town. The fine and capacious church, built in 1824, and the market-house in 1830; the plantations and walks under the Beacon; the seawall just completed; in short nearly all the public improvements carried out within these few years, with the exception of those executed by the late Mr. R. Webber, have been at their suggestion and expense."

Exmouth is well furnished with the various means and appliances that contribute to the requirements and pleasures of sea-side visitants. It has a good bathingplace on the beach, and baths in addition; libraries, assembly and subscription-rooms; hotels and lodginghouses of all sizes and with every aspect; public walks; good shops, and a good market; a church and several chapels. None of the buildings are such as to command much attention as works of art, but they are convenient and serviceable. The sea-wall is an important and a substantial work. It is some 1,800 feet long; and in addition to its primary purpose, it forms an excellent promenade and drive. The walks in and immediately around the town are of a superior character. Several within the town afford noble prospects. That in front of Louisa Terrace commands a view that is in very few towns equalled either for extent or beauty. Nearly the same may be said of Trefusis Terrace, and some other terraces of equally pleasant site, and unpleasant name. The Beacon Hill is very judiciously laid out as a public ground, with beds of flowers, evergreens, and ornamental shrubs. About the walks are placed rustic seats, and occasionally arbours. The views from different parts of Beacon Hill are remarkably good, and altogether it is a very agreeable spot and admirably suited for the purpose to which it has been applied.

From the town there stretches a long sand-bank far into the river. A little lower down the stream another

sand-bank, called the Warren, extends from the opposite side for two miles across the estuary. Just by the first sand-bank there is also an island, about mid-stream, called Shelley Sand; and outside the Warren, where the Exe disembogues itself into the sea, a similar but larger accumulation has formed, which is known as the Pole Sand. By these means the river is contracted within a very narrow winding channel where it enters the sea, although just above the Shelley Sand it had been a mile and a half across. The natural harbour thus formed withinside the sand-banks is called the Bight; and is an anchorage for vessels waiting for wind or tide to enable them to ascend the river, or work out from it and pursue their voyage.

The appearance of the river by Exmouth is very much that of a good-sized lake; and the town has a rather pleasing appearance in consequence. From the sands, Exmouth looks somewhat formal, but from the river it improves very much. The long terraces of white houses, rising behind each other on the hill-side from among groves of dark foliage, with the mass of meaner buildings at the base, the sand with its fishingboats and larger craft, and the broad sheet of water in front with the shipping riding at anchor upon it, compose together a pleasing and remarkable picture. But the finest view of the town-the view which exhibits best and most gracefully its peculiarities-is obtained on a bright clear day, at full tide, from the slopes on the opposite side of the river by Star Cross. The town rises on the hill-side in successive tiers of white houses, whose every-day character is lost by distance. On the heights, on either hand, are sprinkled numerous gay villas, each half embowered in its little plantation. Behind are the summits of loftier hills, clad in aërial tints. The broad blue lake, as it appears to be, repeats the various forms and hues in softened and tremulous lines; while a light skiff, or a deep-laden ship, sailing slowly along, imparts life and vigour to the whole scene. Exmouth has many attractive short walks in its vicinity; and many long ones also—but we must leave them all to the visitor's own exploration, and once more set forward on our journey.

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with a visit or two, serve to pass away the morningand tea-drinking the evening." How Exmouth would be horrified by such a description of its resources now!

DAWLISH.

From Exmouth there is a ferry to Star Cross, where there is a station of the South Devon Railway. It has been proposed to have steam-boats ply at regular hours, instead of the present sailing and row-boats, which are rather trying to the tender nerves of holiday-folks when the south-westerly wind causes a bit of a swell in the river. The alteration would, no doubt, be of some advantage to the town, though of little to the boatmen. Star Cross is one of the many small villages that have profited by the growth of migratory habits, and the tendency of the different migratory tribes to wend towards the Devonshire coast in their periodic flights. Star Cross was a small fishing village, whither a few Exeter epicures used occasionally to come to eat, at their native home, the oysters and shell-fish, which are said to have a peculiarly good flavour when taken fresh from their beds near the mouth of the Exe: now, though still a small place, it has its season, and its seasonable visitors, and professes to hold out some especial advantages. Be these as they may, it is said to be a thriving little place. Lying along the Exe, it is a cheerful and pleasant, though quiet village: there is an excellent landing-pier, formed by the Railway Company; and it would not be surprising if, in some of the turns of fashion, this till recently obscure and out-ofthe-way village were to become a bustling second-rate summer resort.

When here, the visitor should go on to Powderham Castle, the seat of the Earl of Devon. In Norman times Powderham belonged to the Bohuns, by a female descendant of whom it was carried by marriage, about the middle of the fourteenth century, to Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devon. The Courtenays possessed vast estates in this county: many of them have passed away long since, but Powderham has remained to the present day in their possession; and as was said, it is now the seat of the chief of the Courtenays. Gibbon, in his great work, the reader will remember, breaks off from the history of the Greek empire into a very long "di

From a note published by Polwhele, in his 'History of Devonshire,' we get a curious peep at the chief watering-place of Devon, towards the close of the eighteenth century. It is part of a letter written, hegression on the origin and singular fortune of the house says, "to the author, about fifteen years ago, (i.e. about 1780) by a friend at Exmouth." "The village is a very pretty one, and composed for the most part of cot houses, neat and clean, consisting of four or five rooms, which are generally let at a guinea a week. Exmouth boasts no public rooms or assemblies, save one card assembly, in an inconvenient apartment at one of the inns, on Monday evenings. The company meet at half-after five, and break up at ten-they play at shilling whist, or twopenny quadrille. We have very few young people here, and no diversions-no belles dames amusing to the unmarried, but some beldames unamusing to the married. Walking on a hill, which commands a view of the ocean, and bathing,

of Courtenay;" which, he thinks, "the purple of three emperors, who have reigned at Constantinople, will authorise or excuse." He follows the fortunes of the three principal branches, and shows how only the Courtenays of England "have survived the revolutions of eight hundred years;" the race of the ancient Greek emperors remaining in a "lineal descendant of Hugh, the first Earl of Devon, a younger branch of the Courtenays, who have been seated at Powderham Castle above four hundred years, from the reign of Edward the Third to the present hour." And he winds up the story with these philosophical reflections: "The Courtenays still retain the plaintive motto, [Ubi lapsus! Quod feci?] which asserts the innocence and deplores

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the fall of their ancient house. While they sigh for past greatness, they are doubtless sensible of present blessings in the long series of the Courtenay annals the most splendid era is likewise the most unfortunate; nor can an opulent peer of Britain be inclined to envy the emperors of Constantinople, who wandered over Europe to solicit alms for the support of their dignity and the defence of their capital."-( Decline and Fall,' c. lxi.)

We too, it will be seen, have here "ample room and verge enough" for the indulgence of historical digression and moral reflection; and also-the house itself being one of the lions of the locality-for the display of antiquarian lore and critical acumen. But the reader need not fear we are too compassionate of him to run a race after that fashion. We will just look round the park, and again jog on in our old, safe, steady, continuous amble.

Very little is left of the ancient Castle; or rather, what is left of the old castle has been transformed into a modern mansion, and very little appearance of antiquity remains. Admission to Powderham Park is readily granted, upon application. It is of great extent, and very picturesque in itself: the grounds stretch for a considerable distance along the Exe, and far up the hills to the north-east. From various parts there are views of great beauty; but one spot-the highest point -where a Prospect-tower is erected, is one of the most celebrated in this "land of the matchless view," as a native poet styles it. In one direction is the valley of the Exe, with the river winding through it to Exeter, where the city with the Cathedral forms the centre of the picture, and the hills beyond make a noble background. Southwards is the estuary of the Exe, with the town of Exmouth; and beyond all, the English Channel. Again, there is a grand view over the Haldon Hills; and in an opposite direction there is a rich prospect, backed by the Ottery Range.

if we may believe Risdon, it once was aguish. He says, "Exminster, so called of its site upon the river Exe, lieth so low, that the inhabitants are much subject to agues, through the ill-vapours and fogs." But that was written two hundred years ago, and it may have changed since then. We have not heard any complaints against its healthiness. Indeed, Risdon himself makes mention of a person, living in this or the next parish, whose longevity gives a very different idea of its salubrity :-"There some time lived in this parish one Stone, who was of so hard a grit, that he lived to the age of one hundred and twenty years." A tough old Stone that!

Adjoining Powderham is a quiet retired village, named Kenton, which is worth strolling to, as well on account of the beauty of its situation and the surrounding scenery, as of the picturesqueness of the village, and the superior character of the village church. Kenton was once, it is affirmed, a market-town, and a place of some trade. The Church bears all the appearance of having belonged to a more important place than the present village: it is large and handsome, and will delight the antiquary and the admirer of village churches. The inside is equally worthy of examination with the exterior. Of the numerous statues of saints that once adorned both the interior and exterior, many have been destroyed; but several still remain. On the screen, which is a remarkably fine one, is a series of painted figures of saints and prophets.

While here we may mention the half-decayed town of Topsham, about a couple of miles higher up the river, on the other side, just by the confluence of the Clist with the Exe, where the latter river suddenly increases in width from a quarter of a mile to threequarters. Topsham was once the port town of Exeter, and a full sharer in the ancient prosperity of that city. When the ship-canal was formed it was no longer necessary for large vessels to load and unload at Topsham, which gradually lost much of its trade and importance in consequence: it however had a considerable commerce of its own; its share in the Newfoundland trade is said to have been larger than that of any other place except London. There is yet some export and coasting trade; but the chief employment is in ship-building and its dependent manufactures. It has a population of about four thousand souls. Of late there has arisen a desire on the part of the inhaEx-bitants to render it attractive to strangers, who may prefer to take up their temporary abode at a little distance inland rather than on the coast; and many improvements have recently been made in consequence.

The Courtenays appear to have had another seat in the adjoining parish of Exminster-" a great manorhouse where the Earls of Devon resided, and where William Courtenay, Archbishop of Canterbury, was born," says the historian of the family. There was certainly a ruined mansion here when Leland wrote: he says, "Exminster is a pretty townlet, where be the ruins of a manor-place embattled in the front. I trow it belonged to the Marquis of Exeter." Only the name of it-the Court House'-remains now. minster is a pretty townlet. It lies along the riverside, and has much of that level gentle kind of beauty we are accustomed to associate with the Flemish or Dutch landscapes. Its quiet meadows, with the fat cattle about them, the tower of the village church rising from the trees, the roofs of the little village, the curling smoke, the broad river beyond, with the sail of a fishing-boat or slow-moving barge passing occasionally along, these, and a calm evening sky overhead, make a picture such as Cuyp would have loved to paint or Bloomfield to describe. Its low situation, however, gives it in moist weather rather an aguish look; and,

Topsham is placed in a very pleasant situationstretching for a mile or more along the east bank of the river, where it widens into the appearance of a lake, or an arm of the sea. The town consists of one main street, a mile in length, at the bottom of which is the quay. The older part is irregularly built, and the houses are mostly mean: but many houses of a better class have been erected within the last few years. These are so situated as to command very fine views of the

estuary of the Exe with the rich scenery of its banks, and the sea beyond. The Strand is well planted with elms, and would form an agreeable walk in itself; but of course its value is greatly increased by the beautiful scenery which is beheld from it. The church stands near the middle of the town, on a high cliff which rises abruptly from the river. It is an old building, but there is nothing to notice in its architecture. Inside the church are two monuments, by Chantrey: one is to the memory of Admiral Sir J. T. Duckworth; the other of his son Colonel Duckworth, who was killed at the battle of Albuera. The church-yard affords wide and rich prospects both up and down the river, and over the surrounding country. A good deal that is picturesque will be met with about the crazy-looking town itself; and some amusement will be found in watching the employments of the townsmen.

Although we mention Topsham here, it will be most conveniently visited-and it is worth visiting-from Exeter. It is only three miles distance from that city, and omnibuses are frequently running-if the stranger does not like so long a walk. We have thus, after a long ramble, returned almost to our starting-place: but we have not yet got to our journey's end; and we now retrace our way to the sea-side. But we need not walk. It is a delicious sail down the Exe, from Topsham to the Warren. The scenery along the banks is of the finest kind of broad placid river scenery. The noble woods of Powderham, running down to the water, dignify and adorn the right bank; to which the villages of Powderham and Star Cross add considerable variety. The lofty tower of the Railway-station is a noticeable feature here; and the passage of a train along the brink of the river imparts to it an air of novelty. On the left bank is the very pretty village of Lympstone-a retired little place, which folks who think Exmouth too gay or town-like, yet wish to reside near it, are very fond of. The stroll to Lympstone and by the neighbouring heights, is one of the most favourite with the Exmouth residents. Continuing the sail down the river, Exmouth soon becomes the chief feature; then the long wild sandbanks engage the attention, till the broad ocean comes into full view. We may land at the little hillock, which bears the tempting name of Mount Pleasant: in truth a pleasant spot enough, and in high repute with Exeter Cockneys, who are wont in the summer-time to recreate in the tea-gardens of the inn on its summit.

From Mount Pleasant there is a pleasant way along the summit of the cliffs to Dawlish: but there is also another, which we shall take, along their base.

The cliffs on this west side of the Exe are lofty and precipitous. During westerly gales the sea beats against them with considerable force, whence, being of a rather soft red sandstone, they have become pierced and worn in a strange wild manner. A shattered breakwater of massive stone stands an evidence of the power of the waves. The appearance of the rocks at this Langstone Cliff is at all times highly picturesque; but when the westering sun brightens the projecting

masses into an intense golden red, and casts the hollows into a deeper gloom, while the heaving billow breaks against the base in snowy spray, the effect becomes exceedingly grand and impressive.

Through this projecting point of Langstone Cliff the railway passes, in a deep cutting. It soon emerges, and pursues its course along the base of the cliffs to Dawlish. Alongside, for the whole distance-about a mile and a half-a strong sea-wall has been built, the top of which forms an admirable and very favourite walk. It was a bold venture to carry the line in such close proximity to the sea, along so exposed a shore. Hitherto, however, it has received no injury. But the sea-wall has not escaped without damage in the stormy weather of this last winter the sea forced a way through it in two or three places. As soon as the waves had effected an entrance at the base, they drove through with irresistible fury, forcing out the stones from the top and making a clean breach that way; but we believe in no case did they break through the inner wall to the line. In those parts which experience has shown to be most exposed, measures have been taken to withstand the fury of the waves: and we may hope that the skill and daring of the engineer will be successful.

Dawlish is situated nearly midway between the mouths of the Exe and the Teign, in a cove formed by the projecting headlands of Langstone Cliff on the north, and the Parson and Clerk Rocks on the south. The town itself lies along a valley which extends westward from the sea: whence, according to Polwhele, its name-Dol is signifying a fruitful mead on a river's side; a very pleasant derivation, though a rather too fanciful one. A certain Dr. Downman, who many years ago wrote an epic, entitled 'Infancy,' and who wished to celebrate therein the curative qualities of Dawlish, seems to have had some misgivings whether the barbarous sound of its name ought not to render it inadmissible in so sublime a song: but happily for the place he resolved otherwise, and Dawlish is handed down to posterity in "immortal verse." He concludes his Fourth Book with this apostrophe:

"O Dawlish! though unclassic be thy name,
By every Muse unsung, should from thy tide,
To keen poetic eyes alone reveal'd,
From the cerulean bosom of the deep
(As Aphrodite rose of old) appear

Health's blooming goddess, and benignant smile
On her true votary; not Cythera's fane,
Nor Eryx, nor the laurel boughs which waved
On Delos erst, Apollo's natal soil,
However warm enthusiastic youth
Dwelt on those seats enamour'd, shall to me
Be half so dear."

And he promises that if Dawlish's " pure encircling waves," besides exhibiting to him this poetic vision, will only restore the timid virgin's bloom, health to the child, and "with the sound, firm-judging mind, imagination, arrayed in her once glowing vest," to the man,

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he will continue, despite its unclassic name, to sing the slopes of the hills; and along the strand and by the praises of the happy town:

"To thee my lyre

Shall oft be tuned, and to thy Nereids green Long, long unnoticed, in their haunts retired. Nor will I cease to prize thy lovely strand, Thy tow'ring cliffs, nor the small babbling brook, Whose shallow current laves thy thistled vale." We are convinced now that we have not keen poetic eyes. We have in vain looked on the cerulean bosom of the deep, for the blooming goddess to appear. Once indeed we fancied we were about to behold her rise, as Aphrodite rose of old, when lo! as poor Slender found his Ann Page, "she was a great lubberly boy." Polwhele was afraid (some fifty years ago) that "the conclusion of this description may ere long be attributed to fancy; as a canal, cut through the vale, hath destroyed the natural beauties of the rivulet." Certainly the little stream, whether it be called babbling brook, or rivulet, or canal, is sufficiently unpoetical now. But there is something to remind one of Dr. Downman's description if there be no thistles in the vale there are plenty of donkeys.

At the commencement of the present century, Dawlish was in the transition state from a humble fishing village to a genteel watering-place. "In general," says a "In general," says a writer about that time, "the houses are low cottages, some tiled, the greater number thatched. On Dawlish Strand there is a handsome row of new buildings, twelve in number. Other commodious houses have lately been erected nearer the water." Dawlish gradually grew into notice and favour, as this coast became better known; and it has now, for some years past, taken a high rank among the smaller watering-places of Devonshire. At the last census it contained above three thousand inhabitants.

For the invalid, and those who need or desire a warm winter abode, yet wish for a less gay neighbourhood than Torquay, Dawlish has great attractions: and it is in equal estimation as a summer sea-side residence. The valley along which the town is built is well sheltered on all sides, except the seaward; and the temperature is said by Dr. Shapter, and others who have paid particular attention to the climate of the coast of Devon, to be warmer and more equable than any other of the winter watering-places, except Torquay; and some doctors will hardly except it. Here, as well as elsewhere on this coast, the myrtle, the hydrangea, and many another tender plant, grows and blooms freely in the open air. And the situation is as pleasant as the temperature is mild and genial. Lying embayed in a cove, which is terminated at each extremity by bluff bold cliffs, the beach in calm weather always affords a picturesque and cheerful walk. Through the centre of the valley flows a rivulet, across which several bridges are thrown; on either side of the stream is a greensward, with dry gravel walks, carefully kept so as at all times to be an agreeable warm parade. The houses and shops are built on both sides of the valley; a few villa residences are on the

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Teignmouth road are hotels, public rooms, and terraces, and detached residences chiefly appropriated to the uses of the visitants.

The public buildings are convenient, but not remarkable. The old church of Dawlish, at the western extremity of the town, was a very ancient pile and of some architectural interest. It was, with the exception of the tower, pulled down about five-and-twenty years ago, and the present edifice erected in its place. Inside the church are two monuments, by Flaxman; they are both to the memory of ladies; but they are not to be classed high among the productions of the great sculptor. The South Devon Railway forms a noticeable feature of Dawlish. The line is carried, partly on a viaduct, between the town and the sea. When the formation of the railway was first proposed, it was warmly resisted by the inhabitants, who anticipated that it would destroy the character of the town as a quiet retreat. Such, however, has not been the result. The Railway Company constructed their works so as not to interfere with, but rather increase, the convenience of the visitor; and their buildings are of an ornamental kind. The noble sea-wall affords a new and excellent promenade. The viaduct is both novel and pleasing in appearance. The method of traction originally adopted on this line, was the unfortunate Atmospheric System. As on the Croydon Railway it has been abandoned, and the locomotive has taken its place; but the enginehouses remain. One of these was erected at Dawlish, and it is greatly to be desired that some use may be found for it, as, though not more ornamental than was appropriate for the purpose to which it was to be applied, it is really a good-looking building. It is in the Italian style, the campanile serving to carry off the snioke. The material of which it is constructed is the red limestone, or Devonshire marble as it is called; and its appearance ought to be a lesson to the Devonshire builders. Almost all the houses of a first or second-rate character in this part of the county are built of this stone; but in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred it has been thought proper to cover the surface with composition. No material could be more suitable or more in keeping with the general character of the scenery than this red limestone, and none less pleasing than the paltry imitative white stucco. The Devonshire marble is beautifully veined and admits of a high polish-it is really surprising that architects have not, in some of the costly residences erected along this coast, tried the effect of introducing the polished stone in the ornamental parts, while the general surface was formed of the rough blocks. The cost of working may be a sufficient objection to the polished stone; but to cover it in any case with the offensive plaster is most grievous.

The cliffs on the west of Dawlish have been strangely pierced and riven by the violence of the sea. Many huge lumps of rock stand out quite detached from the parent cliff. (Cut No. 4.) The same thing occurs elsewhere, as we have already had occasion to mention,

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