discovery. Off the extreme point of the headland lie three small islands, isolated at high water, but connected by a narrow strip of isthmus at low water. On one of these has been built the Mumbles Light House, (Cut, No. 5,) which affords valuable guidance to ships. entering the bay. The western side of Swansea Bay, just described, forms the eastern margin of the peninsula of Gower, which extends thence to Caermarthen Bay, and which is nearly severed into an island by the river and wide æstuary of the Burry. It is an out-of-the-world place, leading no-whither; yet the tourist finds upon it and around it many beautiful spots. A body of Flemings was planted here by Henry V. in 1103; and the descendants of these Flemings have ever since given a peculiar character to the peninsula of Gower. "This race have, in a great measure," says Mr. Cliffe, "preserved their material characteristics throughout a period of nearly seven centuries and a half. They have held aloof from and rarely intermixed with their neighbours the Welsh. Their physical form is different; their costume somewhat peculiar; and their language an English dialect, the prevailing radical of which is Saxon, although abounding with obsolete, somewhat Flemish, words. The Gowerians are generally more cleanly than the Welsh, but perhaps not so much so as the English peasantry; their character is good; they are temperate, and their pursuits are chiefly pastoral; although many, like the inhabitants of the Danish marshes, are sailors, or pass part of their time in deep-sea fishing. The plough and the net may often be seen together." CAERMARTHEN; TENBY; PEMBROKE. Let us now leave the Swansea district, and glance a little farther westward in the principality. There are two very different routes from Swansea to Caermarthen; one by way of the Llanelly railway and Llandeilo; and the other a coach route nearer the coast. The former of these, at the present time, is a curiously mixed mode of travelling. We first avail ourselves of an omnibus from Swansea (at which town these conveyances are numerous, well conducted, and cheap) to Loughor, and thence to the point where the coach road crosses the Llanelly railway. Here is a station-perhaps one of the least aspiring and least magnificent railway-stations in the kingdom; but if it accommodates the sprinkling of passengers who use it, no one has a right to complain. We travel for about a dozen miles along this railway, and are then transferred to a 'bus which conveys us to the Caermarthenshire town of Llandeilo-vawr. This is a very beautiful ride (or walk.) On the east rise the bold heights of the Black Mountains; while, spread out towards the north and west, lies a wide expanse of very lovely country, fertile and studded with pretty Welsh villages, comprising the vale of Towy. Llandeilo-vawr is itself a pretty town; but it is more attractive on account of its vicinity than for anything contained within the town. South-east are the bold fronts of the mountains which we have passed on the road; north-east is the upper part of the vale of Towy, leading towards Llangadock and Llandovery; and westward is the lower part of the same vale, with the castles of Dynevor and Dryslyn, and a succession of beautiful scenery all the way to Caermarthen. Dynevor or Dynas-Vawr Castle was the regal residence of a Welsh prince so far back as the ninth century; and continued so till the Norman Conquest of the principality. The castle was the scene of repeated conflicts between the Welsh and the Normans, until the former were finally subjected to English rule. The remains of the castle comprise a quadrangular area about a hundred feet in length and breadth, and two towers which formerly constituted part of the ponderous outer wall. The modern mansion of Lord Dynevor occupies part of the site of the ancient castle. Carreg Cennin Castle, at the foot of the Black Mountains, is a strongly-wild and picturesque ruin. Golden Grove, on the southern side of the Towy, is the residence of Earl Cawdor. At Abergwilli, within a short distance from Caermarthen, is the episcopal residence of the Bishop of St. David's, situated in the midst of delightful scenes. Dyer, the poet, was a native of this part of Wales; and has attempted to make his pen do justice to the scenes which surrounded him. The second route to Caermarthen, of which we have spoken, goes by way of Loughor, Llanelly, Pembrey, and Kidwelly. Loughor is the English form given to the name of the town and river whose Welsh name is Llwchwyr. The river is very wide just opposite the town; and, until within the last few years, no bridge crossed it below Pont-ar-dulais, some miles higher up; but as Loughor stands in the direct line from Swansea to Llanelly, a timber bridge has recently been built. Near Loughor are some large copper-works; and a ride of a few miles brings us to the coal region of Llanelly. Llanelly was, a few years ago, a place of no importance; but it has become a port of shipment for the coals brought down by the Llanelly railway from the mountain districts. A little beyond Llanelly the road to Caermarthen goes over Pembrey Hill, a steep elevation, from the summit of which a widely-extended view can be obtained. Another few miles bring us to Kidwelly, where is one of the many castles with which this district is spotted; and beyond this a few miles of flat country completes our journey to Caermarthen. Caermarthen (Cut, No. 6) is a well-built and flourishing town. It forms a meeting-point where roads converge from the extreme sea-coast districts of South Wales,Tenby, Pembroke, and Milford on the south-west; Narberth, Haverfordwest, and St. David's on the west; Cardigan and Newcastle Emlyn on the north-west; Lampeter and Aberystwith on the north. There are remains of a castle and two priories at Caermarthen ; and there are associations connected with Steele, who is believed to have written some of his works on the site where the Ivy-Bush Hotel now stands. Caermarthen Bay is wide but not very deep. On the east flows into it the Llwchwyr and the Burry; on the north, the Tawy and the Taff; on the west, some smaller streams. On the east lies the peninsula of Gower, already spoken of; on the north, is a wide stretch of country, the chief part of which is that which is traversed by the Towy up to Caermarthen; but on the west, we find the peninsula or headland on which the pretty town of Tenby is situated. Tenby (Cut, No. 7), has rapidly risen in importance as a watering or pleasure town. Until the beginning of the present century it was a small and insignificant place, living on the means of its once famous castle; but its availability as a watering-place has led to the construction of hotels, marine villas, parades, and all the other appurtenances of such places. From the Castle-hill may be obtained a splendid and extensive view, stretching to the Caermarthenshire Beacons in one direction, and down the Channel to Lundy Island and its lighthouse in another. The town stands on the neck or isthmus of a little peninsula, and has two beaches or sea-shores; a position which has enabled the pleasure visitors to have a double share of the pleasure of seaside rambling. Tenby stands on the margin of the southern part of Pembrokeshire: a part which, bounded by Caermarthen Bay and St. Bride's Bay, is rather thickly studded with Welsh villages. Pembrokeshire is one of the most remarkable counties in Wales, in respect to its population. It is the Cornwall of Wales-not only in occupying the south-west jutting peninsula, but in having been the stronghold of the ancient Britons after the rest of the districts further east had fallen into the hands of the Anglo-Normans. The chief towns in this part of the county are Pembroke, Pater or Pembroke Dock, Milford, and Haverfordwest. Three of these towns lie on the margin of Milford Haven, the grandest natural harbour in Great Britain, and one of the finest in Europe. The lower portion of the Haven runs inland towards the east for almost twelve miles, and then turns towards the north; many parts of it are two miles wide; and the seamen, who know how to value such advantages, count five bays, ten creeks, and thirteen roadsteads within the haven. Milford Haven can be entered without a pilot by day or night, even with contrary winds; and vessels may find sheltering places within it against any and every wind. So safe and advantageous is the harbour, that vast fleets of merchant-ships are sometimes congregated here. It is the fine haven at Milford that gives importance to this part of Wales. Milford itself is now an unimportant place; although there were two circumstances which gave it distinction a few years ago-the dockyard and the packet-station. Towards the close of the last century an Act was obtained for making docks and quays, which for many years were used by the mail packets going to Ireland: and the government soon afterwards established a dock-yard on a small scale; but both the packet-station and the dock-yard have been removed to Pater; and Milford has sunk into insignificance. Milford is on the north side of the haven, about six miles from its mouth; while Pater is on the south side, about two miles from its mouth. This is the establishment which is known as Pembroke Dockyard. It covers no less than eighty acres, and in it some of the largest ships of war have been built. There are twelve slips for ship-building, covered with iron roofs; and many of the other buildings and works, such as those described in PORTSMOUTH (vol. i., p. 214), and DEVONPORT (vol. iv., p. 128), necessary for building men-of-war, but on a somewhat smaller scale. Such an establishment is sure to draw around it a population in which a good deal of public money becomes expended; and thus Pater is gradually rising into importance. Steam communication is kept up between Bristol and Pater. Pembroke is an old-fashioned town, which has hardly yet become accustomed to the bustle of commercial and naval affairs. It stands on a small ridge, which causes it to consist mainly of but one street. Its most attractive feature is the Castle (Cut, No. 8), which occupies a rocky eminence at the head of one of the creeks of Milford Haven. This castle traces back its history to the early Norman times, and was an object of more than one siege in the stormy feudal times. The rock on which the castle stands is nearly surrounded by water, and was formerly protected on the land or town side by a ditch and barbican. The inner ward or court contained the state apartments and the keep, the latter of which still stands, and affords some superb views from its summit. Although Pembroke bears the name of the county, Haverfordwest, situated about a dozen miles further north, is regarded as the county-town, and has the usual corporate and county buildings connected with it. It had once a castle, the keep of which-like the keeps of so many of our castles-has been converted into a county-gaol. original cathedral, of whatever character it may have been, was pulled down in the twelfth century, and the present structure erected in its place. The cathedral is 290 feet long, 124 wide in the nave and aisles, 80 feet wide at the choir; with a transept, a Lady Chapel, and a tower about 127 feet high. The Lady Chapel is in ruins. The nave, which is finely roofed with rich oak, has a row of Norman arches to separate it from the aisles. The cathedral takes rank only among the smallest and least ornate of those which our island possesses; but it is gratifying to learn that, under the auspices of the present accomplished bishop (Connop Thirlwall) judicious restoration of the ruins and defaced portions are in progress. The bishop's palace is a venerable structure, too dilapidated to be inhabited, but full of interest to a student of old buildings. There are other ecclesiastical ruins also near the town. The coast bends round from St. David's Head towards the north-east, where, at a distance of about fifteen miles from St. David's, stands the sea-port town of Fisguard. Those who remember the fierce railway struggles of 1845-6 will not need to be reminded that Fisguard was looked upon by the Great Western Company as a point whence such traffic might be brought within their reach, in opposition to the Holyhead route of the narrow gauge companies; and the South Wales Railway was planned and fostered with this view. As we have already stated, the works of that company have not yet proceeded westward of Swansea ; and until such time (if ever it arrives) as the whole scheme is completed, Fisguard will remain, what it has hitherto been, a place of no importance. The position of Pembrokeshire, which lies north-eastward of Fisguard, contains no place of any note except Newport, at the mouth of the little river Nevern. This owes its prosperity in past times to the castle which stood there; but at present the commercial dealings connected with the neighbouring slate quarries form the chief features in the town's prosperity. Crossing the Teify into Cardiganshire, we find St. David's; CARDIGAN ; LAMPETER; ABERYSTWITH. Cardigan, Newcastle Emlyn, and Lampeter on that Directing our steps westward from the town last river; Aberaeron at the mouth of the Aëron; and named, we approach the sea at St. David's Head- Aberystwith at the mouth of the Ystwith. Cardigan that bold headland which forms the westernmost ex--which is more expressively termed in the Welsh by tremity of Wales. And here, almost washed by the Atlantic, and far away from the busy haunts of men, we find the Cathedral of St. David's. Singular that the seat of a bishopric should be chosen on the verge of the ocean, so far away from the heart of the diocese! However, the Cathedral exists, and it is pleasant to know that the old structure is maintained. The town (or, we believe 'city') of St. David's stands near the southern shore of St. Bride's Bay, around which are many scenes of great beauty. St. David's itself is an utterly unimportant place, which, but for its cathedral, would be scarcely known at all beyond the immediate neighbourhood. St. David, the patron saint of Wales, established a monastery here in the fifth century; and the town became soon afterwards the chief episcopal place in the principality. The the name of Aberteify, on the same principle as Aberaeron and Aberystwith-does not contain much to interest a stranger. It is the county-town, and contains the usual county buildings; but of the ancient castle and priory scarcely any vestiges now remain. A walk of a mile or two out of the town brings us to the ruins of St. Dogmael's priory; and a little farther on in the same direction we come to the æstuary of the Teify, whence many beautiful sea and coast views can be obtained. The Cardiganshire coast contains many small ports which are rising into some commercial importance, although their names are hardly known in England. Aberforth, and New Quay are two of these, where much mineral produce is exported, and where fishing is rather extensively carried on. bran until the tin presents a bright polish; and finally they are packed in boxes, each box containing from 100 to 225 plates, and the plates measuring 13 inches by 10 up to 17 by 13. These processes seem strangely numerous; but most of them are rendered necessary in order to render the surface of the iron scrupulously free from oxide and all other impurities. SWANSEA; ITS BAY, AND ITS ENVIRONS. Such are some of the industrial pursuits which give such a busy aspect to Swansea and its neighbourhood. Let us now leave the work-people, and view this interesting district under another aspect. (Cut, No. 4.) Swansea Bay is one of the most beautiful in South Wales. Its amphitheatric character is very striking, especially when viewed from the Mumbles Head at its south-west extremity. We may consider the eastern extremity of the bay to be formed by the headland near which Porthcawl is situated; but it is more usual to name Aberavon or Port Talbot as the eastern limit, from which spot to the Mumbles, or the western limit, is about ten miles, which may be deemed the width of the bay at its opening. The depth of the bay is about four miles, with an additional small but deep creek close to Swansea town. Into this bay, in the north-east corner, enters the somewhat wide mouth of the river Neath; and at the lowest point, where this river is narrow enough to be crossed by a bridge, stands the town of Neath. In the north-west part of the bay enters the Tawy, which has flowed from the mountains through the beautiful Swansea valley. The whole of the towns surrounding Swansea Bay are gradually becoming absorbed in the vortex of manufactures. Porthcawl was a place scarcely known a few years ago; but a railway has been formed, which springs from the iron and coal works at Duffryn, and winds through the Llynvi valley to Porthcawl, which is becoming a place of shipment. The same may be said of Aberavon or Port Talbot, a little farther up the bay towards Swansea. Aberavon is its old-fashioned Welsh name; Port Talbot is its new-fashioned commercial name. It is a very old and humble village, with a marshy shore in front, and a range of hills behind it; but it stands at the mouth of the little river Avon, and this river flows through the small valley where the gigantic Cwm Avon works are situated. Hence Aberavon became the port of shipment for copper, iron, and tin-plate; and hence the chief proprietor, Mr. Talbot, has done his best to make it a convenient port. A straight trench has been cut through the marshy land from the river to the sea; and this has been so cleverly done that a fine port has been made, capable of admitting ships of large burden. Between Porthcawl and Port Talbot is Margam Park, the residence of Mr. Talbot, and one of the finest estates in South Wales. It was once called Pen-dar, or the oak summit, and consists of a beautiful alternation of wooded heights, and shady hollows. An abbey once existed at this spot; it was built in the early part of the twelfth century for a Cistercian brotherhood, and bore a high name among the abbatial establishments of its time. After the dissolution of the monasteries, part of the abbey was occupied as a dwelling-house until 1782. Nothing now remains except a few fragments of the chapter-house, and the west front of the abbey church, which forms part of the modern church. Margam House is a modern structure of large size, in the Tudor style; and around it are plantations which are said to be enriched by the largest orangery in the world; rich, not only in oranges, but in lemons, citrons, shaddocks, and pomegranates. How long this beautiful spot will continue undefiled by smoke remains to be seen; already the Tai-bach copper-works, at no great distance, are sending forth their clouds of white vapour. The valleys to which Porthcawl and Port Talbot serve as outlets are growing rapidly in commercial importance. About twenty years ago a tramway was formed from Duffryn to Porthcawl, and a small harbour formed to accommodate the vessels which shipped the coal brought down by the tramway; but it is only very recently that iron has been added to the exports. There are now many large establishments in the Llynvi valley-the Maestog Company, the Llynvi Company, the Tondu Company, the Cefyn Company-which send down enormous quantities of iron and coal to Porthcawl. The Avon valley has a still more remarkable establishment, the Cwm Avon works, perhaps the largest in Wales except the Dowlais. They belong to the "Governor and Company of the Copper Miners of England;" or, more strictly, we believe that they actually belong at the present time to the Bank of England, owing to certain financial arrangements between the two companies. They comprise five establishments in one; for there are collieries, iron-works, copper smeltingworks, tin-plate works, and chemical works; they cover an immense area of ground, and give employment to some thousands of persons. A lofty hill at Cwm Avon may be seen from a great distance vomiting forth clouds of smoke and vapour into the air; this is the upper extremity of a system of flues formed up the slope of the hill from the works beneath, constituting, perhaps, the loftiest chimney in the world. Having had occasion to speak of the somewhat neglected state of the dwellings occupied by the miners and workmen in other districts, it is pleasant to read what a competent authority has to say concerning Cwm Avon. Mr. Seymour Tremenheere, the Mining Commissioner, in his last Report to the Government (1850), says, "The Cwm Avon Works are now carried on on behalf of the Bank of England, under the management of Mr. J. Biddulph. Important additions have been made to their schools. Two clergymen have been appointed; one to take the place of the incumbent. Reading-rooms have been formed, accessible to all the workmen. The principal one, near the offices, containing an abundance of well-selected books, papers, and reviews, supplies | the mail-coach road from Merthyr to Neath and Swanbooks, &c., to the others, held in the school-rooms at sea. A railway, called the Vale of Neath Railway, was the remoter parts of the valley. To this is also planned a few years ago; but the South Wales Railway attached a mechanics' institute; and both are shortly is the only one which yet accomodates this town. to be placed in a large building under the same roof. Neath is supposed to have been the Roman Nidum, Useful and attractive lectures are given, and musical and a few Roman coins have been found there. An performances the latter chiefly by young men belong- abbey was built here in the time of Henry I. which ing to the works. Evening schools have also been was one of the most beautiful in South Wales. A opened for young men and young women; the latter castle had been built earlier than this, but of this castle zealously superintended by the ladies of the chief scarcely anything remains, while the ruins of Neath persons in the valley. A more systematic attention Abbey are still majestic and interesting. Industry is has been paid to sanitary measures as regards sewerage, encroaching on the precincts of this venerable pile with taking off all refuse, &c. A penny in the pound is stern determination. There are iron-works, copperstopped from all wages for this purpose. The Com- works, tin-works, and collieries, in its immediate pany's shop (on the truck system) has been given up; vicinity. The Neath iron-works form an extensive advances in cash are made weekly to every work- establishment not only for the smelting and making of man, and the balance paid every month. Several iron, but for the manufacture of machinery; a very good shops were immediately opened by persons from large portion of the smelting and mining machinery of a distance. Excellent accommodation has also been South Wales and of Cornwall has been made here. afforded for holding a market, at which there is a daily Near the abbey also are the copper-works of the attendance of persons who bring their goods from Crown Company and the Mines Royal Company. Aberavon, Neath, and Swansea, and a full market These, with the coal and the tin-plate works, are every Saturday; and the prices of everything were, gradually converting the Vale of Neath (one of the I was informed, precisely the same as at Swansea. It most beautiful in South Wales) into a smoke-covered needs no such example to disprove what is often manufacturing district. alleged as an excuse for a company's shop (and which was so formerly here), that it is necessary as a check upon exorbitant prices. Where between 4,000 and 5,000 persons are collected, earning in good times about £10,000 per month, there can be no fear of a want of sufficient competition for the supply of such a demand." Mr. Tremenheere states that the proprietors of the Maestog and Llynvi works have lately entered upon a similar excellent mode of attending to the comforts of the persons employed by them; and in relation to the copper-works of Messrs. Vivian, he says, "Spacious and handsome school-buildings have been erected close to the works, at a cost of £2,000 or £3,000. They are placed under trained masters and mistresses, and amply supplied with every requisite for good schools. The cottages for their work-people are of the best and most convenient kind in all their arrangements, with gardens both in front and behind, and small paved back-yards. The occupants have the opportunity of hiring a piece of land in adjoining fields for their potatoes. Foot-pavements are laid down between the rows, and the roadways properly made. Water, generally scarce about large works, is to be brought in, either from the town or from a reservoir to be formed in the hills. The number of public-houses is also kept down in their immediate neighbourhood. The cottages already built are only the commencement of an extensive design, which includes the building of a church, and the leaving vacant a large space near the centre of the rows of the cottages, to be laid out ornamentally for the purposes of recreation." A cluster of hills separates the Avon valley from the Neath valley, and when we have passed this cluster, we find ourselves at the town of Neath. The river Neath flows from the Brecknockshire hills, and by its side is A few short miles bring us from the Neath valley to the Swansea valley, where, as we have already said, coal-smoke and cupreous vapour are also doing their work. Swansea is one of the best towns in the principality. It is the centre of commercial transactions of such magnitude, that many wealthy families have congregated in and near it, and these families bring with them the amenities and usages of cultivated society. Swansea is the only town in Wales which can offer a fitting locality for the British Association for the Advancement of Science; and the meeting of this society at Swansea showed how well the inhabitants were prepared to welcome their scientific visitors. The town stands chiefly on the west bank of the Tawy, near the mouth, but it also stretches across to the east side. The best streets run nearly north and south through the town. They extend beyond the limits of the river itself, and follow the curvature of part of the beautiful bay. In the western part of the town is a fine new market-place, and new streets and handsome buildings are springing up rapidly. The remains of the castle are now so surrounded with buildings in the very heart of the town, that they can scarcely be seen; the chief portion is a circular tower, from the summit of which a fine view can be obtained over the bay. Few commercial towns have so admirable a sea-side walk available to the inhabitants, as that which extends from Swansea to Oystermouth and the Mumbles, round the western margin of the bay. The whole line of coast is gently and gracefully curled, and a fine road having been formed throughout the whole distance, every part of the route is made easily available. For those who do not or cannot walk, frequent and very cheap conveyances follow this line of route. Leaving Swansea at its south-west margin, and passing through |
