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is no mystery in the matter. The young O'Neals, the in the exquisite gardens of Ross Island, -lookin sons of Tyrone, wore velvet jerkins and gold lace, and from paths beauteous with every shrub and flowe the father made the "witty godson" of Elizabeth read art has here acclimated or nature strown, upo him some cantos of his translation of Ariosto ; but the mountains on which the mists are gathering, and followers of the earl were unspoiled in their fidelity by ing fast before a gusty wind. Our steersman is any refinements of luxury or knowledge:

tient,—and he has cause. “The boys" pull v “The earl," says Sir John Harrington," began by will through the waves, which now heave 1 debasing his own manner of hard life, comparing him- troubled sea. We have passed in a quarter of ar self to wolves, that fill their bellies sometime, and fast from serene beauty into stern grandeur. How soli as long for it. * * * *

Other pleasant and idle tales now sleeps Innisfallen in her watery bed ; were needless and impertinent, or to describe his fern- looks frowning; the Lake is black, beyond all in table and fern-forms, spread under the stately canopy of able blackness of water-black in its vast depth heaven. His guard, for the most part, were beardless beneath the gloom of the gathering clouds. We boys without shirts; who, in the frost, wade as fami- the friendly shallow of the point on which our b liarly through rivers as water-spaniels. With what last is stranded. charm such a master makes them love him I know not, Now, that we have seen these Lakes under but if he bid come, they come; if go, they do go; if favourable circumstances, and can judge in some d he say do this, they do it."

of their claims to surpassing beauty, let us coi But we are lingering too long amongst the traces of our own impressions with those of two very com old manners, as we lingered, till the sun was setting, but essentially different observers. Inglis, acute, tious, rarely elevated beyond the point of calm satis of the mountains, till it rested on the green glimmer of faction ; Wilson, the most tasteful and discriminating the far-off sea. The grandeur was felt, far off as it of enthusiasts. It is true that we have been only two was, of that iron-bound coast. Coming round with an days, as yet, amongst these wondrous scenes ;—but easy sweep, as the eye of an eagle may do, when we have had rare opportunities of weather-all appli- hanging motionless aloft he but turns his head, our ances at hand--and not an hour lost. We agree to eyes took in all the mighty range of the Reeks, and the utmost extent of admiration with our two autho- rested in awe on Carran-Tual. Wild yet gentle was rities.




the blue aërial haze over the glimpses of the Upper And first Inglis :" Although the lakes of Killar- Lake, where soft and sweet, in a girdle of rocks, seemed ney are three in number, yet they are all contained in to be hanging, now in air and now in water-for all one mountain hollow; and certainly there is not, within was strangely indistinct in the dim confusion-masses the same compass, anything in England presenting of green light, that might be islands with their lovely the same concentration of charms. There is infinitely trees. But suddenly tipt with fire shone out the golden greater variety at Killarney. In form, and in the pinnacles of the Eagle's Nest; and as again they were outline of its mountain boundaries, the lower lake of tamed by cloud-shadow, the glow of Purple Mountain Killarney is decidedly superior to Winandermere: and for a while enchained our vision, and then left it free though the head of Ulleswater presents a bolder out- to feast on the forest of Glena, till, wandering at the line than is anywhere to be found in Killarney, yet capricious will of fancy, it floated in delight over the it is upon this outline alone that the reputation of woods of Mucruss, and long lost among the trembling Ulleswater depends. Elsewhere than at Patterdale, imagery of the water, found lasting repose in the stedthe lake scenery is tame; and the same may be said of fast beauty of the sylvan isle of Innisfallen.” Winandermere, which, towards the lower extremity, is With this passage in our minds we close our second almost devoid of attraction. On the contrary, through- day, with hopes of a bright sky for Mangerton toout the whole chain of lakes, there is a variety at morrow. Killarney ; tameness is nowhere to be found : and I cannot think that the somewhat nearer approach to For two days we have been sequestered on the bank sublimity, which is found at the head of Ulleswater, of the Lower Lake, in the profound quiet of our hotel. can weigh in the balance against the far greater variety The Killarney beggars find no admission here. The in the picturesque and the beautiful, which Killarney only signs of Killarney life are the two patient women affords. It would be unfair to compare the lakes of who sit all day at the hotel-door, offering their knickKillarney, with Winandermere, Keswick, and Ulles- knacks of the arbutus and the bog-oak. It is time we water; for these are spread over a great extent of saw something of the population ; so we will walk to country; whereas, the lakes of Killarney are all con- Mucruss on our way to Mangerton. tained within a smaller circumference than Winander- A pretty road of a mile leads to Killarney. We pass mere: but even if such a comparison were to be the unfinished cathedral, begun, from the design of admitted, Killarney would outvie the English lakes in Pugin, some four or five years ago, and left as it is one charm, in which they are essentially deficient. I through failing means. At a distance on the hill is a mean the exuberance and variety of foliage which noble asylum for pauper lunatics, --- and, somewhat adorns both the banks and the islands of the Killarney nearer, the Union Workhousea large fabric. Within lakes. Such islands as Ronan's Island, Oak Island, this Workhouse all is order and cleanliness. At the time Dinis Island, and Innisfallen, covered with magnificent of our visit to Killarney the Guardians had additional timber and gigantic ever-greens, are nowhere to be buildings for in-door relief,--the whole capable of found amongst the English lakes. I think it will be

I think it will be accommodating 2,800 persons. The Union, it appears, gathered from what I have said, that I accord the pre- is admirably managed; the Guardians have had no ference to Killarney.”

assistance from Government; out-door relief has been Christopher North, in the passage which we are about administered, not to the able-bodied, but in extreme to quote, is more brief than in his previous summing cases of widows and children. And yet, although a up of the characteristics of the English and Scotch stern necessity was driving the able-bodied fast into Lakes; but he is not in the slightest degree less em- the Workhouse, there were causes in operation which phatic when he thus bursts out. He is looking from kept out many even when famine was at their door. Mangerton, whither we shall lead our reader before we The children are the first victims. The parents will part :

not come into the Workhouse with their families till “What a panorama! Our first feeling was one of the last moment. Are they badly fed? Are they cruelly grief that we were not an Irishman. We knew not treated ? Quite the contrary. Discipline, order, reguwhere to fix our gaze. Surrounded by the dazzling larity, cleanliness, deter them from seeking this relief. bewilderment of all that multitudinous magnificence, A witness before the Lords' Committee says, “It is the the eye, as if afraid to grapple with the near glory-dread of cold water being applied to them, and clean for such another day never shone from heaven-sought clothing." elief in the remote distance, and slid along the beauti- Another witness says, that they would infinitely ful river Kenmare, insinuating itself among the recesses prefer privations of food and clothing, and insufficiency



of fuel, in a badly-managed workhouse, to abundance town (village), under an absentee landlord :—"This and regularity in a workhouse like that of Killarney. town consisted of one row of miserable huts, sunk Crouched under a gateway as we passed through the beneath the side of the road, the mud walls crooked street, we saw such a being as poets have imagined-in every direction; some of them opening in wide Spenser in his Hag, Shakspeare in his Sycorax,—but cracks, or zigzag fissures, from top to bottom, as if such a being as never before shocked our eyes-an there had just been an earthquake--all the roofs sunk old woman in whom all semblance of humanity had in various places—thatch off, or overgrown with grass perished. She was there to mutter and beg in her -no chimneys, the smoke making its way through horrible filth and rags : she might have been in the a hole in the roof, or rising in clouds from the top of workhouse. It is useless reasoning about all this. the open door-dunghills before the doors, and green The habits of centuries are not only second nature but standing puddles-squalid children, with scarcely rags nature itself. Gradually, however, will the Union to cover them, gazing at the carriage. ****

As Workhouse eradicate these habits. At Killarney there they drove by, some men and women put their heads are workshops preparing, where labour may be given through the smoke out of the cabins ; pale women, with to the able-bodied. Under a recent Act the Guardians long black or yellow locks—men with countenances and are empowered to provide agricultural instruction for figures bereft of hope and energy." (Cuts 11 to 14.) their young many acres under cultivation, where farm-servants are The famine has made the matter, as far as external being formed who will bring skilled labour to the appearances go, not a bit the worse. The deserted agricultural revolution that must take place in Ireland. cabins that we see in every part of the country tell us Again ; the girls in some of the workhouses, in Galway that evictions are going on. We have seen with our especially, are trained for domestic labours, and fitted own eyes what eviction means. There is a padlock on to become the wives of colonists, by learning all the the frail door of a mud-cabin ;--the ground about is industrial resources of good housewifery. These choked with weeds ;—the potato-crop has failed ;-the Work houses, then, which at first sight strike the tenant can pay no rent;,he is fled, or has perished. traveller in Ireland as indications of misery, are likely This is a short and sad tale; and we jump too hastily to become great instruments of real education. i The to a conclusion if we think that the evil is to be wretched hovel, dark, filthy, damp, and smoky, cannot remedied by banishing the potato, as well as its cultiexist for ever by the side of a well-regulated Union vator. Unquestionably the famine was the result of Work house.

At the entrance of Killarney, as in the almost exclusive potato-cultivation, in the small most Irish towns, there are such hovels. Some have holdings ;-and it is very easy to say that the small been pulled down, and the tenants evicted; but enough holdings should be turned into large farms ;-corn remain to show us how the mass of Irish cottiers have should be grown instead of potatoes ; and the been living, time out of mind. Miss Edgeworth long wretehed cottiers become farm-labourers. The people ago described these dens of wretchedness, in an Irish themselves know better than superficial political econo

inmates; and in some Unions they have Not the slightest change in a quarter of a century


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