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5.—TEIGNMOUTH,

are good houses and terraces of the ordinary watering people might as well be applied to some use : accordplace species. There are in the town and opposite the ingly it was levelled, the centre was laid down with sea the usual public buildings, baths, and hotels. The turf, and around it was carried an excellent carriageshowiest building in Teignmouth is the Public Rooms, drive; while between this and the beach a broad walk which stands in the centre of the Crescent fronting the was formed, extending above half a mile along the seaDen ; it is a large structure, with an Ionic pediment, and side. Thus, what had hitherto been a deformity became a Doric colonnade. It contains a spacious ball-room, not merely an ornament, but one of the most valuable billiard and reading-rooms, and all the other rooms additions which could have been made to the town. usual in such an edifice. The lighthouse is plain, but Within the last year the sea-wall of the railway has substantial; it is intended to warn vessels off the sand, prolonged this walk for more than a mile farther. The and, by the aid of a light fixed on a house on the Den, people of Teignmouth are justly proud of the Den. to guide them in entering the river. There are two The cove, within which Teigninouth lies, is a very churches in Teignmouth, both comparatively recent, beautiful one: the broad blue ocean, which in all its and positively ugly. Probably it would be hard to wondrous beauty stretches before you, is studded with find another town that has only two churches, and both vessels constantly passing to and fro; occasionally, so ill-favoured. East Teignmouth Church is a singular one and another ship is seen working in or out of the building : it is said to be intended as an example of harbour, unless it be when the curl of the waves over the Saxon style,—if so, it is a very bad example. The the bar at low water indicates the hidden danger; and interior is described as being “warm and comfortable ;" the Den not only affords the most convenient means matters that are no doubt appreciated on a Sunday of observing the beauty and interest of the scene, but morning. West Teignmouth Church has no redeeming in itself would possess great attractions for the gay quality. In form it is an octagon, with a queer tower folks who visit these towns, as a parade whereon to at one of the angles. The interior might raise a doubt take their daily exercise, or to assemble in order to see whether the design was not taken from a riding-circus, and be seen. The Den appears to great advantage to which use it might, with a little alteration of the pit on a summer evening, when the sun is sinking behind and gallery, be readily converted.

the distant cliffs. The moonlight view of the sea on a The glory of Teignmouth is its promenade,-unri- fine clear night is marvellously fine. Half the town valled on this coast, and not to be easily surpassed seems sometimes to be assembled on the Den, if the elsewhere. The Den was a wide, uneven, unsightly full moon be particularly brilliant. sandy waste, lying between the sea and the town, and ex- The country about Teignmouth is of uncommon tending from East Teignmouth to the river. This waste beauty: in every direction there are pleasant and it at length entered into the imagination of the towns- attractive walks. From the hills, which rise far aloft

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these parts.

behind the town, the prospects of mingled sea and land she little thought of how ancient date was the custom are deservedly famous. But the sketch we have already of preparing the rich scalded cream in the manner she given in speaking of the walks in the neighbourhood was describing to me. · Auncient!' she exclaimed : of Sidmouth, must suffice as a sort of general description" l'se warrant he's as old as Adam ; for all the best of the characteristics of Devonshire scenery; and here, things in the world were to be had in Paradise. And," as in other places, we must be content with a mere adds our fair authoress, " I must admit, if all the best reference. It would be improper, however, not to things in the world were really to be found in Paradise, speak particularly of the advantages that Teignmouth our cream might certainly there claim a place." Let the affords for aquatic excursions. The boats and boatmen reader try it at breakfast next time he is in Devonsbire, of the town are celebrated ; and the visitor will find a and he will be of the same opinion. sail along the coast towards Babbicombe, or up the If it be not thought worth while to hire a boat for a Teign, a treat of no ordinary kind. There is a regatta sail up the river, there are market-boats which ply at Teignmouth every season, which is famed all through daily between Teignmouth and Newton, that carry

passengers for a trifling fare, in which a place can be The Teign, although not so romantic in its lower taken ; and the scenery of the river may be well encourse as the Dart, has much of loveliness and some- joyed from them. Just above the town the Teign is thing of majesty. As you ascend it the valley opens crossed by a bridge, which was erected about twenty in a series of exquisite reaches; the banks at one years ago, and which is said to be the longest bridge in moment descend to the edge of the water in gentle England. The roadway is supported on iron trusses, wooded slopes, and presently rise in abrupt cliffs ; which form some four or five-and-thirty arches. Over while ever and again is seen on the hill sides, or in the main channel there is a swing-bridge, which opens some sheltered vale, a cottage, or a little collection of so as to permit the passage of ships up the river. This cottages :

bridge is another of the pleasant walks of Teignmouth. “Cluster'd like stars some few, but single most,

At low water there is on either side a muddy swamp, And lurking dimly in their shy retreats;

but at high tide the view from the bridge up the river Or glancing on each other cheerful looks,

is very beautiful, especially at sunset. The richlyLike separated stars with clouds between.”

wooded valley through which the broad stream winds Wordsworth.

is backed by hills, receding behind each other till the To some one or other of these quiet, retired places, distance is closed by the lofty Tors of Dartmoor. parties are often made for a summer holiday. Combe Looking downwards, the river, with Teignmouth on and Coombeinteignhead Cellars, are especial favourites one side, and Shaldon on the other, is singularly picwith those who love to go junketting. Devonshire, the turesque : and it is still finer and more rememberable reader no doubt knows, is famous for two delicious if beheld on a bright night, when the full moon is high preparations of milk-junkets and clotted cream. They over the distant sea, and sends a broad path of lustre are imitated in other countries, but in Devonshire only along the river,—which appears like a lake closed in are they to be had in perfection. The junket, which by the sand-bank that then seems to be united to the is made by mixing spirits and spices with cream pre- opposite Ness, -and the white houses that lie within pared in a particular manner, is properly a summer reach of the moon's beams shine out in vivid contrast dish ; but the cream is for every season. Cobbett, in the to the masses of intense shadow. pleasantest and healthiest of his books, the Rural Rides,' relates how, on halting on a dreary day at an

TORQUAY. inn in Sussex, and finding to his sorrow there was no bacon in the house, he at once resolved to proceed On leaving Teignmouth we may cross the river by again on his journey, though the night was drawing on the bridge and look at Ringmoor, or by the ferry to the and it was pouring of rain :- the want of bacon, he picturesque village of Shaldon, which both from its says, making him fearful as to all other comforts. And fishery and as a watering-place may be considered as he was right. He knew the country well; and he an adjunct to Teignmouth. The Torquay road lies knew, therefore, that the lack of bacon in a Sussex inn along the summits of the lofty cliffs, and though too was a sure symptom of ill housekeeping. In Devon- much enclosed within high banks, there may be had shire the test is a different one. Here the rambler from it numerous views of vast extent.

But more may be certain, if he be not served with clotted cream striking combinations of sea and land are to be found to his breakfast, there must be something amiss; and nearer the edge of the cliffs. Teignmouth, with the he will do well at once to shift bis quarters.

coast beyond, is seen here to great advantage. (Cut Mrs. Bray very properly extols the junkcts and No. 5.) The coast from Teignmouth to Torquay is all cream of her favourite Devonshire: and she adds a along indented with greater or less recesses, and as the good illustration of their excellence. After speaking rocks are high and rugged, many of these coves have a of the references made to them in old authors, she says most picturesque appearance.

A larger one, Babbithat she one day observed to an old dame, of whose combe Bay, is considered to be one of the finest of the cream she had just been partaking in her dairy, and smaller bays on the coast. Here, till not many years who had explained her method of preparing it, " that ago, were only a dozen rude fishermen's hovels, which

finest parts

seemed to grow out of the rough rocky banks : now close by, are a few picturesque fragments of a building there are numerous goodly villas with their gardens and that once belonged to the monks of Tor Abbey ; was plantations, scattered along the hill-sides ; hotels have afterwards a seat of the Earl of Londonderry; and been built, and there reigns over all an air of gentility then a farmhouse. and refinement;-a poor compensation for the old, un- Nearly all the way from Teignmouth the stranger cultivated, native wildness that has yanished before it. will have observed, not without surprise, the number

St. Mary Church, just above Babbicombe Bay, has of large and expensive residences that have been also altered with the changing times. From a quiet recently erected on almost every available and many country village, it has grown into a place of some resort, an unpromising) spot. Many appear to have been and houses fitted for the reception of wealthy visitors begun without a proper reckoning of the cost, and are have been built and are building on every side. There standing in an unfinished state ; many that are finished is not much to notice in the village. The church is a are ' to let,' but more are occupied. As Torquay is plain building of various dates, and not uninteresting to approached, the number rapidly increases, until on the the architectural antiquary. It stands on an elevated skirts of the town there appears, as it has been approsite, and the tall tower serves as a land-mark for a long priately termed, “a forest of villas.” What old Fuller distance. In the church-yard may be seen a pair of calls " the plague of building," seems to have alighted stocks and a whipping-post in excellent preservation. here in its strongest form. But whatever may be the While at St. Mary's the stranger will do well to visit case further off, it is said that a villa of the best kind Mr. Woodly's marble works: the show-rooms, which are is hardly ever completed and furnished in the immediate open to him, contain a wonderful variety of the Devon- vicinity of the town before a tenant is found ready to shire marbles, wrought into chimney-pieces and various secure it. articles of use or ornament. Some of the specimens No other watering-place in England has risen so are very beautiful.

rapidly into importance as Torquay. Leland indicates A short distance further is Bishopstowe, the seat of its existence without mentioning its name. Speaking the Bishop of Exeter: a large and handsome building of Torbay he says, " There is a pier and succour for of recent erection, in the Italian Palazzo style. It stands fisher-boats in the bottom by Torre priory.” What it in a commanding situation in one of the very

was in the middle of the sixteenth century it remained, of this coast; and the terraces and towers must afford with little alteration, to the end of the eighteenth. the most splendid prospects. Immediately below the “ The living generation," says the 'Route Book of Bishop's palace is Anstis Cove, the most romantic spot Devon,' " has seen the site where now stand stately from Sidmouth to the Dart. (Cut, No. 6.) It is a buildings, handsome shops, and a noble pier, with a deep indentation in the cliffs, where a stream appears busy population of 8000 souls, occupied by a few at some time or other to have worked out its way in a miserable-looking fishing-huts, and some loose stones bold ravine to the ocean. On either hand the little bay jutting out from the shore, as a sort of anchorage or is bounded by bold wild rocks. On the left a bare head- protection for the wretched craft of its inhabitants.” land juts out into the sea, which has worn it, though of | The same work suggests a reason, in addition to the hardest marble, into three or four rugged peaks. On causes that have led to its unrivalled popularity, for the right, the craggy sides of the lofty hill are covered the remarkable increase of houses :-“ The increase of thick with wild copse and herbage, while from among buildings and houses here has been, perhaps, greater the loose fragments of rock project stunted oak, and than in any other town—[watering-place is meant : Birkbirch, and ash trees, their trunks overgrown with mosses enhead and other commercial and manufacturing towns and lichens, and encompassed with tangled heaps of have, of course, increased to a much greater extent]trailing plants. The waves roll heavily into the narrow in the kingdom. This, in a great measure, may be cove, and dash into snowy foam against the marble attributed, in addition to its beauty of situation and rocks and upon the raised beach. A lovely spot it is salubrity of climate, to the natural advantages it posas a lonely wanderer or a social party could desire for sesses for building. The whole district being nearly a summer-day's enjoyment. The Devonshire marble, one large marble quarry, the renter or possessor of a which is now in so much request, is chiefly quarried few feet square has only to dig for his basement story, from Anstis Cove and Babbicombe Bay. While here, and the material, with the exception of a little timber, Kent's Hole, a cavern famous for the fossil remains which is landed before his door, for the completion of which have been discovered in it, and so well known his superstructure, is found.” from the descriptions of Dr. Buckland and other geo- Torquay lies in a sunny and sheltered cove at the logists, may be visited, if permission has been previously north-eastern extremity of the noble Torbay. Lofty obtained of the Curator of the museum at Torquay. hills surround it on all sides except the south, where The cavern is said to be 600 feet in length, and it has it is open to the sea. The houses are built on the several chambers and winding passages. Numerous sides of the hills, which rise steeply from the bosom of stalactites depend from the roof, and the floor is covered the bay. Thus happily placed, the town enjoys almost by a slippery coating of stalagmite: the place is very all the amenities of a more southern clime : the temcurious, but has little of the impressiveness of the perature is mild and equable, beyond perhaps that of caverns of Yorkshire and the Peak. At Tor-wood, any other part of the island. In winter the air is

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