picturesque. Malahide is a straggling fishing village; and an Irish fishing village is always "a thing to admire at." There will be found a decent inn; and the oysters have a wide-spread celebrity. About two or three miles distant is the old town of Swords, famous in Irish chronicles, and worth visiting for its antiquities. These are; first, extensive remains of the archiepiscopal palace: next, the vestiges of the chapel of a monastery founded here in 512 by that famous saint, holy St. Columb, and of which the scarce less famous St. Finian was the first abbot: and, finally, there is a round tower-one of the rudest of those strange structures: it is seventy-two feet high, and fourteen feet in diameter. The old town of Swords is a very poor place-to Saxon eyes it seems a wretched one; but then it is none the less picturesque. About three miles north of Swords, at the village of Lusk, is another round tower.

The Dublin and Kingstown Railway will enable visitors to see the south-eastern suburbs of Dublin with great facility. This line skirts the southern coast of Dublin Bay, and as it affords a series of beautiful sea-views, it is in much favour for short pleasure runs. It is only fair to say that the Company do their best to make these excursions agreeable. The second-class carriages are comfortably cushioned; and a commodious kind of open carriage is provided for those who wish to view the scenery; the seats in these are cushioned, and there is a covering overhead. It is so seldom that Railway Companies do anything to render travelling agreeable to any other than first-class passengers, that it ought to be noticed when it does happen. There is another excellent thing on this line: the Company have constructed near several of the stations very convenient bathing-places; and secondclass tickets are granted every morning throughout the summer, which entitle the holders to ride from Dublin to any station they please, have a sea-bath, and return for eight-pence. Bathing places are also provided at some distance from the others, for the use of ladies, at the same charges. The bathing-tickets later in the day are charged a somewhat higher price.

On the way to Kingstown there are several stations, but we cannot stay at either; Kingstown will occupy as much time as we have to spare. The town itself is nought it is a new town, a good deal frequented as a watering-place by the Dublin citizens; and the houses are what might, in such a place, be expected. Kingstown is not the original name of the place. It was formerly called Dunleary, from there having been here, say the topographers, a dun, or fort, in which dwelt Leary, king of Ireland, about the middle of the fifth century. Be that as it may, here was a little dirty village called Dunleary, with a small harbour, at which George IV. landed on his visit to Ireland in 1821. The visit half-crazed the good people of Ireland; and among other of the methods of eternizing their gratitude which they adopted, was that of erecting an obelisk on the spot where he stept ashore, and changing the name of the place, which, on account of the con

struction of the new harbour, was promising to become. a town of some importance, into Kingstown. The new town has left old Dunleary, however, rather on one side. Kingstown Harbour is the chief feature here: it was commenced in 1817, when the failure of that at Howth became palpable. Rennie was employed to make the designs and superintend the construction. It is formed by two immense piers, which incline towards each other so as to leave an opening seaward of 850 feet. The western pier is 4950 feet long,-the eastern, 3500; they enclose an area of 251 acres, being one of the largest artificial harbours in the kingdom. Frigates and Indiamen of 800 tons burden can ride in the harbour; at the wharfs vessels of heavy tonnage can discharge their cargoes at any state of the tide: but the harbour is not found to be as useful as was anticipated. The entrance is so wide and so ill-placed, that during easterly gales vessels within the harbour are unable to keep their anchorage: it should be observed, however, that it was part of the original plan to have the entrance protected by a breakwater. Some £700,000 are said to have been expended in the construction of the harbour; but the expenditure has extended over thirty years. The eastern pier forms an admirable parade, and affords the residents and visitors abundant amusement: the seaward prospect is a noble one; the view of the bay is very fine; the harbour has generally a goodly number of vessels of all sizes, including a great many yachts, whose evolutions are always attractive; and it is the place where the packets embark and disembark their passengers. At the end of the east pier is a lighthouse, which, at night, displays a revolving light. The railway-station, a rather stately building, is close against the harbour. On summer evenings the band of one of the regiments stationed at Dublin generally adds to the liveliness of the scene by performing popular airs on the strand. Of the numerous villas and terraces seen bordering the strand, or scattered over the heights inland, it is needless to speak. The whole distance from Dublin is thickly sprinkled with them, and some are of considerable pretensions. A ride of a mile and three quarters on the Atmospheric Railway will bring the tourist to Dalkey. There is not much to be seen in the village itself; but it has some historic celebrity, and the vicinity is attractive. In early times this was an important neighbourhood; and in order to defend it, and afford protection to the shipping, there were seven castles built along the coast. Three of these castles (or rather forts) are yet in part remaining at Dalkey, one at Bullock, and another at Monkstown. There are also at Dalkey some remains of an old church. Just off Dalkey Point is a little island, of about twenty-five acres area, which is separated from the mainland by a sound about 300 yards wide. Dalkey Island was formerly the scene of an annual assemblage of Dublin citizens,— sometimes to the number of 20,000,-whose proceedings were recorded in a 'Dalkey Gazette,' issued on the occasion, and are still referred to at due length in the local histories and guide-books. The object of the

meeting was to elect and crown a sovereign of the island. The King of Dalkey and Emperor of the Muglins was assisted in the government of his island by a prime minister, an archbishop of Dalkey, an admiral, a general, and other ministers and officers ecclesiastical, civil, and military. The election was conducted with due solemnity, and after the coronation a sermon was preached by the archbishop; the whole affair was carried through with much relish. It appears to have been some such an annual revel of the cockneys of Dublin as was indulged in by the cockneys of London in the election of their 'Mayor of Garratt;' the chief difference being that while the Londoners were content with a magistrate, the Dalkeians, loftier in their notions, would have a monarch. But their ambition was their ruin. The government of the King of the other island became alarmed at the increase of their number, and suppressed the meeting. The King of Dalkey was compelled to abdicate, and the King of England reigned alone. Dalkey Island was taken possession of by the British sovereign, and is still occupied by a British garrison,--two or three of the coast-guard,-who are its only inhabitants.

Now let us climb this hill: it gave us a pleasant greeting as we came over the sea, and it seems as though it would afford us a cheerful welcome on the summit. We will not linger by the way. From the new brickand-mortar work about the lower slopes we gladly escape. The name of yonder village has so Italian a sound, raises such visions of soft blue skies, and Arcadian scenes, recalls such poetic fancies, that we must avoid it, lest the reality be too discordant. Let Sorento be unseen. Nor will we now go to look after the quarries which supplied the granite for the construction of yon harbour. Killiney Hill is worth ascending. We are not five hundred feet above the sea, but we have a prospect that might lead us to fancy we were a thousand. How beautiful from this height is that glorious Dublin Bay! Howth stands out majestically in the serene ocean, and from it the varying coast sweeps round in a splendid curve to the base of the hill on which we are standing. Streams of silver dash across the dark blue water as the light breeze plays gently over it. White sails glitter in the sunshine; one and another dark hull moves steadily along, leaving behind it a stream of yellow smoke. And there a tall-masted emigrant ship is working slowly out of the Bay, bearing with it how many hopes and fears-blighted prospects, young imaginations! Let us look another way. Here is a view of soft smiling valleys, and wooded slopes, of rich demesnes, handsome villas, cultivated fields, enough to charm away gloomy fancies. And here again, if we turn northwards, is another beauteous scene over this fine Killiney Bay away to Bray Point; inland across a country bounded by the Mountains of Wicklow-a tract we ought long ere this to have been rambling over. Let us away.

WICKLOW.

of Dublin whither we might conduct the reader, but we leave them unvisited, for we have stayed already so long as to leave but too little time for a sufficient examination of the beauties of Wicklow. We shall pass through the more celebrated parts of this beautiful county without much regard to the order of the route, taking the several spots as we can most readily reach them in a careless ramble at a little distance from the coast to Arklow, and thence back by the mountains which occupy the middle of the county. As there is no railway in Wicklow, it may not be amiss to say a few words as to the means of conveyance. Of course the best way to see a district such as this is to walk over it much of it cannot be well seen in any other way. Along the main lines of road.there are a good many coaches and vans, which run at very low fares, and are serviceable even to the pedestrian, in enabling him to get over some of those uninteresting or dreary spaces which intervene between the more important points. All, or nearly all, the Wicklow and Wexford conveyances go from one office in Dublin, and it will be well to call at this office, which is situated in Harry Street, to learn the lines of route, and the times, which are frequently being altered. By a little contrivance, and without much expense, these vehicles will enable any one whose time is limited to two or three days, to pass through much of the most beautiful scenery, and to visit the most famous spots. It will only be necessary to fix on two or three stations where the coaches pass, and from them there will be little difficulty in reaching the places which are out of the coach-road, either by walking or hiring a car. Cars are kept at almost every inn of any size (and there is sufficient traffic to support an inn in almost all the larger roadside villages); they are let at sixpence or eightpence a mile, and there are few or no turnpikes. Indeed the usual way of seeing Wicklow is by hiring cars from place to place; and there is only the objection to it, that a great deal is of necessity overlooked which is most characteristic of the country and the inhabitants.

BRAY AND THE DARGLE.

is picturesque as you ascend the river towards it, and it is seen backed by the Sugar-loaf Mountains, it is eminently so. Bray has little trade, less manufacture, and just the shadow of a fishery: but one way and another it is tolerably prosperous. It has a population of 3000 souls. In order to keep the visitors in good temper, the natives curb their own inclinations and keep it comparatively clean; and that there may be no cause of complaint left, it possesses one of the best hotels in all Ireland.

Bray is the centre of one of the richest and loveliest districts on this side of the island. The natural features of the county too are not, as in too many other parts, disfigured by the frequent signs of the deep misery of those who dwell among them. It is as fair, and in appearance nearly as flourishing, as many of the happiest spots in England. All around are the mansions and demesnes of the nobility and gentry of the county, and the villas of the wealthier merchants and professional men of the metropolis. Many of these are celebrated on account of their owners, and many on their own account. Nothing can well be more delightful than some of them, and it is a very pleasant way of spending a day to ride or stroll from one to another under good guidance. Among the more famous of them is Kilruddery a noble mansion, belonging to the Earl of Meath, standing within a demesne of surpassing beauty. Kilruddery is a modern mansion of the Elizabethan style not far off is Hollybrook, a mansion of the Elizabethan age. Adjoining Kilruddery is the demesne of Bray Head, which is also worth visiting. The fine promontory of Bray Head, being some 800 feet above the sea, affords a splendid sea view, as well as one of much richness inland. On the other side are St. Valerie, the seat of Sir Philip Crompton, one of the most charming places in Great Britain; Old Connaught, where the wisest and wittiest of the present generation have delighted to assemble around the hospitable board of Lord Plunkett; and very many others which- are they not written in the Guide-books of the county? If the stranger have time and inclination, he may visit some one or other of them, and he will generally find that the more beautiful grounds are freely opened to him.

The lion of all this district is the Dargle, a spot to which almost every one who visits Dublin is carried, whatever other spot be left unvisited. The Dargle is only an abbreviation of its proper name, which is the Glen of the Dargle,—it being really a glen of somewhat over a mile in length, through which the river Dargle flows. Nature has indeed been lavish of her favours here. For the whole way the streamlet winds between lofty and precipitous rocks, whose sides are clad with the most luxuriant foliage. In places, the banks ascend to an altitude of above three hundred feet, and with the trees that bend forward from them towards the opposite sides, steep the deep abyss in an intensity of gloom that might well have suggested its native name of the Dark Glen. But then there are broad open dells, where the bright sun sends down its rays through the

glancing hither and thither from rock to rock, just by a touch gilding one mossy fragment and casting its neighbour into a deeper shadow, making the waterbreaks to glitter as with countless gems,—and in a word producing in that sunny spot a picture such as a fairy might have wrought, who, having been looking at one of Creswick's paintings, was tempted to try how such another would appear if executed with Nature's own materials. A good footway is carried through the glen along the summit of the north bank, which enables you to see it very conveniently; and at all the places where there are scenes of superior beauty or grandeur a seat is placed, an opening is cut, or some other such silent intimation given. From some of these stations the appearance of the glen is of exceeding beauty; from some, too, there is much of a gloomy grandeur,—but the general character of the glen is that of surpassing loveliness. One of these resting-places, where the bank is of the greatest height and steepness, is known as Lover's Leap; a name it is said to have received from — but we made a sort of promise not to be repeating these legends, and our fair readers will readily imagine for themselves the remainder of this one; in which there are, of course, a gentle lady and a tender youth, love that does not run smooth, and a good deal more that we have forgotten, but which they will easily recall or invent. We make no doubt that their versions will be quite as veritable as those written in the books, or told by the guides,-no, not by the guides, for there is no guide attached to the place, and stranger guides are not permitted to enter the Dargle; a very excellent arrangement, by the way, for you are thus not merely left to wander about at will, but saved from the intrusion of some nonsensical piece of information, or silly story, when you would be hearkening only to the voice of the woods and the waters, and the song of the birds;-but we are running off from the subject with which we commenced, and so we return to the Lover's Leap. And now we are there again, just let us beg you to notice what a rich and charming view there is along the glen. The other principal station is known as Rock View, and it has the advantage of not only yielding a beautiful prospect of the Dargle, but also of the country above and beyond it. (Cut, No. 5.)

The mansion of Powerscourt, with the beautiful demesne of which it is the centre, forms a conspicuous object in the mid-distance, while the lofty ridge of Kippure closes the prospect. But the Dargle is equally fine if viewed from below. There the stream, foaming along its stony channel, forms the central feature, and with the rocks and trees, with all their sombre shadows and rich colouring for their accompaniments, makes pictures such as poet or painter would in vain attempt to embody.

The Dargle, as has been hinted, is private property and enclosed. The west bank belongs to Lord Powerscourt, the opposite to Mr. Grattan. Admission is always granted upon application at the lodges, at either

end. It is best seen by entering at the southern end, the upward course of the stream presents bolder and more varied features, and the distant prospects are finer. In any case it is better to go quite through the Dargle, than, as is often done, to go part of the way and return: some choice views are sure to be lost if either end be

left unseen.

Powerscourt is the most important seat in this part of the county: it can only be seen upon procuring an order from the agent of Viscount Powerscourt. It is a large but rather plain building; the interior has some very splendid apartments. The demesne is of great extent, of most varied character and extreme beauty. The territory of Powerscourt extends over 26,000 acres. That part of it called the Deer Park, lying some miles south of the mansion, contains some very grand scenery, and is much visited. In it is a very celebrated waterfall, formed by the Dargle (or, as it is called by the natives in its upper course, the Glenisloreane), which,

after a course of some two or three miles from its source in Crocken Pond, here throws itself over a rocky steep some three hundred feet high. After storms, or when there is much water in the river, it must form a noble cataract; but when we saw it there was very little water, and its grandeur was much diminished. The Douce Mountain, which is the highest of the mountains in this neighbourhood, being 2384 feet above the sea, and which forms so conspicuous and imposing an object in the surrounding scenery, is often ascended from this