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here is especially beautiful; there are waterfalls and very well do, for the mail from Aberystwith and Mathere are rapids. More than a few of the sweetest chynlleth passes through Mallwyd daily, and during the pictures of Welsh scenery which find their way to the summer there is a tourist's coach' besides. The exhibitions, entitled, 'A Welsh Stream,' ' A Quiet country between Mallwyd and Shrewsbury is very Spot,' •Scene in Wales, and such-like titles, which beautiful, but it is of a tamer kind of beauty than that English landscape-painters delight in, have been painted which we have lately been conversant with, and consefrom sketches made here, and in many instances have quently does not do to loiter over. Many of the been painted here. The mountains around are not so villages look very tempting as you whisk through grand, nor so fine in form, as those we have left, but them; many a valley looks right pleasant as you gaze they are pleasing and characteristic. Several places down it from some gentle eminence. But on the whole within a few miles are worth visiting. Dinas Mowddwy, there will be little cause to regret that the ramble did a couple of miles on the Dolgelley road, is a decayed not include this district. The only town which is borough-town of mud cottages, not unpicturesque in passed through on the way is Welshpool—a rather itself, and seated in a very picturesque spot. There is large and evidently flourishing place, with wide clean capital river-scenery here too. If the Afon Dyfi be streets, and a completely English aspect: the Severn ascended for a few miles farther, it will guide the is navigable as high as Welshpool. Near this town is tourist to some remarkable scenery. Such is that of Powis Castle--a pile which has a striking appearance the rocks and craggy heights, and deep hollows, at at a distance, much more so than close at hand. It Llan-y-Mowddwy, and forwards towards the Arran stands in a noble park, in the midst of a fine country, Mowddwy Mountain. Down the Afon Dyfi the tourist and commands very extensive prospects.
We are might extend his walk to the poor but picturesque reminded by the title of this mansion, that this part village of Cemmaes--where, by the way, is a curious of Wales was anciently called Powis, and afterwards old farm-house ; and close by it a noticeable half-timber West Wales, in contradistinction to North and South edifice. The waterfalls about Mallwyd we need not Wales. The old town of Montgomery lies too much direct attention to, because any one who stays there is out of the ordinary route of tourists; and though an sure to stroll over to them.
interesting little place in many respects, and though But we must hasten on. We have left ourselves no seated in a beautiful locality, it has hardly attractions time to conduct the tourist through Montgomeryshire ; sufficient to induce any one to diverge so far from the indeed we fancy he will find it the best way to make main road at the end of a long journey. Mallwyd his last resting-place, and from thence pro- We had intended to look round Shrewsbury, but it ceed direct by coach to Shrewsbury. This he can is now impossible to do so. A pleasanter old town
could hardly be desired to stay at for a day or two. There are also choice walks all around, with historical It has quaint old streets, bearing quaint old names, * associations, to relate which would take us "a full and lined with the quaintest of old houses. There is hour by Shrewsbury clock.” And there is outside the not such a collection of the old-English half-timber town a tall column, erected to commemorate the houses to be found in any other town. Something achievements of the Shropshire hero, Lord Hill; from of what the houses are like may be seen from our cut the summit of which a capital view may be had of the of the market-place: but they abound in every street. town, and of the beautiful country by which it is sur(Cut, No. 18.) The chief building there shown is the rounded. We like Shrewsbury so much, that we Market-house, erected in 1595. There are other cor- should hardly know how to dismiss it with this hurried porate and public buildings worth looking at, both old notice, if it were not that we can direct the visitor to
There are some fine old churches (whose Mr. John Davies's Guide through the Town of Shrewslofty and graceful spires it is quite a comfort to catch bury,' which is almost all that a local guide-book ought sight of, after having for so long a time seen only the to be. The stranger will find in it whatever he can mean and ugly religious buildings in Wales), with wish to see in the old town pointed out and explained admirable monuments, both ancient and modern ; and by a really well-informed guide : and the numerous some rich antique painted-glass windows, together with wood-cuts which it contains will serve as sufficient notes some new ones not unworthy to be placed alongside by which he may at any time recall the forms of the of them—the work of a townsman; and there is a fine principal objects. It is the best local guide-book to and fainous old grammar-school, showing on its boards the architectural antiquities of a town we have seen, a long list of honoured names, with that of Sir Philip except Parker’s ‘Hand-book of Oxford.' Sidney at the head. There are inns, too, in the vicinity; some fine old mansions (and the stranger should We hoped to have been able to devote a brief space visit Whitehall, for a good example of the dwelling to some remarks on the people of Wales, but our limits house of a wealthy but not extravagant commoner of the are so nearly exhausted, that we can only just touch one days of the Virgin Queen—and when visiting it, should point of the subject. It is impossible for the most heedgo round to the back to see a magnificent walnut-tree, less person to visit Wales without being struck by the old as the house, though not mentioned in the books). appearance and character of the inhabitants. The dress
and language are both so different from those of the * The Wyle Cop, Murivance, Pride Hill, Dog Pole, and peasantry of England--and if any attention be given so forth.
to their manners, they will be found so different too
that it is impossible to avoid taking some note of the way desirable that the people of Great Britain shall be Welsh people. The language is what first and chiefly so united. At what a disadvantage every Welshman excites notice. In the guide-books it is commonly is placed who can only speak his own tongue is said that the English tourist will experience little or no at once apparent whenever any one attempts to raise inconvenience from his ignorance of the Welsh tongue. himself above the condition of his birth; and assuredly, , And if he confine himself to the main roads, and Welshmen do not desire to be for ever confined to their address himself almost wholly to inn-keepers and native homes and original condition. In the Welsh lanwaiters, this is quite true ; and many tourists, from guage there is no living literature. The early Welsh doing so, rather hastily conclude that English is pretty writings did probably, as has been said by continental generally understood. But let him depart ever so as well as British authors, exert a great influence on little from the beaten track, and he will at once dis- the literature of Europe. But those works are now only cover that this is a delusion: only a small proportion preserved for the antiquary. Antique romances can of either old or young will he find able to answer him have no active interest with the people of the nineteenth if he address them. The capability of the children to century. There are some translations into Welsh, but speak English is the real test of the progress of the they are of course naught. There are numerous living language. It will be well to notice what a thoroughly writers in the language, but their productions are almost well-informed native of the principality, who has wholly religious or political — when not antiquarian. devoted considerable attention to the subject, says. And the religious and political writings are sectarian and In his recent elaborate work, entitled “Wales, the partisan. There is no living standard literature: and Language, Social Condition, &c., of the People,' Sir what it is to be without that, an Englishman can imagine Thomas Phillips observes :
when he reflects on what his language would be worth “Nearly six centuries have elapsed since the first if Shakspere and all succeeding writers of eminence in Edward crossed the lofty mountains of North Wales, every class of letters were erased from the national which, before him, no king of England had trodden, memory, and their deep soberizing influence lost from and in the citadel of Carnarvon received the submis- the national mind. Is it no misfortune that a large sion of the Welsh people; and more than three centu- portion of our fellow-countrymen should be, by differries have passed away since the country was incor- ence of tongue, prevented from having access to those porated with and made part of the realm of England ; treasures of knowledge and wisdom ? And a similar and although for so long a period English laws have remark applies to every kind of knowledge as well as been enforced, and the use of the Welsh language literature. What information in science, or the arts, discouraged, yet, when the question is now asked, in agriculture, or indeed in anything, can be obtained what
progress has been made in introducing the English in Welsh ?—and what cannot be obtained in English ? language ? the answer may be given from Part II. of Unless he learns English the Welshman cannot elevate the 'Reports of the Education Commissioners,' page 68. himself—nay, cannot maintain himself on a level with In Cardiganshire, 3000 people out of 68,766 speak Englishmen of the same grade in society—it is imposEnglish. The result may be yet more strikingly shown sible he should do so. He may, indeed, if he have by saying that double the number of persons now sufficient energy, learn the language when he has come speak Welsh who spoke in that language in the reign to perceive the need of it; but what a monstrous thing of Elizabeth."
it is that an English subject, living in this island, should This is a great fact: and to our thinking a very have to acquire in after-life the English language as sad one. No people can ever be thoroughly one in he would a foreign one, and consequently only half interest and feeling while they are separated by a dif- acquire it at last. Those who have influence in Wales ference of language : and no man of thoughtful habit should consider these things. will, we imagine, venture to say that it is not in every