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picturesque. Malahide is a straggling fishing village ; struction of the new harbour, was promising to become and an Irish fishing village is always “a thing to a town of some importance, into Kingstown. The new admire at.” There will be found a decent inn; and town has left old Dunleary, however, rather on one the oysters have a wide-spread celebrity. About two side. Kingstown Harbour is the chief feature here: or three miles distant is the old town of Swords, i it was commenced in 1817, when the failure of that at famous in Irish chronicles, and worth visiting for its · Howth became palpable. Rennie was employed to antiquities. These are; first, extensive remains of the make the designs and superintend the construction. It archiepiscopal palace : next, the vestiges of the chapel is formed by two immense piers, which incline towards of a monastery founded here in 512 by that famous each other so as to leave an opening seaward of 850 saint, holy St. Columb, and of which the scarce less feet. The western pier is 4950 feet long,—the eastern, famous St. Finian was the first abbot: and, finally, 3500; they enclose an area of 251 acres, being one there is a round tower—one of the rudest of those of the largest artificial harbours in the kingdom. Fristrange structures : it is seventy-two feet high, and gates and Indiamen of 800 tons burden can ride in fourteen feet in diameter. The old town of Swords is the harbour; at the wharfs vessels of heavy tonnage a very poor place-to Saxon eyes it seems a wretched can discharge their cargoes at any state of the tide : one; but then it is none the less picturesque, About but the barbour is not found to be as useful as was three miles north of Swords, at the village of Lusk, anticipated. The entrance is so wide and so ill-placed, is another round tower.
that during easterly gales vessels within the harbour The Dublin and Kingstown Railway will enable are unable to keep their anchorage: it should be visitors to see the south-eastern suburbs of Dublin observed, however, that it was part of the original plan with great facility, This line skirts the southern to have the entrance protected by a breakwater. Some coast of Dublin Bay, and as it affords a series of £700,000 are said to have been expended in the conbeautiful sea-views, it is in much favour for short struction of the harbour ; but the expenditure has pleasure runs. It is only fair to say that the Company extended over thirty years. The eastern pier forms do their best to make these excursions agreeable. The an admirable parade, and affords the residents and second-class carriages are comfortably cushioned; and visitors abundant amusement: the seaward prospect is a commodious kind of open carriage is provided for a noble one; the view of the bay is very fine; the those who wish to view the scenery; the seats in these harbour has generally a goodly number of vessels of are cushioned, and there is a covering overhead. It all sizes, including a great many yachts, whose evoluis so seldom that Railway Companies do anything to tions are always attractive; and it is the place where render travelling agreeable to any other than first-class | the packets embark and disembark their passengers. passengers, that it ought to be noticed when it does At the end of the east pier is a lighthouse, which, at happen. There is another excellent thing on this line: night, displays a revolving light. The railway-station, the Company have constructed near several of the a rather stately building, is close against the harbour. stations very convenient bathing-places; and second- On summer evenings the band of one of the regiments class tickets are granted every morning throughout the stationed at Dublin generally adds to the liveliness of summer, which entitle the holders to ride from Dublin the scene by performing popular airs on the strand. to any station they please, have a sea-bath, and return Of the numerous villas and terraces seen bordering the for eight-pence. Bathing places are also provided at strand, or scattered over the heights inland, it is needsome distance from the others, for the use of ladies, less to speak. The whole distance from Dublin is at the same charges. The bathing-tickets later in the thickly sprinkled with them, and some are of considerday are charged a somewhat higher price.
able pretensions. A ride of a mile and three quarters On the way to Kingstown there are several stations, on the Atmospheric Railway will bring the tourist to but we cannot stay at either; Kingstown will occupy Dalkey. There is not much to be seen in the village as much time as we have to spare. The town itself is itself; but it has some historic celebrity, and the vicinity nought: it is a new town, a good deal frequented as is attractive. In early times this was an important a watering-place by the Dublin citizens; and the neighbourhood; and in order to defend it, and afford houses are what might, in such a place, be expected. | protection to the shipping, there were seven castles Kingstown is not the original name of the place. It built along the coast. Three of these castles (or was formerly called Dunleary, from there having been rather forts) are yet in part remaining at Dalkey, one here, say the topographers, a dun, or fort, in which at Bullock, and another at Monkstown). There are also dwelt Leary, king of Ireland, about the middle of the at Dalkey some remains of an old church. Just off fifth century. Be that as it may, here was a little Dalkey Point is a little island, of about twenty-five acres dirty village called Dunleary, with a small harbour, at area, which is separated from the mainland by a sound which George IV. landed on bis visit to Ireland in 1821. about 300 yards wide. Dalkey Island was formerly the The visit half-crazed the good people of Ireland ; and scene of an annual assemblage of Dublin citizens,among other of the methods of eternizing their grati- sometimes to the number of 20,000,- whose proceedtude which they adopted, was that of erecting an ings were recorded in a 'Dalkey Gazette,' issued on obelisk on the spot where he stept ashore, and changing the occasion, and are still referred to at due length in the name of the place, which, on account of the con- the local histories and guide-books. The object of the meeting was to elect and crown a sovereign of the of Dublin whither we might conduct the reader, but we
The King of Dalkey and Emperor of the leave them unvisited, for we have stayed already so Muglins was assisted in the government of his island long as to leave but too little time for a sufficient exaby a prime minister, an archbishop of Dalkey, an mination of the beauties of Wicklow. We shall pass admiral, a general, and other ministers and officers through the more celebrated parts of this beautiful ecclesiastical, civil, and military. The election was county without much regard to the order of the route, conducted with due solemnity, and after the coronation taking the several spots as we can most readily reach a sermon was preached by the archbishop; the whole them in a careless ramble at a little distance from the affair was carried through with much relish. It appears coast to Arklow, and thence back by the mountains to have been some such an annual revel of the cockneys which occupy the middle of the county. As there is of Dublin as was indulged in by the cockneys of no railway in Wicklow, it may not be amiss to say a London in the election of their 'Mayor of Garratt;' few words as to the means of conveyance. Of course the chief difference being that while the Londoners the best way to see a district such as this is to walk were content with a magistrate, the Dalkeians, loftier over it: much of it cannot be well seen in any other in their notions, would have a monarch. But their way. Along the main lines of road.there are a good ambition was their ruin. The government of the many coaches and vans, which run at very low fares, King of the other island became alarmed at the increase and are serviceable even to the pedestrian, in enabling of their number, and suppressed the meeting. The bim to get over some of those uninteresting or dreary King of Dalkey was compelled to abdicate, and the spaces which intervene between the more important King of England reigned alone. Dalkey Island was points. All, or nearly all, the Wicklow and Wexford taken possession of by the British sovereign, and is conveyances go from one office in Dublin, and it will still occupied by a British garrison,--two or three of be well to call at this office, which is situated in Harry the coast-guard,-—who are its only inhabitants.
Street, to learn the lines of route, and the times, which Now let us climb this hill: it gave us a pleasant are frequently being altered. By a little contrivance, greeting as we came over the sea, and it seems as though and without much expense, these vehicles will enable it would afford us a cheerful welcome on the summit. any one whose time is limited to two or three days, to We will not linger by the way. From the new brick- pass through much of the most beautiful scenery, and and-mortar work about the lower slopes we gladly to visit the most famous spots. It will only be necesescape. The name of yonder village has so Italian a sary to fix on two or three stations where the coaches sound, raises such visions of soft blue skies, and Arca- pass, and from them there will be little difficulty in dian scenes, recalls such poetic fancies, that we must reaching the places which are out of the coach-road, avoid it, lest the reality be too discordant. Let Sorento either by walking or hiring a car. Cars are kept at be unseen. Nor will we now go to look after the quarries almost every inn of any size (and there is sufficient which supplied the granite for the construction of yon traffic to support an inn in almost all the larger roadharbour. Killiney Hill is worth ascending. We are not side villages); they are let at sixpence or eightpence five hundred feet above the sea, but we have a prospect a mile, and there are few or no turnpikes. Indeed the that might lead us to fancy we were a thousand. How usual way of seeing Wicklow is by hiring cars from beautiful from this height is that glorious Dublin Bay! place to place; and there is only the objection to it, Howth stands out majestically in the serene ocean, and that a great deal is of necessity overlooked which is from it the varying coast sweeps round in a splendid most characteristic of the country and the inhabitants. curve to the base of the hill on which we are standing. Streams of silver dash across the dark blue water as
BRAY AND TIIE DARGLE. the light breeze plays gently over it. White sails glitter in the sunshine ; one and another dark hull moves Bray must be our starting-point. It is situated on the steadily along, leaving behind it a stream of yellow Bray river, which here divides the counties of Dublin smoke. And there a tall-masted emigrant ship is and Wicklow, and, as it stands on both sides of the working slowly out of the Bay, bearing with it how river, it belongs in part to each county; but Bray many hopes and fears—blighted prospects, young ima- proper belongs to Wicklow. It is about thirteen miles ginations ! Let us look another way. Here is a view from Dublin. Bray, as the centre of a beautiful district, of soft smiling valleys, and wooded slopes, of rich is a place of great resort; and being but a short disdemesnes, handsome villas, cultivated fields, enough to tance from the sea, it is also much frequented as a charm away gloomy fancies. And here again, if we watering-place. The town itself is a long straggling turn northwards, is another beauteous scene over this one, consisting of a principal street, and several lesser fine Killiney Bay away to Bray Point; inland across streets and fragments of streets diverging from it or a country bounded by the Mountains of Wicklow-a connected with it--for it is not very easy to explain tract we ought long ere this to have been rambling over. the arrangement of an Irish country-town, even when
like this it belongs to the more respectable class. The
town is built on very irregular ground, the houses are WICKLOW.
anything but uniform, the church stands on a lofty There are many other spots in the immediate vicinity bank, lifting its tower high above the rest of the build
Let us away.
ings, hence its general appearance from a little distance leafy screen and lights up the depths of the hollow, is picturesque: as you ascend the river towards it, and glancing hither and thither from rock to rock, just by it is seen backed by the Sugar-loaf Mountains, it is a touch gilding one mossy fragment and casting its eminently so. Bray has little trade, less manufacture, neighbour into a deeper shadow, making the waterand just the shadow of a fishery: but one way and breaks to glitter as with countless gems,—and in a another it is tolerably prosperous. It has a population word producing in that sunny spot a picture such as a of 3000 souls. In order to keep the visitors in good fairy might have wrought, who, having been looking at temper, the natives curb their own inclinations and keep one of Creswick's paintings, was tempted to try how it comparatively clean; and that there may be no cause such another would appear if executed with Nature's of complaint left, it possesses one of the best hotels in own materials. A good footway is carried through all Ireland.
the glen along the summit of the north bank, which Bray is the centre of one of the richest and loveliest enables you to see it very conveniently; and at all the districts on this side of the island. The natural features places where there are scenes of superior beauty or of the county too are not, as in too many other parts, grandeur a seat is placed, an opening is cut, or some disfigured by the frequent signs of the deep misery of other such silent intimation given. From some of those who dwell among them. It is as fair, and in these stations the appearance of the glen is of exceedappearance nearly as flourishing, as many of the happiest ing beauty; from some, too, there is much of a gloomy spots in England. All around are the mansions and grandeur,—but the general character of the glen is that demesnes of the nobility and gentry of the county, and of surpassing loveliness. One of these resting-places, the villas of the wealthier merchants and professional where the bank is of the greatest height and steepness, men of the metropolis. Many of these are celebrated is known as Lover's Leap; a name it is said to have on account of their owners, and many on their own received from :but we made a sort of promise not account. Nothing can well be more delightful than to be repeating these legends, and our fair readers will some of them, and it is a very pleasant way of spending readily imagine for themselves the remainder of this a day to ride or stroll from one to another under good one; in which there are, of course, a gentle lady and a guidance. Among the more famous of them is Kil- tender youth, love that does not run smooth, and a ruddery—a noble mansion, belonging to the Earl of good deal more that we have forgotten, but which they Meath, standing within a demesne of surpassing beauty. will easily recall or invent. We make no doubt that Kilruddery is a modern mansion of the Elizabethan their versions will be quite as veritable as those written style: not far off is Hollybrook, a mansion of the in the books, or told by the guides,-no, not by the Elizabethan age. Adjoining Kilruddery is the demesne guides, for there is no guide attached to the place, and of Bray Head, which is also worth visiting. The fine stranger guides are not permitted to enter the Dargle; promontory of Bray Head, being some 800 feet above a very excellent arrangement, by the way, for you are the sea, affords a splendid sea view, as well as one of thus not merely left to wander about at will, but saved much richness inland. On the other side are St. Valerie, from the intrusion of some nonsensical piece of informathe seat of Sir Philip Crompton, one of the most charm- tion, or silly story, when you would be hearkening only ing places in Great Britain ; Old Connaught, where the to the voice of the woods and the waters, and the wisest and wittiest of the present generation have song of the birds ;- but we are running off from the delighted to assemble around the hospitable board of subject with which we commenced, and so we return Lord Plunkett ; and very many others which-- are they to the Lover's Leap. And now we are there again, not written in the Guide-books of the county? If the just let us beg you to notice what a rich and charming stranger have time and inclination, he may visit some view there is along the glen. The other principal one or other of them, and he will generally find that station is known as Rock View, and it has the advanthe more beautiful grounds are freely opened to him. tage of not only yielding a beautiful prospect of the
The lion of all this district is the Dargle, a spot to which Dargle, but also of the country above and beyond it.
ite to Mr. Grattan. Admission is where the bright sun sends down its rays through the always granted upon application at the lodges, at either
end. It is best seen by entering at the southern end,- after a course of some two or three miles from its source the upward course of the stream presents bolder and more in Crocken Pond, here throws itself over a rocky steep varied features, and the distant prospects are finer. In some three hundred feet high. After storms, or when any case it is better to go quite through the Dargle, there is much water in the river, it must form a noble than, as is often done, to go part of the way and return : cataract ; but when we saw it there was very little some choice views are sure to be lost if either end be water, and its grandeur was much diminished. The left unseen.
Douce Mountain, which is the highest of the mountains Powerscourt is the most important seat in this part in this neighbourhood, being 2384 feet above the sea, of the county: it can only be seen upon procuring an and which forms so conspicuous and imposing an object order from the agent of Viscount Powerscourt. It is a in the surrounding scenery, is often ascended from this large but rather plain building; the interior has some waterfall. very splendid apartments. The demesne is of great Tinnahinch, Mr. Grattan's seat, is the mansion which extent, of most varied character and extreme beauty.was purchased for £50,000 by the Irish Parliament, and The territory of Powerscourt extends over 26,000 acres. presented to the celebrated statesman Henry Grattan, That part of it called the Deer Park, lying some miles (the father of the present proprietor), “ as a testimony," south of the mansion, contains some very grand scenery, to borrow the words of the vote, "of the national graand is much visited. In it is a very celebrated water- titude for great national services.” It is a plain sulfall, formed by the Dargle (or, as it is called by the stantial mansion, but delightfully situated, and the natives in its upper course, the Glenisloreane), which, estate is a very fine one. There are a couple of other demesnes situated on the Dargle that are permitted to worth stepping aside to see. The situation is very be seen, and are a good deal visited-Charlville, the beautiful, and the views of the village are very picseat of the Earl of Rathdown, and Bushy Park. turesque and pleasing, as well as those from it.
Moreover, it wears an aspect of comfort that is quite
refreshing, after becoming inured to the almost total GLEN OF THE DOWNS; Devil's Glen.
want of it that is so frequently in these Wicklow vilAgain renewing our journey southwards from the lages. Delgany is, we believe, a good deal resorted to Dargle, we soon reach the village of Kilmacanoge-a as a summer abode--which of course to some extent collection of poor and slovenly cabins, with a very large explains its neatness of appearance; but it is more and showy new Union-louse. Thence we pass the base satisfactorily explained when you are told that there of the isolated conical mountain called the Sugar Loaf. have been some generations of good and considerate This mountain, which is 1651 feet above the sea, has resident landlords. received the epithet of Great, to distinguish it from the The next village on the road, Newtown-MountLittle Sugar Loaf, 1120 feet high, which rises on the Kennedy, is the centre of some much-admired scenery. borders of Kilruddery, some miles to the north of its The places which are usually visited, are the demesnes greater namesake. Though neither of the mountains of Altadore and Glendaragh on the west, and Mount is much like a sugar-loaf (as sugar-loaves are made Kennedy and Woodstock on the east. There is no now-a-days), they are, as seen from some points, singu- doubt much that will amply repay the leisurely visitor; larly like each other. The Great Sugar Loaf is a con- but we must not linger among them. Newtown village spicuous object over a wide range of country, from is a long and populous, but by no means atiractive, standing, as we said, quite isolated; and hence, also, place, and there is a sad array of mendicants waiting it commands a wide and splendid prospect from the about ready to fasten on the stranger, or to surround summit.
the doors of the coaches which stop there. A little further and we enter another of the more Ashford Inn, or the Inn at Newrath Bridge, might famous of the many beautiful glens which distinguish very well be taken as the centre from which to make this county. The Glen of the Downs is an opening two or three excursions, and also to enjoy a little fishbetween two mountains of a very grand and romantic ing. The chief attraction here is the Devil's Glen,character. The ravine is a mile and a half long, -a the great rival of the Dargle and the Glen of the Downs. little streamlet brawls along the midst; the mountain Like the former, it is a long narrow pass, or rather a sides rise abruptly, sometimes to a height of five or six deep cleft, formed, as it would seem, by the parting hundred feet, the space between them varying from one asunder of the living rock. But the Devil's Glen is hundred to a hundred and fifty feet. The long moun- larger than the Dargle, and more stern and sombre in tain ridge on the right is called the Down Mountain, character. This, indeed, is what characterizes it, and whence the glen has received the name. Beautiful as the preference will be given either to it or to the this glen is, it must once have been very much finer. Dargle according as the more strictly beautiful or the A very good but formal coach-road has been carried sterner aspects of Nature are most in unison with the along the bottom; and the hill-sides have been in parts taste and the feelings. The Glen of the Downs is of disfigured by stiff regular plantations. In places, how quite another character, and cannot be properly comever, the natural woods, or some that have assumed the pared with either. Along the narrow bottom of the character of natural woods, prevail, and, climbing about glen the river Vartry forces its way around and over the rugged crags and slopes, produce a rich effect. The the massy fragments of rock that fill the channel, and finest views of the Glen of the Downs from the road rushes sparkling and foaming along as if impatient of are in a northward direction, when the opening is filled the hindrances to its progress. The sides of the glen by the peak of the Sugar Loaf Mountain.
rise up rugged and precipitous. On the one hand is a But the glen should also be seen from above. At the luxuriant hanging wood; the other is bare, but the southern end of the left bank is Belle Vue, the seat of more pleasing from the contrast of its gray crags to the P. Latouche, Esq., of whose demesne that side of the verdure opposite. At the end of the glen is a noble glen and the heights above form a part. Admission is waterfall—the Vartry pouring over the black rock in readily granted to the grounds. From them there is a one sheet, and falling at once a hundred feet into the splendid view along the glen and over the country dark pool below. The Vartry has at all times a beyond. When the sun is sinking below the hills, and much larger volume of water than the Dargle, and the all the lower parts of the ravine are in the deepest fall is always a very striking one-none the less so shade, while the slanting rays are gilding the summits, from the absence of foliage; when the river is in flood and over a rich expanse, broken and bounded by the it is said to be exceedingly grand. The glen of the peaks of numerous mountains, the lengthening shadows Dargle is wanting in this feature : and Powerscourt are slowly stretching, and a thin hazy vapour is creen. Waterfall, though so much loftier, is certainly not coming up the hollows, the whole scene puts on an air of parable with this in grandeur. The views from the grandeur and of beauty whose charm is irresistible. banks above the Devil's Glen are very fine,—but the
The village that is seen a little way out of the road | Dargle is finer. on the left after quitting the glen, is Delgany. It is There is another very pleasing glen in this neigh