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of cars ;

a smaller number of coaches and of carts than in there half a century later, may be seen in the 'Sketches London, there appears to be a much larger proportion of Ireland Sixty Years ago :' and what it was before

which are indeed so numerous, and in such and after the Union is told in many a grave volume general request among all classes, that one is led to and scattered memoir. Tbat well-abused event unbelieve that in Dublin everybody makes a point of questionably wrought a vast alteration in the Irish riding who has sixpence in his pocket to pay for a metropolis. When Parliament no longer assembled . set-down.'*

there, the 'notables' ceased to make it their residence ; Besides the broad, well-built, and thronged streets, and the tone of manners gradually changed : yet the there are several very large squares, surrounded by city itself suffered no decay, but has rather gone on handsome mansions. The river, in its passage through steadily increasing in size and population, and improving the city, is confined within thick granite walls, and is in appearance: may it continue to increase also in crossed by nine bridges, below the first of which it is prosperity. crowded with ships and steamers, moored along the We will now, if you please, look a little more closely quays. The whole conveys the impression of a noble, at the city. The main streets, we have said, are of a wealthy, and a busy city. So long as he keeps to striking appearance. The two grand thoroughfares the main thoroughfares, the visitor is full of admiration are the Quays, as the roadway by the Liffey is called, of Dublin; but as he extends his peregrinations, he which, as was mentioned, runs east and west, through soon becomes aware that it is encircled with an undue the centre of the city; and Sackville and Grafton proportion of wretched, poverty-stricken, and unwhole- Streets, which run at right angles to the quays, or some streets and alleys, which do, indeed, not merely north and south. There are several other streets hardly surround the city, but, at every turn, force their way | inferior in importance to these, and many more that up into the very heart of it.

are in nowise remarkable : altogether the city is said to We cannot give even a cursory view of the history contain 800 streets,—but we should think the number of Dublin, as we have done in noticing other cities and overrated. towns. The history of Dublin is too intimately blended Sackville Street deserves all the admiration which with the history of Ireland to allow of its being told the citizens bestow upon it. It is one of the noblest without running to greater length than our space streets in the kingdom. Its unusual width-120 feet permits, and trenching on matters we wish to avoid throughout-imparts to it an air of majesty which the Its epochs, its changes, and its fortunes, are involved style and arrangement of the houses, and also of the with all the great and small events of the national buildings which terminate the vista in each direction, story. Yet the history of Dublin would be an interest- are, on the whole, well calculated to sustain. But it is ing theme in the hands of one who, while master of not so rich in public edifices as some other streets, and his subject and able to treat it without party spirit, perhaps its great width is an inconvenience to foot-pascould also reanimate the past, and restore to present sengers, while it certainly makes the houses, though times the Dublin of old. Strange have been its changes, really lofty, appear to want elevation. Near the centre and curious would be its domestic history. The Town of Sackville Street stands the Nelson Column,--one of of the Ford of Hurdles (for so native historians translate those erections which the perversity of architects and its Celtic name of Bally-ath-cliath); the Eblana of committees have so superabundantly inflicted on the Ptolemy; the Dubh-lynn, or Black-pool of somewhat memory of our great naval hero. On the top of this, later times, must remain hidden in the dim mist that as on all these pillars, the unlucky admiral is perched, envelopes all the early history of the land of Erin; and like another St. Simon, for the edification and coneven the Four Masters, were they to return to earth, templation of rooks and skylarks ; he is beyond the ken would hardly be able to dissipate the obscurity. What of human eyes, unless assisted by a good telescope. was its condition in the glorious days of Brian Boroimhe, The column is Doric; the shaft, which is fluted, is, or of Malachi of the Collar of Gold; or in the gloomier with the capital, about eighty feet high; it stands on a days of Strongbow, and later Saxon conquerors, we pedestal about thirty feet high; the podium on which can scarcely expect or desire to learn ;

but as we the statue is placed is twelve feet and a half high. descend the stream of time clearer pictures become Nelson himself is thirteen feet high, and his height from visible. Till recently, the very houses spoke of the the ground is about 125 feet. We can say nothing as to influence of the English spirit which prevailed in the the sculpture, for we were unable to make it out, but reign of queen Elizabeth.† Hints as to its state in certainly the column (though in itself as little to be comthe succeeding century are not wanting. Then come mended as that in Trafalgar Square) assists in giving an abundant notices of the Dublin in which Swift lived appearance of dignity to the street. It presents an imand ruled. How remarkable was the state of society posing central object for the eye to rest upon, and pre

vents the sort of straggling unconnected look which the * A drive direct from any part of the city to any other

two sides of an extremely broad street have a tendency part, without alighting on the way, is called 'set-down ;' and the legal fare for it is only sixpence--which, as the car

to exhibit. Standing, too, as it does, at the junction of carries four passengers, is enough to tempt those who do the long line of Henry and Talbot Streets with Sackville not like walking.

Street, it is seen conspicuously from many points. Close † See Whitelaw's ‘History of Dublin.'

by the Nelson Pillar is the Post Office, a very handsome building, erected about thirty years ago from the in the eighteenth century; but being found too small, designs of Francis Johnston. It has a frontage of was subsequently greatly enlarged; it was completed about 220 feet, is 150 feet in depth, and fifty feet high. in the form in which it now appears in 1794, at The chief feature is a fine hexastyle portico, of the a cost of £95,000. After the Union, being no longer Ionic order, which is eighty feet wide, and projects over required for legislative purposes, it was sold to the the footpath. The pediment is surmounted by a statue Governor and Company of the Bank of Ireland for of Hibernia in the centre, with others at the extre- the sum of £40,000, and an annual rent of £240 :mities of Mercury and Fidelity. The building itself is and by them it will doubtless be held till that fine constructed of mountain granite, the portico of Port- morning when O'Connell's oft-repeated prediction shall land stone. Architectural critics may doubtless find be fulfilled, and Erin see her chosen sons once more some imperfections in the style, but to an ordinary assembled in College Green. On the whole this is the observer its appearance is at once simple, dignified, and finest building in Dublin, and one of the very finest substantial.

in the kingdom. It is far grander than the Bank of One of the most favourite points of view, to which England-forming, instead of a number of 'pretty the citizens lead a stranger in order to show the interior bits' like that much-praised pile, a consistent and of the city to advantage, is Carlisle Bridge. From it magnificent whole. In form it is nearly a semicircle. you look along the Liffey on one hand, full of ships, The grand front looking on College Green consists of the quays alive with a busy and noisy multitude, the a noble colonnade of Ionic pillars raised on a flight road bordered by goodly buildings, the chief of which, of steps, and ranged round three sides of a spacious the Custom House, serves as a crowning grace to the quadrangular recess in which is the court-yard. The picture. On the other hand, the Liffey, as it winds colonnade supports an entablature and cornice of the gently between its broad, granite embankments, is seen same order, surmounted by an attic. In the centre crossed by several bridges : the quays, though little of the recess projects a fine portico of four Ionic used for commerce, present abundant signs of activity; columns, sustaining a tympanum, in which appear, in numerous public buildings and churches are visible bas-relief, the royal arms; while the apex is ornawholly or in part; the classic dome of the Four Courts mented with a colossal statue of Hibernia, supported rises high above the meaner structures; and in the by Fidelity on the western, and Commerce on the extreme distance are the wooded heights of Phenix eastern points. Circular screen walls behind columns, Park, crowned by the Wellington Testimonial. West- surmounted with an entablature and cornice, run from ward is Sackville Street, with its column and stately each extremity of the central pile, and connect it with buildings, the distance being terminated by the Rotundo. the eastern and western fronts. The former of these, Eastwards, Olier Street and Westmoreland Street di- facing College Street, is a beautiful Corinthian portico verge, each affording more than commonly pleasing of six pillars, the tympanum of which is surmounted effects of street architecture. But perhaps Grafton by a figure of Fortitude, with Justice on the one side Street, or College Green, the very centre of the busiest and Liberty on the other. The western portico is part of the city, where the magnificent fronts of Trinity Ionic." (M'Glashan's Dublin.') The architect College and the Bank are seen in combination, presents employed in the enlargement and completion of the the most striking appearance to the stranger. We have building was Gandon, to whose genius Dublin owes so selected College Green for an engraving, (Cut No. 1), much of its splendour. Since its conversion into a because, though perhaps less striking than Grafton bank the interior has of course undergone an entire Street, it is more adapted for a wood-cut. The eques-change-except the House of Lords, which yet retains trian statue in the front is the celebrated statue of very much of its original appearance. In the recess William III., which was the object of so many party which was occupied by the throne, now stands a statue contests, both with pen and shillelagh, in the more of George the Third. pugnacious days of "ould Ireland."

Trinity College is also a noble pile; worthy of the The Bank is the building which Swift has celebrated metropolitan university. To Cantabs and Oxonians, in his terrible verses, entitled 'The Legion Club.' who are so accustomed to associate Gothic architecture “As I stroll the city oft, I

with collegiate edifices, it is perhaps at first sight a See a building large and lofty ;

little disappointing; while in the eyes of pragmatic Not a bow-shot from the college

mediæval ecclesiologists it is an abomination. We conHalf the globe from sense and knowledge; fess if it were to do again we should prefer Gothic to By the prudent architect

Grecian for such a building, but we are well content Placed against the church direct,

to take it as it is—and rejoice that a classic style being Making good my grandam's jest, Near the church'-you know the rest."

chosen, so fine a building is the result.

Trinity College was founded in the 34th year of the In other words, it is the old Irish Parliament House, reign of Queen Elizabeth (1592), under the title of where, before the Union, the Irish representatives the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, near “Sat in grand committee

Dublin.' This title it still retains, though it is to all How to plague and starve the city.”

purposes a university-and would be better styled, as The original House of Parliament was erected early it often is, Dublin University. The original found

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a very

ation consisted of a provost, three fellows, and three of the more eminent scholars of Trinity Coll scholars. As increased by various augmentations and also for elaborate monumental group,

ii benefactions, it now consists of the provost, seven of Provost Baldwin. It consists of several fiş senior fellows, twenty-three junior fellows, with ten is much admired : the sculptor was a native a fellowships recently founded by the college, the Hewetson. various professors and teachers, seventy-five scholars, On the south-side of the great quadrang and thirty sizars. The number of students generally refectory; a building which every one fam averages about 1,400. If it cannot exhibit a roll of the English colleges will be likely to turn scholars rivalling those of Oxford or Cambridge, it has some interest. But it is disappointing. In a list of which it may well be proud.

edifices, classic dining-rooms seem but poor s The grand front of Trinity College is turned towards for the noble old Gothic halls. This, for exai College Green. It is about 300 feet long, and three to speak irreverently,) reminds one but too f stories in height; the order is Corinthian. The centre an English provincial assembly-room. How consists of a pediment supported by four columns; a fine room, and of ample proportions, be the wings are terminated by pavilions, which orna- seventy-five feet long, by thirty-five wide mented with coupled pilasters, and raised a story higher many high. The portraits form its chief a than the rest of the front. Altogether the effect is among them the most noteworthy are those o rich and stately. The large quadrangle, in which are and Pitt of the Irish House of Commons, the chapel, the library, the refectory, the theatre, and and Flood. lodgings for the fellows, is of noble proportions, being Perhaps, however, the room which will mo 570 feet long by 270 feet broad. It is consequently much the ordinary visitor is the Museum. The, co larger than the quadrangles of any of the English Col- a very general one ; there are minerals, fossils leges; Trinity College, Cambridge, being 334 feet long, rian relics, South Sea and Indian idols, wea by 325 feet where widest; and Christ Church, Oxford, garments, and so forth. But the portion w 264 feet by 261 feet. But though the several buildings chiefly attract the stranger is the collection are sufficiently imposing, it, to our thinking, has by Irish antiquities, which is varied and tolerab no means the same venerable collegiate air as either sive,-too much so for us to touch upon here of those we have mentioned. The next quadrangle, Supposing the visitor to be interested in Park Square, which is 280 feet by 194 feet, is recent mains, we strongly advise him not to negl and common-place. The third quadrangle is com- in Dublin, to visit the Museum of the Ro monly known by a name of unpleasant sound and as. Academy, which is just by the College, i, e., i sociations-Botany Bay: both these are chiefly appro- Street, opposite the Provost's House. The priated to apartments for the students. Beyond these demy was founded towards the close of the las quadrangles there is the College Park, a pleasant piece “ for the study of polite literature, science, of ground of about twenty acres, planted with trees, quities,” to quote the terms of the Act of Inco and containing the observatory and some other college The study of Irish archæology, and the collectir building; it is open to the public. There are also antiquities, have been from the first the most gardens for the fellows. Several of the buildings features of the Institution. The results are deserve inspection.

The chapel, which is on the the publication of many elaborate memoirs, a north side of the great quadrangle, is a neat edifice, contents of the Museum. This is by far Corinthian in style, the architect of which was Sir and finest collection of Celtic remains in t William Chambers. The interior is handsomely fitted Many of the specimens in gold, silver, and up: the choir is celebrated : the choral service is open precious metals are both “rich and rare.” to the public. The library is a very handsome build- sist of torques, and other personal ornamen ing, three stories high. The façade, which is 270 feet in quaries, crosiers, patens, and other articles length, is built of mountain granite, and has a very fine with religious purposes. There is also a go effect. The principal room, a magnificent apartment, of weapons in bronze, and iron, and stone, son extends nearly the whole length of the building, being bronze horse-bits, trumpets, and other mat 210 feet long, forty-one feet broad, and forty feet high. speak of warlike service. In the library is a In front of the presses which contain the books, is a lection of ancient Irish manuscripts. series of busts of eminent men both ancient and modern. From the Academy the visitor should, in The books in this room are above 110,000. In a room complete his examination of Irish antiquities beyond is another very valuable collection called the to the house of the Royal Dublin Society i Fagel Library, from having been purchased of a Dutch Street. The building itself will repay the vi family of that name - it consists of about 18,000 a very handsome one ; originally it was the volumes. The celebrated collection of manuscripts of the Duke of Leinster, from whom it was pur is contained in the upper story: admission to it is the Society in 1815, for the sum of £20,0 only granted for a special purpose. Corresponding objects of the Dublin Society, as stated in in size and style with the chapel is the theatre, which Incorporation, are much more various than th is worth visiting for the portraits it contains of several Irish Academy. It was founded in 1731

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