We had a good opportunity of visiting the far-famed fortress. It is said to be able to contain ten thousand troops, and from its extent, would appear capable of accommodating that number with ease. What engaged our attention most, was a review of the soldiers of the garrison. They are about eight hundred strong, and every one seemed to be "acting on his own hook," as they are said to have done in the late battle. The officers, instead of swords, carried cowhides, about five feet in length, which they applied with earnestness to the men, and indeed, from appearances, they seemed to require it, if they were ever to be changed into soldiers.

The situation of old Callao is still visible under the water, and though an interesting object, becomes a melancholy one, when one thinks of the havoc a few minutes effected. The very foundation seems to have been upturned and shaken to pieces, and the whole submerged by a mighty wave. The wonder is that any one escaped to tell the tale. Two crosses mark the height to which the sea rose. The upper one, one-third of the way to Lima, indicates the extreme distance to which the water flowed; the lower one marks the place whither the Spanish frigate was carried. I very much doubt the truth of either. I can easily conceive that a great wave would be sufficient to carry a large vessel from her moorings half a mile inland, but I cannot imagine how the water should have reached the height of one hundred and fifty feet at least above the level of the sea, and yet permitted two hundred inhabitants of old Callao to have escaped on the walls of a church which are not half that height.

Outside the walls of the fortress arc several large vaults, filled with the dead, in all stages of decay, and on which the vultures were gorging themselves: this was a revolting spectacle. Indeed, it is truly surprising that the higher classes, and those in immediate authority, should not feel the necessity of appearing more civilized in the disposition of their dead. Many are thrown in naked, and covered only with a few inches of sand. Great numbers of skeletons are still seen with pieces of clothing hanging to them. Dogs and vultures in great numbers were every where feeding upon the dead, or standing aloof fairly gorged with their disgusting repast. If any thing is calculated to make a people brutal, and to prevent the inculcation of proper feeling, it is such revolting sights as these,

Callao is said to contain between two and three thousand inhabitants, but this number, from the appearance of the place, seems to be overrated. Several new buildings are going up, which proves, that notwithstanding the times of revolution, they still persist in carrying on improvements. The principal street is about a third of a mile in

length, and is tolerably well paved, with sidewalks. Billiard-signs stare you in the face. This, I presume, may be set down as the great amusement, to which may be added the favourite monté at night. There is no lack of pulperias.

Coaches, or rather omnibusses, run several times a day to Lima. The old accounts of robberies on the road to Lima, are still fresh in the mouths of strangers. In times of revolution it was infested by robbers, but the steps taken by government have effectually put a stop to them.

The 4th of July was duly celebrated. The Falmouth, Captain M'Keever, fired a salute in honour of the day, and the Vincennes was dressed with national flags.

On the road to Lima is Bella Vista; but it is in ruins, and has been so ever since the revolution. It was generally the outpost or battleground of the two parties, and although the soil in the plain which borders the sea is extremely fertile, consisting of decomposed rock, containing the elements of fertility in the greatest abundance, it now appears a neglected waste. Attention to its cultivation and irrigation would make it a perfect garden. On approaching Lima, the gardens and fields are found to be cultivated and well irrigated. Fields of Indian corn are seen, some fully ripe, some half-grown, and others just shooting up,-a novel sight to us. This bears testimony not only to the fineness of the climate, but to the fertility of the soil. The gardens near the city are filled to profusion with fruits of all descriptions.

The road, on its near approach to the city, forms an avenue of about a mile in length. This, in its prosperous days, was the usual evening drive, and afforded a most agreeable one. On each side are gardens filled with orange trees, the fragrance of whose flowers, and the beauty and variety of the fruit, added to its pleasures. It is now going to decay from utter neglect. Its rows of willows, and the streams of running water on each side, though forming its great attraction, will, if suffered to remain without attention, be completely destroyed. No one seems to take interest in the public works. So marked a difference from Chili could not but be observed.

At Lima I was struck with the change that had taken place since my former visit. Every thing now betokens poverty and decay; a sad change from its former splendour and wealth. This appearance was observed not only in the city, but also among the inhabitants. Whole families have been swept off, and their former attendants, or strangers, have become the possessors of their houses and property.

The country has been a scene of commotion and revolution for the

last twenty-five years, of which Lima for a long time was the centre. The fate of Lower Peru being entirely dependent on it, and the fortress of Callao, the alternate possessors have stripped it and its inhabitants. in every way in their power. It may with truth be designated a declining city.

The neglected walls and ruined tenements, the want of stir and life among the people, are sad evidences of this decay. The population is now said to be about forty-five thousand, although in former times it has been supposed to amount to as many as sixty-five or seventy thousand.

The aspect of the city, especially a bird's-eye view from the neighbouring hills, gives to the eye of the stranger the appearance of ruins. There are few buildings that have the look of durability, and no new ones have been put up for the last forty years. The plan of the city combines more advantages than any other that could have been adopted for the locality. The streets are at right angles, and all sufficiently broad. Those which run with the declivity of the ground, northwest and southeast, have water flowing through their middle. They have not, however, a very clean appearance; but this is certainly not to be imputed to the want of the facility of being made so. The uses to which these streams are put, and the numerous buzzards that frequent them, gives the stranger any other idea than that of cleanliness. The buzzards are protected by law, and may be seen fighting for their food in the gutters, regardless of passers; or sitting on the tops of the houses, thirty or forty in a row, watching for more food.

Great attention has been paid to laying out the Alameda, which is on the north side of the city. Its centre is ornamented with a number of fountains; its walks are well shaded on each side with trees; and the running water adds to its freshness: all unite to form a delightful promenade. In the cool of the evening it is much frequented, and its stone seats are occupied by numbers of citizens. This is the best place to get a view of the inhabitants; and notwithstanding their internal commotions, they appear fully to enjoy their cigarittas, which they are constantly smoking. The peculiar dress of the ladies is here seen to the best advantage, and, however fitted it may be to cover intrigue, is not, certainly, adapted to the display of beauty. A more awkward and absurd dress cannot well be conceived. It is by no means indicative of the wearer's rank, for frequently this disguise is ragged and tattered, and assumed under its most forbidding aspect to deceive, or carry on an intrigue, of which it is almost an effectual cloak.

I never could behold these dresses without considering them as an

emblem of the wretched condition of domestic society in this far-famed city.

The saya and manto were originally intended as a retiring, modest dress, to mark reserve, to insure seclusion, and to enable ladies to go abroad without an escort. The general term for the wearers is Tapada, and they were always held sacred from insult. Tapada is likewise applied to a dress which is also frequently seen, viz., a shawl worn over the head, so as to cover the nose, mouth, and forehead. None but the most intimate friend can know the wearers, who frequent the theatres in this disguise. It is to be regretted, that it is now worn for very different purposes from its original intention. Intrigues of all kinds are said to be carried on under it. It enables the wearer to mix in all societies, and to frequent any place of amusement, without being known, and, even if suspected by her husband or relatives, the law of custom would protect her from discovery. In this dress, it is said, a wife will pass her own husband when she may be walking with her lover, and the husband may make love to his wife, without being aware it is she.

The saya is a silk petticoat, with numerous small vertical plaits, containing about thirty yards of silk, and costing fifty or sixty dollars. It is drawn in close at the bottom of the dress, so that the wearer is obliged to make very short steps (ten inches). It is a little elastic, and conforms to the shape, whether natural or artificial, from the waist down. The manto is a kind of cloak, of black silk. It is fastened to the saya at the waist, and brought over the head and shoulders from behind, concealing every thing but one eye, and one hand, in which is usually seen a cross, or whose fingers are well ornamented with jewels. Before the manto is arranged, a French shawl of bright colours is thrown over the shoulders, and brought between the openings of the manto in front, hanging down nearly to the feet. The loose saya is also much worn: this is not contracted at the bottom, and in walking has a great swing from side to side.

The walk of the Lima ladies is graceful and pretty, and they usually have small feet and hands.

The houses are built of sun-burnt brick, cane, and small timber. All those of the better class have small balconies to the second story. Most of the houses are of two stories, and they generally have an archway from the street, secured by a strong portal, leading into an open court. The lower, or ground-floor, is used as storehouses, stables, &c. This peculiar manner of building is intended as a security against the effects of earthquakes. The housetops are a

depository for all kinds of rubbish, and the accumulation of dust is great. The staircase leading to the upper story is generally handsome, and decorated with fresco paintings, which are, however, far below mediocrity. This style of building is well adapted to the climate.

The Portales or Arcades is one of the most attractive places for the stranger. He is there sure at all hours to see more of life in Lima than at any other place. They are built on two sides of the Plaza. The ground-floor is occupied as shops, where all kinds of dry-goods and fancy articles are sold. Between the columns, next the Plaza, are many lace and fringe-workers, &c. &c.; and without these again are sundry cooks, fresco-sellers, &c., who are frying savoury cakes and fish for their customers, particularly in the morning and late in the evening.

The Arcades are about five hundred feet long, well paved with small stones, interlaid with the knuckle-bones of sheep, which produces a kind of mosaic pavement, and makes known the date of its being laid down as 1799. This place for hours every day is the great resort, and one has a full insight to every store, as they are all doors, and consequently quite exposed, to their remotest corner. The second story is occupied as dwellings.

The Palace of the Viceroy occupies the north side of the Plaza. The lower part of it is a row of small shops, principally tinkers and smallware-dealers. On the east side is the Archbishop's Palace and the Cathedral.

The fountain in the centre of the Plaza is a fine piece of work, and was erected, according to the inscription, in 1600, by Don'Garcia Sarmiento Sotomayer, the Viceroy and Captain-General of the kingdom.

"El que bebe de la pila sequenda in Lima,” is the usual saying. "He that drinks of the fountain will not leave Lima."

The Cathedral is a remarkable building, not only from its size, but its ornaments. Most of the decorations are in bad taste, and I should imagine its former riches in the metals and precious stones have contributed chiefly to its celebrity. Certainly those ornaments which are left cannot be much admired.

Its great altar, composed of silver, might as well be of lead, or pewter, for all the show it makes. In a chapel on one side of the building, there is a collection of portraits of the Archbishops. They are good faces, well painted, and all are there but the one who at the breaking out of the revolution, proved faithful to his sovereign and the Spanish cause. They all have had the honour, except him, to be interred in niches, in the crypt, under the great altar. Many of the